Beeman Repair video for Diana 6 recoilless air pistol

Hello,
Does anyone know if there is a repair video for the Diana 6 recoilless air pistol? One that shows how to take it apart and put it back together. I want to repair mine myself since I have new seals and springs. I didn't realize that getting information on how to take the gun apart would be -- next to impossible. Or maybe I should say impossible. Thank you for any help.
 
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i started watching the first video that popped up just to see what would come up and it was walnut and steel and than turned it off soon after
the guy was using channel lock pliers on the side gear caps what bloody nonsense

so, you have a model 6 but which one the model 6 or the 6g or 6m
were did you get the seals from and what color i they red ones can be a problem if oversize
all the trigger parts need to come off and bag them and understand the trigger spring placement
rear sight needs to come off and bag that parts are hard to find
the barrel needs to come off and the ling pin on the model 6 will come out easily but the 6g-6m pin has knurling at the center of the pin and they can be a SOB to drive out and before reassembly chuck it up in a drill and remove some of the knurling
with the barrel off and link pin removed you can take out the cocking arm
now you are down to the tube and guts and the rear cap and side caps
both the rear and side caps need to be protected re removal otherwise it will look like an uncaring pistol smith worked on it
leather belt copper sheets have all been used
the rear cap can be removed and everything inside will stay in place
but with the cap off you need to place a clamp on the rear piston and put 1-2 mm of compression on the rear piston not the tube but the piston and now the side caps can be addressed
you can see this is not easy the first time you need to know the tricks and have the tools and without that you will end up with a box of parts

there is a firm philosophy DO NO HARM TO THE PATIENT
you are on the deep end of the pool those instructions i have written are the start and yes i have done many a model 6 for myself
 
and the video would be fine if he knew what he was doing and to use his ham-fisted approach will do what for the first timer

oh i have no friends period and if you don't like my punctuation who cares

i try to help others and that is all..............................................................................................................................................................................
 
Look here....no video.


Feinwerk
 
Hello,
Does anyone know if there is a repair video for the Diana 6 recoilless air pistol? One that shows how to take it apart and put it back together. I want to repair mine myself since I have new seals and springs. I didn't realize that getting information on how to take the gun apart would be -- next to impossible. Or maybe I should say impossible. Thank you for any help.
david slade works on Giss systems , he is in TN.
 
I looked and found it in minutes.
I'm not sure what happened. Why it wasn't coming up on my computer. Maybe it did and I just didn't see it. I downloaded several videos of the Diana 6. But when I went to look at them. They didn't show what I wanted.
I did see your explanation on another forum before I sent this post. Unfortunately, for me I have to see it being done. Just text or even a phone call won't work for me. It would be like trying to explain to you, how to make and fit a revolver cylinder, from scratch, to a single action frame. Even if you had a lathe, mill, surface grinder, etc. and knew how to use them. I pretty sure you or anybody else would have trouble understanding how to do it. Anyway, with the two videos and your explanation I probably can do it now. I got the parts from Pyramid Air a few years ago. Three seals came with the rebuild parts. Two of the seals with a hole in the middle are red and the third one without a hole is brown. The two red ones are made in the US and the brown one is made in Germany. Mine looks like the pic below with plastic grips.
Diana 6.jpg
Thanks for the help.
PS: I still don't know how to use this site since it was redone. I was trying to thank everyone that helped me. Not sure how it actually came out.
 
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so, you have a model 6M and great care needs to be made that the plastic barrel cover is not damaged there are none
you have the mechanical skills i see, so you are ahead of the game
did you get the seal from Air Rifle Headquarter if so, i had the misfortune of using them once and they were oversize and a nightmare
i use only blue factory seals
and for those who will say just turn them down, without a lathe you can't but i guess you can

here is my thought

a normal springer you can load the piston and test and take it out size the seal
but on Giss system guns the one thing you don't want to do is screw around with the front piston, you want to load it ONCE and not several time
the video will get you through the rebuild but some of the techniques will not help you at all
to rebuild a Giss System gun you need to be not in any hurry take your time
the cleaning will take as long as 3 to 4 days because of the soaking it will take to clean the bottom of the tube
well that is enough but i am here if you need help
you can make PB parts and or fit them i can't but i can rebuild a model 6

mike in Washington state
 
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i started watching the first video that popped up just to see what would come up and it was walnut and steel and than turned it off soon after
the guy was using channel lock pliers on the side gear caps what bloody nonsense


so, you have a model 6 but which one the model 6 or the 6g or 6m
were did you get the seals from and what color i they red ones can be a problem if oversize
all the trigger parts need to come off and bag them and understand the trigger spring placement
rear sight needs to come off and bag that parts are hard to find
the barrel needs to come off and the ling pin on the model 6 will come out easily but the 6g-6m pin has knurling at the center of the pin and they can be a SOB to drive out and before reassembly chuck it up in a drill and remove some of the knurling
with the barrel off and link pin removed you can take out the cocking arm
now you are down to the tube and guts and the rear cap and side caps
both the rear and side caps need to be protected re removal otherwise it will look like an uncaring pistol smith worked on it
leather belt copper sheets have all been used
the rear cap can be removed and everything inside will stay in place
but with the cap off you need to place a clamp on the rear piston and put 1-2 mm of compression on the rear piston not the tube but the piston and now the side caps can be addressed
you can see this is not easy the first time you need to know the tricks and have the tools and without that you will end up with a box of parts

