RTI Prophet Single Shot Tray?

[ClarkT]

Alright you two (BigTinBoat, ClarkT),

Here's what I fixed and changed since my last post:

- The height of the base tray so, that its top plane just barely passes the center of the barrel as was suggested by BigTin.

- A modular trough system for calibers up to 7,62 mm, including the 7,62 caliber respectively. The .177 / 4,5mm, .22 / 5,5mm and the .25 / 6,35 mm calibers have their own, individual troughs now, which can be replaced for switching barrels or otherwise calibers of the gun at will

You could probably or rather most likely also fit a .45 ACP / .45 LC projectile into the base trough of the tray; that's of course, if the RTI company even makes a .45 cal. barrel for the Prophet PCP.

So, here are the images:

... and of course the .STL files:

View attachment RTI_Prophet_Trays_STLfiles.1625248863.zip



And that's pretty much it, I hope the prints are going to turn out well and that all of the dimensions are going to check out. I'd also like to see the prints when you're done printing and if the need be, sandpapering or otherwise perfecting them out.

Oh and one more thing... If you're ever going to shoot .30 cal and of course if you'd like to, you can give these pellets, that I've designed a go. You're just going to have to print them first, haha. If I'd have a printer and a .30 cal PCP or a springer (i.e. Hatsan 130S/ 135 in 7,62 mm), I'd do it myself, but since I don't have any of these two things, I must rely on others for results. I'm just really curious about what their performance is going to be; that was basically the only driving force behind the reason why I made these in the first place. 

Link to the thread: https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/i-designed-a-3d-model-of-a-30-caliber-pellet-a-tester-needed/?referrer=1

So once again, I'd be thankful for the images of the prints and naturally I really hope those will turn out alright for you.



Have a good one,

- Triglav

I like it a lot! I’ll post up some pics when I can. 

 

[PNW1985]

Thank you for sharing the file. For my particular gun, Prophet Performance II, the fit was a tad loose. I used a piece of string trimmer line, 5/32” to be exact, to secure the fit. I drilled a small hole, super glued the trimmer line in, and sanded until it was a tight fit. This is just what I was looking for. Thanks again. Sorry for not doing it justice, I hit the single shot tray with my file and sand paper and buggered it up a bit.

 

[Triglav]

Thank you for sharing the file. For my particular gun, Prophet Performance II, the fit was a tad loose. I used a piece of string trimmer line, 5/32” to be exact, to secure the fit. I drilled a small hole, super glued the trimmer line in, and sanded until it was a tight fit. This is just what I was looking for. Thanks again. Sorry for not doing it justice, I hit the single shot tray with my file and sand paper and buggered it up a bit. View attachment 343301View attachment 343302View attachment 343303View attachment 343305View attachment 343306

No problem, THANK YOU for the feedback. I was really surprised to see someone actually post the images of how my design turned out in practical terms. From my experience, people here generally just casually asked for a specific item/part to be made into an .STL file and once I've made the thing, they just said thanks or not even that, and never bothered to even remotely consider posting some images of the printed item, for folks here to be able to see, just how it turned out, or to give me some additional feedback on what potentially went wrong during the printing process or therefore after, in terms of construction or dimensions of the model. I'm really happy for you and glad to see that it works like it should now; 3D printed parts usually require additional tampering, or otherwise tinkering with them. If you've got your printer really, almost ridiculously well calibrated, then I guess there shouldn't be any issues with the printed model. However, if the slicing parameters weren't set in accordance with the design of the model, then there could be issues.

I'd personally suggest to just about anyone, set on printing one of my design, to slice with 100% infill density, 0.25mm layer height and to set the printing speed to 35 mm/s. I'd also use a raft for better build plate adhesion.

By the way, last year I also printed a single shot tray. It was for my Artemis SR900, which is a spring-piston driven, repeating sidelever. Mine's in .177, with no iron sights and with a Gamo scope fitted on it. The thing came with three, 9-shot magazines. Although the build quality on the thing could've been better, it's a remarkably fun springer, but not a particularly accurate one... Kind of like the 1st generation Gamo 10X.

Once again, I'd like to thank you for posting the images and sharing this with the world.

