RTI RTI Mora, I want MORE-My Mora II wish list

I have said if I were buying an air rifle today, it would be the Mora. Truth be told, I want more from a gun that started out at $2,000 but is now closer to $2,500.

Here's what I'd like to see in the Mora II:

-Make the optic rail slide fore and aft up to the magazine to make optic location more customizable and accommodating of night optics like the FX Impact M4

-Make the height of the optic rail fully adjustable so those who choose can remove the plastic cheekpiece and use a piece of self adhesive moleskin so I can get the scope lower and not be forced to use high rings.

-Put the safety back near the trigger like the Prophet was. While I, and many others do not use the safety, some do. Not sure what the logic was of moving it to the rear of the gun.

-Fix the self detaching and frequently lost butt pad. Really? This has been an issue since the P3.

-Cut the weight by a pound

*A general note since the barrels interchange: stop neglecting the .177 and .30. Make a standard length .177 instead of the 500mm, that is properly twisted to shoot heavy projectile, and properly twist the .30.
You know the power of these guns is made to shoot heavy projectiles. You can barely get them to shoot standard weight projectiles at normal pellet speeds (880-910 fps). Make the .177 and .30 barrels to match the gun, and make them with the new transfer port.
 
Well said, and as a lefty if it wasn't for FX's hatred for us lefty's I would have probably gone with an FX Impact M4 when I was buying the Mora. I'd like to add some of my critiques and suggestions as well.

- Scope Rail, it would be pretty slick to add what the Impact M4 has with the ability to move back and forth instead of this adjustable rail they have now. I tried to use it to move the scope to the zero but when the MLOK shield broke off it fell on the scope and moved it making the zero useless. I've since just left it flat in case that happens again so I can just loosen the screws and 're-flatten' it. In my .25 mora I personally haven't needed to shoot super long distances but maybe it's useful for the high calibers.

- The safety is definitely in a pretty painful spot. If there was a safety by the trigger as well that would be super handy. I love the safety on my AirMaks Katran, especially being able to move it to the right side so my left thumb can use it. I also don't like the idea that I have to cock the rifle in order to engage the safety. With how light the trigger is, it scares me. It's also super cumbersome to just plain use. I'd like to see a trigger safety that I can engage before cocking the rifle. Currently, as a lefty, I have to really hold the gun in an awkward way to cock the rifle, leave the handle in the open position, engage the safety, then push the handle forward. Make it so I don't have to move my left hand towards the back, it can stay be the handle/trigger. If a safety is cumbersome to use and takes more than half a second to engage people won't use it. If they want to keep the idea that they can drop the gun from wherever and it won't fire because they've effectively blocked/locked the hammer, that's fine and cool but it needs a simpler safety as well.

- Buttpad suckkkss. Definitely needs a way to attach to the gun properly. I've lost it a handful of times and had to retrace my steps. The hammer spring is rarely adjusted anyways. It's OK to make it take a few steps to detach/reattach.

- Something needs to be redone about the barrel plug/nut. Currently I've got to either take off the scope rail or the bottle if I want to remove that plug, which I want on. Plus, it gets close to the body of the rifle and I've since marred it up a little tightening that nut. Make it thicker or something, it's a bit on the thin side for a wrench to grab onto securely.

- Handle can be shortened at the end as well. It covers the gauge and makes it a little annoying to see the gauge.

- The M-Lok holes on the body of the gun just below the scope rail, that should be made to be in-line with the barrel. The cut outs can probably be reordered so the last one is on the bottom to make space for this feature. That way we can put a little red dot on there for the close shots instead of messing with a stupidly large scope.

- The thing that I can't remember the name of that controls how long the plenum is open for, it can be redesigned to be less prone to unwanted adjustment. The three pronged handle can be bumped and turned. Also, it's impossible to remember its position, something like a sharpie is needed to mark its position so you can follow it when you're tuning the gun but after that if it gets rubbed off while cleaning and forgotten, you'll have no idea if it's still in the position you wanted or not.

- Still haven't really seen any how-to's or guides on how to fix a leak with these amazing little holes for detecting leaks. Sure they're great to have, but like, what do I do if I have a leak? When I had to take apart the gun so I could replace the lower half of the body where the mlok shield attaches, oh my god did it take me forever to figure out how the gun was put together.

-MLok shield should attach to the body of the gun better/more securely. I'm thinking something like how the Epic 2 has three screws that attach to the trigger guard or whatever.
 
As I read this thread, I think this would address one of the key points of contention. I wonder, should I focus this project? Here’s a picture of a prototype adjustable shoulder pad for the Mora.
I’ve been working with the idea for a couple of days. I found myself needing a break from my Montster magazine projects. Taking a small break from magazine designing to work on this.
Now not to get crazy! It’s only white and red 3D printed because I use odd colors for prototypes to make identifying them quick and easy.

IMG_3432.jpeg
 
As I read this thread, I think this would address one of the key points of contention. I wonder, should I focus this project? Here’s a picture of a prototype adjustable shoulder pad for the Mora.
I’ve been working with the idea for a couple of days. I found myself needing a break from my Montster magazine projects. Taking a small break from magazine designing to work on this.
Now not to get crazy! It’s only white and red 3D printed because I use odd colors for prototypes to make identifying them quick and easy.

View attachment 568115
I've been thinking about designing something like that myself, seems pretty good from a glance. Let me know if you'd like a tester or someone to give their thoughts on it, I've got a 3d printer myself and some bolts/nuts. I'd be happy to help