Redwolf issues - thoughts?

So, basically all you are really saying is that you NEED a "smart" charger made for LiPo batteries?

I can understand that. Then again, I will probably never own a $3500+ airgun... (heavy sigh) (smile)
BackStop, it’s possible to own a RedWolf if you’re willing and able to follow my advice lol!!
The hardest part for me was deciding to continue driving an old Honda Civic until it dies instead of having a new vehicle and payments.
So if you already drive an older vehicle you owe yourself a RedWolf the way I see it!
And I also sold my .25 Crown to soften the blow, so I pretty much had to get a RedWolf after sacrificing the Crown right?
I’m also not married anymore so there’s that…😊
 
Actually that is wrong. It is 3 cells in series, assuming it has proper control board and balances discharge, each cell is 3.933333 volts at 11.8. That is too high a voltage for storage and not using for a few days. Best voltage for storage, and not using it for two days is storage for a lipo, is between 3.6 and 3.8 volts per cell. Lipos are like a needy spouse, better take care of them or you will be divorced.
Do you have a charger to recommend?

Smitty
 
Do you have a charger to recommend?

Smitty
Unfortunately not. When I started using rechargeables hard over 10 years ago, I just did a lot of research on a couple RC forums and the candlepowerforum (flashlight forum). The one I got is no longer made, and has never given me a bit of trouble. I don't even know if the manufacturer of mine still makes good and reliable chargers, only that they are still making chargers. Nice thing about a real battery charger, there is no chemistry battery that you can't charge with the correct voltage/charge curve and cutoff.
 
Do you have a charger to recommend?

Smitty
I do!
This 4 button charger will do everything you need and then some, and will not break the bank.
It is what I use.
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BackStop, it’s possible to own a RedWolf if you’re willing and able to follow my advice lol!!
The hardest part for me was deciding to continue driving an old Honda Civic until it dies instead of having a new vehicle and payments.
So if you already drive an older vehicle you owe yourself a RedWolf the way I see it!
And I also sold my .25 Crown to soften the blow, so I pretty much had to get a RedWolf after sacrificing the Crown right?
I’m also not married anymore so there’s that…😊
I understand your comment, but if you think you pinch a penny, then you really need to look at how I live.

Pinch a penny? Drive an older car... you are an amateur!

I already live more frugally than anyone I know because I have done it all of my life.

The problem is justifying the price of something I don't truly NEED, but just want.

Of course, I am getting to the age where I might decide to buy some things because I know I won't live for a lot longer and even if I do, there is no guarantee that I will be able to do/enjoy things when I am at that advanced age.

However, for now... there are things that always come up that HAVE to be paid for and usually crop up within a month or two of spending money on something I didn't really NEED.

Understand? (smile)
 
Re-reading my posts sounds to much like doom and gloom. So a little buffering here. Everything is critical with high power RC stuff, extemely critical to keep the batteries in good shape. The RC people are running up to 20C, sometimes more, until voltage sag causes shutoff. At that high a discharge rate, when the protection kicks in there is still a good amount of charge in the battery, it wasn't discharged fully.

C is short for capacity, 20C for a battery pack with 3000mah capacity would be a 60 amp discharge rate, you guys with daystates are likely not even hitting 2C for milliseconds at a time. If I had a daystate, I would just charge up to 3.8 per cell and use it. After getting used to how much your packs drain before they drop down to 3.5v, and I'm guessing that is more than 99% of you ever shoot in a day, charge it back up to 3.8v per cell or if you are shooting a lot over 2 days let it go lower than 3.5v and then charge it back up to 3.8v per cell. A couple or 3 times a month, using a proper battery charger, set your charger to do a full discharge/recharge cycle at the best current level for longevity in a lipo(I'd have to look it up), and then discharge it back down to 3.8v per cell. The full cycle is important for long term health.

You can do some things "wrong" and it doesn't really hurt, although lipo's are more sensitive to abuse than other lithium ion chemistries. I intentionally treat a set of 6 matched 16650 poorly. I charge them to full, not storage voltage, and keep them in the refrigerator. They are used two at a time in my Trijicon IR Hunter Mk3 scope, and when I want to use it I want fully charged batteries now. I just recently had them diverging a little in voltage after use so ran all of them through a couple discharge/charge cycles and repaired them by capacity/resistance. In almost 3 years and dozens of uses they are still 98% percent the capacity they were new and internal resistance changed just a tiny bit, not enough to matter except re-pairing them. If I didn't keep them in the fridge, I'm sure they would all be replaced by now.