 

[PNW1985]

No problem, THANK YOU for the feedback. I was really surprised to see someone actually post the images of how my design turned out in practical terms. From my experience, people here generally just casually asked for a specific item/part to be made into an .STL file and once I've made the thing, they just said thanks or not even that, and never bothered to even remotely consider posting some images of the printed item, for folks here to be able to see, just how it turned out, or to give me some additional feedback on what potentially went wrong during the printing process or therefore after, in terms of construction or dimensions of the model. I'm really happy for you and glad to see that it works like it should now; 3D printed parts usually require additional tampering, or otherwise tinkering with them. If you've got your printer really, almost ridiculously well calibrated, then I guess there shouldn't be any issues with the printed model. However, if the slicing parameters weren't set in accordance with the design of the model, then there could be issues.

I'd personally suggest to just about anyone, set on printing one of my design, to slice with 100% infill density, 0.25mm layer height and to set the printing speed to 35 mm/s. I'd also use a raft for better build plate adhesion.

By the way, last year I also printed a single shot tray. It was for my Artemis SR900, which is a spring-piston driven, repeating sidelever. Mine's in .177, with no iron sights and with a Gamo scope fitted on it. The thing came with three, 9-shot magazines. Although the build quality on the thing could've been better, it's a remarkably fun springer, but not a particularly accurate one... Kind of like the 1st generation Gamo 10X.

Once again, I'd like to thank you for posting the images and sharing this with the world.

I’m very new, less than 1 month, into 3D printing. This is the very 1st practical item I have printed outside of Guitar picks. I used 20% infill, .2mm height and I have no clue on printer speed. Anyhow, I’m sure my printer is no where near calibrated. I’m still learning it. I’m sure your specs are spot on. .75mm was all the more I needed on the trimmer line shim. Thank you again for your contribution! You are much appreciated!

 

[Triglav]

I’m very new, less than 1 month, into 3D printing. This is the very 1st practical item I have printed outside of Guitar picks. I used 20% infill, .2mm height and I have no clue on printer speed. Anyhow, I’m sure my printer is no where near calibrated. I’m still learning it. I’m sure your specs are spot on. .75mm was all the more I needed on the trimmer line shim. Thank you again for your contribution! You are much appreciated!

Thanks!
If you need anything else, you can contact me anytime.

 

[PNW1985]

Thanks!
If you need anything else, you can contact me anytime.

Your modular RTI single shot tray is printing as we type. I adjusted my settings to match your recommendation. Stay tuned. I’ll post more pictures once done. I’m trying to find a 2 slot spare magazine holder for my Uragan compact. I can’t find one anywhere. Maybe you’d be interested in making a design? Do you have PayPal. I’d like to contribute to your general fund so you can keep helping like this.

 

[PNW1985]

Here are a few pictures of the modular system. I’m assuming the smallest is the .177, then the .22, then the .25? I tried using the middle size for the .22 and it was too small. The largest size was just right. I put a small dab of super glue on the insert to hold it in place and it was a nice press fit in. I did have to do a small amount of sanding to get it just right. Using your recommended settings definitely made it a good and tight fit. Thank you for that. Since I only have a .22, I may just print the model designed up to .25 again with you specific settings. The modular design is very cool and would be useful if I had different caliber barrels. Nice work sir, nice work!

*By the way. With a small bit of prying, the inserts come right out, even with a dab of super glue.

 

[Triglav]

Your modular RTI single shot tray is printing as we type. I adjusted my settings to match your recommendation. Stay tuned. I’ll post more pictures once done. I’m trying to find a 2 slot spare magazine holder for my Uragan compact. I can’t find one anywhere. Maybe you’d be interested in making a design? Do you have PayPal. I’d like to contribute to your general fund so you can keep helping like this.

From my experience with printing, it is most of the time better to have a bit higher infill density, so that the subsequent layers have a greater adhesion surface to stick on. 0.2mm - 0.25mm layer height should suffice for objects of technical nature; Lower the layer height is going to be, more smooth the surfaces of the print are going to appear and thus of better quality (better looking that is). Although, I haven't exactly noticed that layer height would in some form or way affect the solidity, or otherwise the hardness of the object. That has more to do with nozzle and buildplate temperatures, as well as with the material itself, rather than with any of the "quality" settings in the slicer. I've personally only dealt with the PLA material and have always set the buildplate temperature to either 50 or 55 degrees Celsius, while having the nozzle temperature set a bit above average, which is around 200-205 'C, at 215'C. Most folks would assume that 215'C is still around the norm for PLA, but I'd say it all depends on the material properties of the PLA, belonging to a specific lot of the manufacturer. In short, I'd advise and insist on experimenting with the specific material you got, rather than just following the manufacturers recommendations, as those aren't always correct in regard to printing temperatures. Although you may get, for instance, two rolls of PLA from the same manufacturer, it's likely that they'll be from different lots, which will result in the density of these two rolls being different, and that will lead to different print qualities - over/under extrusions. Adjust the slicer settings to the specific roll of filament, that's all I'm saying. After all, test prints should tell you all about the filament.

