Redwolf Adapter

Hi Lewis. I searched for an adapter also and in the end had an adapter made up locally. The other thing I considered doing was to machine and re tread a moderator to the 14mm tread and avoid the adapter altogether. I think you’d have enough metal to work with if you start with 1/2unf. Its quite a fine tread I think it’s a 1mm pitch from memory. I had to buy the tap for the guy who did the work for me as it’s not that common. 

Michael
 
The standard muzzle thread is 1/2-20UNF. The 20 is the pitch, 20TPI. 



You can obviously forgo the shroud if you like and attach directly to your barrel, but just so you're aware the reflex volume of your shroud will allow a given moderator to perform much better on your rifle than it otherwise would. For this reason, you might consider fabricating/fabricobbling a 1/2UNF adapter for the end of your shroud or fitting a custom shroud, rather than ditching it all. 

That said, how does the factory Huggett attach? I vaguely recall something about a custom air-stripper and thread adapter under the muzzle if you can just break the loctite. 
 
If your Red Wolf barrel is not threaded, I strongly suggest that you leave it that way. I recently bought a Red Wolf, and it would not shoot. The muzzle was threaded for the air stripper. Finally replaced the barrel with a current production barrel that is not threaded, and it shoots great. If yours is threaded for an air stripper, and it shoots well, maybe you can fabricate an adapter that uses those threads. If not, you can probably get an adapter made that is like my Steyr, a slip fit over the muzzle with a small grub screw to hold it, works great. A barrel as thin as this cannot be threaded without risking altering the bore dimensions and choke. If that occurs, take my word, it will shoot like an $89 K Mart special. 
 
Here are a couple of pictures with the shroud removed and the barrel exposed. Hope this helps - 
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Just a question, wouldn't a direct attached moderator mess with barrel flex? I would think a can at the end of the barrel would affect accuracy. Thoughts?

Anything you do to the barrel will affect harmonics, maybe for the better, or not. Attaching directly to the barrel, as with my Steyr, seems to have no greater effect on POI change than when used with a shroud, but every rifle and every barrel is different. And the Steyr shoots like an absolute laser. If I showed some of the groups, it would not be believed. 
 
Here are a couple of pictures with the shroud removed and the barrel exposed. Hope this helps - 
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That is the setup that came with my Red Wolf. Many of them shoot great, mine was awful. My new barrel does not use a stripper, it uses a bushing that attaches at the muzzle with a grub screw, and that centers the shroud. If there is any difference in sound, I can't tell, since I use with silencer anyway. 
 
There are some competition bench and FT shooters using the RW without a shroud, I agree that the naked barrel should be less affected by harmonic interference, but my RW's shoot so unbelievably well with the shroud I couldnt bear to ruin the look of the gun.

The muzzle is factory threaded M14, however by hanging a moderator on the end you risk introducing more harmonic errors, so why not just shoot it completely bare if ultimate accuraccy is your goal?


 
There are some competition bench and FT shooters using the RW without a shroud, I agree that the naked barrel should be less affected by harmonic interference, but my RW's shoot so unbelievably well with the shroud I couldnt bear to ruin the look of the gun.

The muzzle is factory threaded M14, however by hanging a moderator on the end you risk introducing more harmonic errors, so why not just shoot it completely bare if ultimate accuraccy is your goal?



When I got my replacement barrel, I shot it bare because I didn't yet have the bushing to use with the shroud. It shot very good, but no better than with the shroud after I installed the bushing. As with anything related to accuracy, barrels are different, and each has to be tested individually.


 
The reason I am looking for an adapter is to be able to try several moderators without modifying them. It seems my barrel likes frequent cleaning. I am trying to avoid having to remove the shroud etc after each tin of pellets. I replaced the barrel retention set screws with thumb screws and now the barrel can be removed and replaced in under a minute. I would like to just spin off the moderator remove the barrel clean inspect the orings and get right back to shooting.



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Hi Lewis. I searched for an adapter also and in the end had an adapter made up locally. The other thing I considered doing was to machine and re tread a moderator to the 14mm tread and avoid the adapter altogether. I think you’d have enough metal to work with if you start with 1/2unf. Its quite a fine tread I think it’s a 1mm pitch from memory. I had to buy the tap for the guy who did the work for me as it’s not that common. 

Michael

Would the person who made yours be willing to make another? if so how much?
 
First off I think the adapter to 1/2x20unf is a great Idea!, may have a machine shop make one for me?, but a couple questions 1- did you make it out of SS?, 2- did u leave the bushing @ receiver end in place?, 3- did u shoot it without shroud and just the stripper, if so, how was accuracy-loudness?, my stripper vent holes do not set either vertically nor horizontally 0 or 90deg. To bore, but about 70deg. Don’t know if it matters? Suppose I could place shims to right this? Thanks!
 
I’d be happy to get another made up but I am on the other side of the world in Australia. Might be easier to get it done locally. Cost was $40 Australian dollars. If you can’t get one locally I’m happy to help. 
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Michael

That is exactly what I am looking for! I wonder if Donny or someone else looking in would be able/willing to make a few?
 
First off I think the adapter to 1/2x20unf is a great Idea!, may have a machine shop make one for me?, but a couple questions 1- did you make it out of SS?, 2- did u leave the bushing @ receiver end in place?, 3- did u shoot it without shroud and just the stripper, if so, how was accuracy-loudness?, my stripper vent holes do not set either vertically nor horizontally 0 or 90deg. To bore, but about 70deg. Don’t know if it matters? Suppose I could place shims to right this? Thanks!

I tried mine both with and without the stripper and found no difference. Clocking the stripper also did not seem to have any effect. Without the shroud/moderator it is quite loud even at low power. Shroud without moderator helps a little but not enough for me to want to back out the 2 set screws each time. This leads me to believe the moderator is doing the heavy lifting here. I won't know for sure until I can try it with the moderator only though.
 
Thanks for information, I had my shroud off this morning and couldn’t believe how leaded up the exterior of barrel, stripper, etc. was under the shroud!!!,( have approximately 800rds thru it now) and forgot to see if barrel might be “stainless” Before I put shroud on! I highly doubt it is? If anyone knows, chime in, I need to shoot it for myself with shroud off! but pretty sure it will be louder than I want... But I’m tempted to buy a Rowan or similar dedicated air stripper to barrel and see how it does?
 
First off I think the adapter to 1/2x20unf is a great Idea!, may have a machine shop make one for me?, but a couple questions 1- did you make it out of SS?, 2- did u leave the bushing @ receiver end in place?, 3- did u shoot it without shroud and just the stripper, if so, how was accuracy-loudness?, my stripper vent holes do not set either vertically nor horizontally 0 or 90deg. To bore, but about 70deg. Don’t know if it matters? Suppose I could place shims to right this? Thanks!

I tried mine both with and without the stripper and found no difference. Clocking the stripper also did not seem to have any effect. Without the shroud/moderator it is quite loud even at low power. Shroud without moderator helps a little but not enough for me to want to back out the 2 set screws each time. This leads me to believe the moderator is doing the heavy lifting here. I won't know for sure until I can try it with the moderator only though.

I have done this exercise with my FX Crown, in which the threads are in the end cap that screws into the sleeve and holds the liner in place. Based on that, you are correct, the moderator is the real sound suppressor. I think you will hear little difference without the shroud, but with moderator.