A good lipo pack, left fully charged at the temperatures in your typical home, will only lose roughly 20% of its capacity in a years time. The battery will still be perfectly good, just have less capacity. That is a permanent unrecoverable loss. A very low charge on a lipo left alone for a year will lose about 1/4 of that, permanently. If you really get anal about it, I do with a few of my expensive batteries, get a good sealed non conductive container that won't let the batteries move, and put it in your refrigerator when not in use. All lithium chemistries are most stable between about 32 degrees F and 40 or so, get too cold in storage and you start increasing problems, ie: don't put it in your freezer. You could put a fully charged lipo in your refrigerator, forget about it for a year and maybe lose 2% capacity, instead of 20% at room temp.
 
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Actually that is wrong. It is 3 cells in series, assuming it has proper control board and balances discharge, each cell is 3.933333 volts at 11.8. That is too high a voltage for storage and not using for a few days. Best voltage for storage, and not using it for two days is storage for a lipo, is between 3.6 and 3.8 volts per cell. Lipos are like a needy spouse, better take care of them or you will be divorced.
I will keep doing exactly what I outlined if you don't mind. I have over 2 years on these batteries and not 1 lick of an issue ever.
Thx
Dan
 
I understand your comment, but if you think you pinch a penny, then you really need to look at how I live.

Pinch a penny? Drive an older car... you are an amateur!

I already live more frugally than anyone I know because I have done it all of my life.

The problem is justifying the price of something I don't truly NEED, but just want.

Of course, I am getting to the age where I might decide to buy some things because I know I won't live for a lot longer and even if I do, there is no guarantee that I will be able to do/enjoy things when I am at that advanced age.

However, for now... there are things that always come up that HAVE to be paid for and usually crop up within a month or two of spending money on something I didn't really NEED.

Understand? (smile)
 
Yup! I definitely understand.
Health issues left me with no insurance and unemployable.
I was able to turn a hobby into a business that is keeping me afloat coupled with my social security.
Without that hobby I certainly wouldn’t have a RedWolf or my other guns.
I see myself as extremely fortunate to be able to have a few expensive toys.
I sure hope I didn’t offend you by suggesting it’s easy to get a RedWolf, it’s not!
If we were neighbors I’d invite you over for lots of shooting sessions!
 
I have a .22 and a .177 RedWolf and both batteries failed too soon.
Shane at AOA immediately sent me two new ones and they lasted for a couple months before I noticed them losing their charge too quickly.
Shane immediately sent me a different charger and so far the batteries are holding up fine, hopefully it’s going to work out.
At least I know from the information in this post that it can be remedied if theses batteries fail as well.
Everything else about these rifles is spectacular and I’m completely in awe of them both!
AOA and Shane have been very supportive.
@davelarson tell me about the new charger
 
@davelarson tell me about the new charger
Well the battery just died again, it had been fully charged a week ago and I shot maybe a full tin in that time.
Here’s the chargers, the one on top with the plug converter is the one that came with the rifle.
The other one Shane at AOA sent me along with the new battery.
I just charged the battery fully and will pay close attention to how long it lasts.
Karl’s information makes sense and I plan on calling Shane after I see how long this charge on the new battery lasts.
I’m hoping that this can be remedied because these rifles are so fantastic.
I’ll definitely post about how it comes out, I’m confident that it will be fine and that my rifle is going to be as reliable as Deadeye’s rifle. Time will tell.

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From AOA:
I am glad to hear that the battery solved the issue. When it comes to
the two methods, they both work because they are essentially doing the
same thing. The rifle has a microswitch, called the bolt switch, which
essentially "cocks" the gun, or tells the board the gun is ready to
fire. When you hold the bolt open it pushes a pin onto the microswitch
and keeps it held down, interestingly, the safety functions in the same
way, pushing a pin onto that microswitch and holding it down, which
makes the rifle unable to fire. To enter the programming mode, both the
trigger switch and the bolt switch need to be held down, so both of the
methods do the same thing and both will work. Regarding the battery, I
recommend taking it out and charging it about once a month regardless of
how much you shoot. The charger that comes with the gun is a balance
charger and will keep the 3 cells in the battery in balance.