Now, about the magazine holder... To design it, I will need external dimensions of the magazine (width, height and length), and a basic paper/paint drawing of how it should look like... If you'd like me to embellish the model, in a way of adding some serrations or lightening cuts or otherwise embossing/imprinting some text, I can do that, just include what you'd like and where exactly would you like that to be, in the drawing. Btw, I can make any amount of slots for the mags, if you'd like two, then I'll make two. I'll get to designing the holder once I finish setting up the new computer, I'm currently in a migratory stage of transfering all of the data from the salvaged hard drive to the new computer, because the old PC finally bit the dust, after 13 years of use. I reckon it got stuck on some boot-loop, caused by a short-circuit in the power supply lead, that rendered the entire system inoperable... I've tried clearing BIOS, connecting it to an exteranal power, replacing the EEPROM battery, re-wiring the circuitry for RAM and ultimately gave up on the thing... After all it's been through a lot in these last 10+ years.

Contributions are always nice and I'll gladly accept any. I'll send you the link, once I find the damn username and password for it, I haven't used the thing in years.

 

[Triglav]

Here are a few pictures of the modular system. I’m assuming the smallest is the .177, then the .22, then the .25? I tried using the middle size for the .22 and it was too small. The largest size was just right. I put a small dab of super glue on the insert to hold it in place and it was a nice press fit in. I did have to do a small amount of sanding to get it just right. Using your recommended settings definitely made it a good and tight fit. Thank you for that. Since I only have a .22, I may just print the model designed up to .25 again with you specific settings. The modular design is very cool and would be useful if I had different caliber barrels. Nice work sir, nice work!

*By the way. With a small bit of prying, the inserts come right out, even with a dab of super glue.View attachment 343358View attachment 343359View attachment 343360View attachment 343361View attachment 343363View attachment 343364

Correct. The smallest trough is for .177, then the middle one is for .22 and then .25
It seems you're dealing with a common issue of even the best 3D printers, which is over-extrusion. If the insert for .25 caliber slugs fit your .22 pellet, then that's certainly over-extrusion. Your 3D printer needs calibrating. I'd suggest you to download a couple of free dimensions testing cubes from Thingyverse and then, once your done printing them, measure these printed cubes with a calipher and inspect by how much is your 3D printer overextruding them. And of course, don't forget to inspect the parameters - t.i. dimensions of the 3D models (either .STP/.STL) of these cubes.

By the way, calibration can be tricky! It can lead to a huge amount of frustration I've heard. Which 3D printer do you have? Perhaps an Ender?

Here's the link to one of these testing cubes: (this one has a side width of 20mm, and of course it's a cube, all sides are the same).

XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube by iDig3Dprinting

This is a simple calibration test cube for your 3D printer with X, Y & Z written on the axis. To further calibrate your 3D printer print one out and you can then measure this models dimensions against the expected dimensions. Once this is done you are able, if your 3D printer allows it, to...

www.thingiverse.com

Also, how much power does this Prophet II generate in .22 caliber?
The funny thing about the RTI airguns is that they've never really caught on in my country, even though they're literally made here in Slovenia.
Airgunners in my country, including myself, still cling on to more primitive airguns, the springers are the way to go here. I only have springers -break barrels and an underlever, no PCPs or even gas-piston break barrels, just good ol' springers.

 

[PNW1985]

I will get my calipers on the magazines sometime soon. Thank you for the willingness to help me in designing the mag holder. Right now, the real issue is looking for a place to mount it. Once I establish that, I’ll do some measurements.

I’ve had a few springers in the past, but they usually end up staying in my safe. I’ve had a HW35e, Walther LVG, Diana 34p, BAM B40 .22 and a TX200. All were fine guns, but never took a liking to the springer over the pcp.

