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HW/Weihrauch Ring modification
- Thread starter .20calguy
- Start date
I'm trying to do math to figure out how much angle you need to attain your zero. For that I'll need you to answer the questions I posted before. Also what is your scopes elevation range? 30mm tube? I can figure this out but I need this information to help. GI/GO. Last night I was shooting center of a 10" plate at 500 yards with new box stock rifle, a simple Nikon scope and Walmart ammo. I got this covered if you work with me.
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Using JSB .20cal, 13.73gr, 728fps.
When zeroed at 75yards, the scope is at its last click of up.
My two ranges are 30 and 75. Ideally I think it would be optically centerd between the those adjustment ranges.
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I need the measurement in inches between POA I'm assuming the bullseye and the POI. I can't tell by looking at the target. Pellet and velocity. Approximate scope height or what rings were used.
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How do we know it’s always the gun and never the scope rings? Does anyone know what the tolerances are on scope rings? For scope rings placed 4” apart a height difference of .0233 inches will result in a 20 moa shift. This could be a result of loose tolerances like +\- .010 and +\- 1/2 degree. The rings may be twisted slightly or the hole could have a little angle on it and the height may be off on one ring. The odds are that if it was a ring problem it would come from “tolerance stacking”. Not one dimension way off but maybe all the dimensions off a little which adds up.
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I have been busy, but I finally got to spend some time with the new 97K this Sunday evening.
I measured 1.65 inches from the bore to scope, C to C.
The scope is temporarily an Athelon Helos 6x24x50 ffp moa. The Element Helix 6x24x50 ffp moa, is on backorder.
The rings are SportsMatch two piece, High 30mm.
The group measured 5.25 inches drop C to C, at thirty yards, with a centered scope.
I have a good set of eyes for seeing angles etc, and I do in fact see barrel droop in this 97K.
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You're right. Rings could be at fault in some cases. Theres ways to check that. On a dovetail gun it's pretty easily checked. Just slide the rings together and check for a difference in height or offset. A difference of 0.023" would be glaringly obvious.
Theres also scope mounting kits like this one that have alignment checking bars. Scope mounting is something that is not taken very seriously by most shooters. There's certainly a right way and many degrees of wrong ways of doing it. I have the equipment and knowledge to lap rings the old fashioned way but typically the modern machining and production methods of quality rings generally makes it unnecessary. Quality being the key word. Cheap Chinese junk aren't worth using on any decent rifle.
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Thanks I still need the distance between the Point of aim which I'm assuming was the bullseye and the point of impact on the 30 yard target you posted earlier.
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Sorry my phone died all the info should be up dated on my last post. It was 5.25 inches C to C on that target, at 30 yards.
Thanks
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Here's your zeros charted out for actual BC for 13.73 Exacts.
Purple 20 yards
Red 30 yards
Blue 40 yards
Green 50 yards
I'm not sure what purpose you're using this rifle for but if you zero at 40 or 50 yards you'll have to hold under inside of those zeros. I've personally botched a few close shots because I calculated the hold under wrong. I've found it easier to only have hold over to learn.
Since the gun doesn't have barrel droop to should be able to zero any decent scope at 50 yards with standard rings. The Sportsmatch rings in the photo are excellent. They're all I use on my airguns and some European rimfire rifles.
The scope in the picture isn't an Element Helix. I found that when I tried to find the stats on the Helix. I use 1" Hawke scopes on all my airguns and I have been able to zero at 50 yards without a problem. I only zero at 50 when shooting groups at 50. Which is rare. I typically zero at 25 or 30 yards and use the reticle to avoid the hold under confusion if a target of opportunity suddenly appears inside my zero. A 30mm scope should give you more adjustment than my 1" scopes. I've been able to reliably shoot all my Airmax scoped air rifles out to 100 yards using the reticle. You should have no problem with the Element Helix
HTH
Ron
Purple 20 yards
Red 30 yards
Blue 40 yards
Green 50 yards
I'm not sure what purpose you're using this rifle for but if you zero at 40 or 50 yards you'll have to hold under inside of those zeros. I've personally botched a few close shots because I calculated the hold under wrong. I've found it easier to only have hold over to learn.
Since the gun doesn't have barrel droop to should be able to zero any decent scope at 50 yards with standard rings. The Sportsmatch rings in the photo are excellent. They're all I use on my airguns and some European rimfire rifles.
