I just recieved LCS SK 19, any tips on removing factory moderator. It's on tight, put it in a vise, wood blocks, just spun around. I was wondering about heating existing moderator but am fearful about going about it. Any tips on heating it would be appreciated or any other method.
removal of factory moderator
- Thread starter john8
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Have you tried a leather belt or something like that? I don’t have this gun so wait to hear from others, but in post applications where a vise meets a cylinder it doesn’t work too well. Leather or rubber works good to twist things cylindrical
PM Yo, I think he has 4 of these guns...
PM Yo, I think he has 4 of these guns...
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Hi John, I do not have any words of wisdom, but I bought my 25 caliber from AOA and the moderator was very easy to remove. Not sure what else to say other than when the moderator is the loose, the barrel shroud will loosen up and just start spinning. My moderator did not have any Loctite on it but if you use heat I would be very careful and use a hair dryer first before a heat gun.
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EVERYTHING WAS LOOSE!!! LESS THAN HAND TIGHT ON THIS ONE!!! I THINK A TODDLER COULD UNSCREW. STARTING FIRST WITH THE ENDCAP THEN FAT LDC SLIDES RIGHT OFF. 
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Unscrew the endcap piece FIRST before doing anything! Do NOT touch the shroud just grip the end piece end together with LDC while unscrewing the end pieceLDC comes off first.
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No indication of any LOCKTITE whatsoever. Just that nickel thin end piece unscrews off first. EVERYTHING else free spins that does absolutely NOTHING to help take anything apart if you don't unscrew that end piece off first.
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If it has thread locking compound, you will need heat, and lots of it. I recently bought a HW100 and had to use a propane torch to get it hot enough. Obviously, the materials involved must be considered before applying high heat. The HW moderator is all metal, but even so, I unscrewed the body and removed everything except the base, which was screwed on the muzzle with a locking compound. I applied the heat for maybe 10 seconds at a time until it got hot enough to melt the locking agent. When it reaches that point, it releases quickly and screws right off. Remember, it gets HOT, and you will need something to protect your hands, I used a thick piece of leather. Don't make the mistake of using regular work gloves, you might find them melted on your fingers! If you are dealing with a suppressor that attaches with a plastic base, or that screws onto a plastic shroud adapter, I'm not sure it will release before damaging the material. I expect a tech at AOA or Pyramyd could give you some guidance. But if the parts are metal, sock the heat to it, it will let go.
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Hold off until I go and check my 3 other LCS SK19s at the other house whether any of them have LOCKTITE before putting a torch to yours. The LDC housing and Shroud sure as hell aint metal and I'm not so sure how well it would hold up to a torch.
Just really surprised your end cap doesn't screw off easily.
Just really surprised your end cap doesn't screw off easily.
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Buy a small strap wrench. Good to have for removing anything cylindrical that does not have wrench grooves. For non heat applications obviously. I wish manufacturers would machine wrench grooves into LDC’s for removal with a standard wrench, the way muzzle brakes and flash hiders are machined in powder guns since those have to be tightened to certain specs.
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After looking at Yo's pics, I agree, I would be afraid to apply open-flame heat to that stuff. Once you remove the end cap, and slide the body off, you might get enough purchase on the baffle to unscrew it. I don't know how the barrel is attached to the receiver, but you might want to remove the barrel and slide the shroud off, then you can hold the barrel securely in a padded vice. If there is thread locking compound attached, hopefully it is of medium strength, which should allow removal without heat.
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I finial got it off, it looks like somebody used a whole tube of red Loctite on it, vise, wood, leather and heat did the trick. STO moderator took it down to 76db. I think the hammerless design plays a part of my perception of the noise, no hammer and spring ping resonance.
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