there is a firm philosophy DO NO HARM TO THE PATIENT
you are on the deep end of the pool those instructions i have written are the start and yes i have done many a model 6 for myself
I'm with you. The use of those pliers did nothing but show me that the guy working on that gun was a ham-handed hack. There's no need to bugger up those caps with such brute force methods.

One of the first things I look for when examining one of the Diana Giss pistols is whether or not the gear caps and/or end caps are all marred up. If thy are, I'll usually take a hard pass. After all, if they've buggered up the outside, what might they have done to the inside?
 
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i started watching the first video that popped up just to see what would come up and it was walnut and steel and than turned it off soon after
the guy was using channel lock pliers on the side gear caps what bloody nonsense
I believe he was using smooth jaw Knipex pliers like these. What would you use?
 
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so, you have a model 6M and great care needs to be made that the plastic barrel cover is not damaged there are none
you have the mechanical skills i see, so you are ahead of the game
did you get the seal from Air Rifle Headquarter if so, i had the misfortune of using them once and they were oversize and a nightmare
i use only blue factory seals
and for those who will say just turn them down, without a lathe you can't but i guess you can

here is my thought

a normal springer you can load the piston and test and take it out size the seal
but on Giss system guns the one thing you don't want to do is screw around with the front piston, you want to load it ONCE and not several time
the video will get you through the rebuild but some of the techniques will not help you at all
to rebuild a Giss System gun you need to be not in any hurry take your time
the cleaning will take as long as 3 to 4 days because of the soaking it will take to clean the bottom of the tube
well that is enough but i am here if you need help
you can make PB parts and or fit them i can't but i can rebuild a model 6

mike in Washington state
Thanks Mike,
I can see that this job is going to be very slow. Especially since I've never done it before. My seals, which are red were made in the USA and came from Pyramid Air. Being the right size would be nice, but we'll see. I haven't looked at this gun in several years, it's boxed up and put away. But I'm pretty sure the barrel cover that you have to pull out and turn 180 degrees to cock the gun is metal. I could be wrong. In any case it looks to me that I better not break anything. As far as those gear caps - the way I handle something like that is to get a piece of hardwood, drill a hole in it that is just a tad smaller than the piece to be removed. Then cut the wood in half. Now you have two halves. Use the two halves to put around whatever you're trying to take off. Now you can use whatever you want, a press, vice grips, etc., to squeeze the halves to unscrew the part. I use this method to remove barrels on my single action powder burners. It works for rifles just as well. I also use a little rosen on each half to prevent any slipping. I don't see removing these caps being too difficult. I don't know when I'll get to this gun. But I'll need to be in the mood for it. I'll contact you if I have any questions once I take it apart. There always seems to at least one surprise on projects like this. It was rebuilt once, but not by me. Thanks for the help.
 
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age is your enemy on these old guns, the frond seal will turn into what looks like epoxy and wax.
there is a spacer in the rear cap under what i call the stepped washer and it will take days of soaking to get the washer off the spacer and much time cleaning that up.
the side caps and gears when in place hold the guts in the tube.
the rear cap has several jobs but hold the guts in is not one of them.
the rear cap when in place with the right stepped washer push the rear piston forward .3mm and with the takes the pressure off the gears as now they are a neutral place with the geared pistons.
now the reason i tell you that is when you get the rear cap off you need to loosen the side caps or you could do it before but not take them off because they are holding the guts in
you see if i tell you to loosen the side caps i an afraid you will take them off.
i keep the gears and cap together ever though they should be able to be swapped side to side.
now let's talk rear cap.
they make 3 different size fillers which you will need to get the stepped washer pushed forward and the cap screw hole to line up and they are 2.0-2.5-3.0mm
and you will not know which one is right and the one that is in it will be crap.
i have solution but we can talk about that later.

your wood hole vise will work many have use that method.

details, the rebuilding of a Giss Gun is about the details and the order those detail go.

will the red seals you got be oversize that is an unknown but if they are hard to start in the rear of the tube, they are but sizing them by hand is very hard but is think you have a lathe to chuck them up and resize as needed


enough for now



.
 
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Thanks for all of this information. I am NOT even going to open up my Dianawerks 6M. I will send it to someone to rebuild after I shoot it a bit. Compressorguy sent me a front sight replacement. But my supply of small metric screws to secure the insert is nonexistent. I don't know if it is a 3 or 4 mm? I'm going to depend on a rebuilder, perhaps Mr. Slade. Be Well Pistoleros, Bandito.