The RTI Prophet Performance II is producing, as tuned right now, about 36 foot pounds. I can tune it up to get over 60 foot pounds with heavier pellets. They are fine rifles. The Prophet II has been a bit problematic, but RTI has been very kind in helping me remedy the problems. Great company with awesome customer service.

I’ll print the calibration block to see what I come up with. Thanks for the advice. I have an Ender 3 Pro with Marlin 2.1.2 firmware.

 

[PNW1985]

Calibration block came in at 19.98mmX 20.1mm. I’m not sure how accurate I can get this thing. Are those acceptable tolerances?

 

[Triglav]

I think you've already got the right place to mount your holder whether you believe it or not; There's a "hidden" piece of mounting equipment on this rifle... there are two dovetails on both sides of the rifle, situated ahead of the trigger and just beyond the pressure gauges and the valve... I've marked the dovetails with a red rectangle and then, with a green box how the magazine holder could look, being mounted on the dovetail. The mag holder isn't a vital part of the gun and therefore the holder itself can have a dovetail adapter cut into it, for mounting on either side of the gun's dovetail rail. Once again, when you'll have the dimensions of the mags in hand, then I can start modeling the holder.

You can also decide to mount the mag holder just behind the bipod on the bottom rail and from there on out, you could position the mag holder in such a way, that it'd be facing you, making it really easy to get the magazines out.

Sure, PCPs are fine, but for me there's nothing in the world that'd beat a classic springer... Ease of use is where it's at, no need for pumping it up, or otherwise carrying a 200+ bar pressure hand-pump in the field. I've got the following springers: Gamo Big Cat 1000-E (just recently done a review on it, here on AGN), Gamo Black Bear, Hatsan mod. 125, Artemis SR900, Magtech AR 600... I used to have a Cometa 300 too and a QB-57 (wood edition). The Cometa blew up, like literally exploded some 4-5 years ago.

Enders are generally OK printers, don't know about the firmware, but this printer model is regarded as a good one in general. As for the calibration, the X and either the Y or Z axis seem to be perfectly zeroed, although I don't know which of these two, whether it's the Y or the Z axis that the printer is over extruding toward, or well, in which direction along one of these axis the nozzle is going too much. If the nozzle lacks, or otherwise exceeds some 0.03-0.05mm it's not a big deal at all, because the hundreds of a millimeter don't really play a role in calibration, however, the tenths of a mill. do. So with that having been said, the X and the Y or Z (one of these two) are OK, perfectly fine. It is probably the Z axis that is problematic and in which direction the nozzle is over-extruding. You should try another test case - a testing model, that tests the Z axis explicitly. That way you'll know for certain that it's not the Z or the more likely Y axis that's problematic.

What about the bed? is it leveled?

 

[Triglav]

Calibration block came in at 19.98mmX 20.1mm. I’m not sure how accurate I can get this thing. Are those acceptable tolerances?

Sorry, I think I forgot to link the last reply to your post. The reply is about the tolerances and the magazine holder placement. It's the post right above this one. Btw, Here's how I imagined you could attach the holder to the gun...

 

[JungleShooter]

I'm late to the RTI single shot tray party, I guess.


Thank you, Triglav, for being so kind of designing and sharing the STL file with us!!
Link: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/rti-prophet-single-shot-tray.1029655/post-1036117
I like that this is a tray that allow for quick loading, rather than the "single shot loader" (which has it's own advantages for different shooting scenarios).


I have never dealt with 3D and STL, I would basically take the file to some shop that has a 3D printer and pay them to print it for me.
So, here's my QUESTION: Did I understand this correctly that the file has a base and then 3 different inserts for the calibers, so in total 4 parts?

Thanks again,

Matthias

 

[Triglav]

I'm late to the RTI single shot tray party, I guess.


Thank you, Triglav, for being so kind of designing and sharing the STL file with us!!
Link: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/rti-prophet-single-shot-tray.1029655/post-1036117
I like that this is a tray that allow for quick loading, rather than the "single shot loader" (which has it's own advantages for different shooting scenarios).


I have never dealt with 3D and STL, I would basically take the file to some shop that has a 3D printer and pay them to print it for me.
So, here's my QUESTION: Did I understand this correctly that the file has a base and then 3 different inserts for the calibers, so in total 4 parts?

Thanks again,

Matthias

You're welcome.
Yes, that is correct. The base tray and three troughs/inserts.

 

[JungleShooter]

Thank you for your quick reply!