The scope in the picture isn't an Element Helix. I found that when I tried to find the stats on the Helix. I use 1" Hawke scopes on all my airguns and I have been able to zero at 50 yards without a problem. I only zero at 50 when shooting groups at 50. Which is rare. I typically zero at 25 or 30 yards and use the reticle to avoid the hold under confusion if a target of opportunity suddenly appears inside my zero. A 30mm scope should give you more adjustment than my 1" scopes. I've been able to reliably shoot all my Airmax scoped air rifles out to 100 yards using the reticle. You should have no problem with the Element Helix
HTH
Ron
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Thanks for the effort!
I hope there was some satisfaction in that nice piece of work..
I am only plinking at the moment.
I have two back stops in the yard, one at 30 and 75 yards. I shoot some spinners, hanging med bottles, bottle caps, shot shell hulls, wire nuts, empty C02 carts. Etc.
The plan is to be able to quickly dial those distances without being close to the scope adjusment ends.
The situation with the current set up, zeroed at 75 yards, is that I'm using the last click of up..
I'm not to fond of that idea with a springer pounding on it.
Thanks Harold
I hope there was some satisfaction in that nice piece of work..
I am only plinking at the moment.
I have two back stops in the yard, one at 30 and 75 yards. I shoot some spinners, hanging med bottles, bottle caps, shot shell hulls, wire nuts, empty C02 carts. Etc.
The plan is to be able to quickly dial those distances without being close to the scope adjusment ends.
The situation with the current set up, zeroed at 75 yards, is that I'm using the last click of up..
I'm not to fond of that idea with a springer pounding on it.
Thanks Harold
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10 yards huh? I've been centering at 18 yards. I guess 10 yards will give you a little more elevation adjustment and more elevation spring tension. See that's why I follow these posts, to learn from the experts.
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You're welcome. A 75 yard zero isn't really practical for a 700 fps rifle. The trajectory falls off really quickly out there. It's naturally going to take a lot of adjustment. I've never tried zeroing any of my Weihrauchs past 50 yards. Most of my guns are 700 fps or better and the 50 yard zero takes a lot of my adjustment. I don't like running the guns that close to maxed out. That's why I usually zero at 25 or 30 yards. You're absolutely right not to like running on the ends of adjustment. Springers are tough on scopes and running them close to maxed out is probably what kills most springer scopes.
If you want to zero that far out I'd recommend looking into a canted mount like this.
Anschutz 1761 Scope Base
Following the success of our CZ455 and 457 scope bases, it only made sense for us to begin to roll out bases for Anschutz rifles. This design, made from a single piece of T7075 aluminum and machined in house on our Haas VF4SS 4 axis machining center is designed to slide onto the dovetail and [...]
www.area419.com I try to adjust to a ten yard optical center. Some guns can't quite make it without the bend becoming noticeable. If I can get the barrel level I'm still ahead of the game. Side to side drift is even a bigger PITA
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I have been shooting the HW 30 out there at 75 yards and hitting Crazy Eights, but I use the bottom marker on the crosshair at a little over 4X. With the scope zeroed dead on at 30.
The greatest challenge is cant, followed by wind. Lol
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Wont work with all scopes (saddle may contact) but BKL does have a 100 moa at 100 yards mount
BKL-260D7-MB
Certainly will Not move on a springer.
John
BKL-260D7-MB
Certainly will Not move on a springer.
John
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@.20calguy @John "spysir" Blount - i have this scope mount matched to a Hawke Airmax 2-7x32 or the Airmax 4-12x40 and have had great success on all of my springers.
BKL-260 Drop Compensated - 200 Series 1'' Scope Mounts - BKLTech.com
Model 260 is the strongest of the BKL scope mounts. With a sturdy 4 inches of clamp length and 6 dovetail clamp screws, this unitized mount is hard to beat. Model 260 is perfect for magnum airguns and semi-auto rimfire actions.
www.bkltech.com
I love shooting my little 177 Hw30s long distance. I love hitting beer cans at 100 with my scoped 30. My peep sighted 30 is limited to about 50 yards due to too much post blocking the target. With 7-8 grain pellets, wind is your greatest enemy. Cant errors can be minimized with practicing good technique. Also a trick to minimize cant is to level the target hanger and to can use that to level the gun.
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Allright, back to the subject of the modified "West Hunter" rings.
I haven't drilled the stop pin, but I figured it was test time.
No rear ring measrments, I just picked an angle Like cooking without a recepie.
Lol
Testing tomorrow starting with a centered scope.
I haven't drilled the stop pin, but I figured it was test time.
No rear ring measrments, I just picked an angle Like cooking without a recepie.
Lol
Testing tomorrow starting with a centered scope.
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