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Recommendations needed: Desiccant filter options for Hill Pump

Yesterday, I shipped off my Brocock Compatto and Hill pump to a friend who bought it in Idaho. When I bought the pump I ended only using it for a month or two and then switched to tanked air, so forever it has sat and I never got the version with the desiccant filter built in.

I told my friend he should buy a desiccant filter for the pump and I would ask ya'all for recommendations. I saw PyramidAir sells the Hill filter, but I thought you might have other, maybe cheaper suggestions / recommendations. Or is it better just to get the Hill desiccant filter and be done with it? aka design for purpose.

thanks for the input.
 
I would get the smallest possible filter for a hand pump so you are not pumping forever and wasting air. I think this is one of the smallest descant filters around and has a cartridge so replacement of filter material is easy. This should be good for high problematic humidity areas. I would probly just use a cheap Yong Heng filter and check it often as you loose a lot of air when using a larger filter. That means twice the pumping to fill your gun.


desiccant filter

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCP-Inflator-Air-compressor-High-Pressure-Filter-Oil-and-Water-Separator-Pump-40/174369530475?hash=item28993be26b:g:y2sAAOSw1qtfIa3m

Yong Heng filter

https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Oil-water-Filter-Pressure-3500psi/dp/B07F11WM8H/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=yong+heng+filter&qid=1607093088&s=hi&sr=1-10
 
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If you go post compression filter/drier, which is the proper way because trying to remove moisture before compressing is just about pointless but creates lots of easy revenue for sellers of that stuff, a dessicant drier (molecular sieve) must stay pressurized to at least 1700 psi at all times. 

Small molecular sieves are available for air gun sized compressors. You can find them from $50 to $500. Remember, the drier gets pressurized anywhere from 300 to 4500psi so going cheap may not be safe. 

There’s special valves required to maintain the pressure in the drier when not compressing air.

Do your homework before waisting money on a set up. 
 

If you go post compression filter/drier, which is the proper way because trying to remove moisture before compressing is just about pointless but creates lots of easy revenue for sellers of that stuff, a dessicant drier (molecular sieve) must stay pressurized to at least 1700 psi at all times. 

Small molecular sieves are available for air gun sized compressors. You can find them from $50 to $500. Remember, the drier gets pressurized anywhere from 300 to 4500psi so going cheap may not be safe. 

There’s special valves required to maintain the pressure in the drier when not compressing air.

Do your homework before waisting money on a set up.

Please explain this picture you have. I can only assume it is some type water separator. Is there any details where we can get this? Looks pricy!
 
0F5130AB-DD84-4DF1-902C-231806DC8F33.1626636517.jpeg
The pictured molecular sieve drier came from Joe Brancato, it’s his Alpha filter with some modifications. 

The filter came with bleed valves, pressure gauge, high pressure line, the filter drier itself and a PMV ( pressure maintaining valve).

I did a lot of work in the scuba industry with compressors and air storage to 6,000 psi. Any compressor, from home shop/garage up to scuba type compressors draw in moisture laden ambient air and compresses it to your desired pressure. While hot, the moisture is in suspension just like on a hot humid day, and just like in nature, as the day cools the air can no longer hold that humidity and it drops out as condensate (water) as you see it on the grass or your car windshield and body sheet metal. In a compressor with no way of removing moisture this can occur in your guns air tank or in its internals. 

Anyway, I modified it by mounting it to a bracket and bolted it to my compressor table as it must ALWAYS stay vertical. A molecular sieve must also stay pressurized after initial pressurizing at 1,700psi, that’s the purpose of the pressure maintaining valve, it will not let air out of the drier vessel until it exceeds 1,700psi. I added to scuba line valves (black knobs in photo) to assure that when the unit is not being used I can close the input and outputs of the filter just as extra measure to make sure I don’t lose pressure in sieve. On a low cubic foot per minute output compressor like the ones we use for air guns, we don’t want to waste time re-compressing air un-necessarily, hence valves in addition to the PMV. The sieve must stay pressurized so the moisture that’s been absorbed by the sieve beads doesn’t condensate out, becoming water and potentially turning to steam as a result of an exothermic reaction and potentially blowing up the filter. 

I also redesigned the air input to the filter so it comes in from above the bottom of the sieve so that when you occasionally drain off small amounts of moisture from the sieve it goes down into the drip leg. Draining condensate on the compressor and the sieve is a requirement. Some compressors have an automatic drain cycle that lasts one or two seconds to take care of condensate accumulation.

The Alpha filter is $400 and I added another hundred or so to the project in valves. Maybe the whole drier is overkill but I’m getting the same dry air that I would be getting if I went to a dive shop, which in my area is max 3,442psi which really sucks having a 4,500 psi scba tank. And in addition, they require yearly tank inspection which takes two or three weeks and $40, not to mention the inconvenience of having to go to the dive shop and leave the tank for a couple days for the fill, then a return trip for a 3,442psi fill. I’m happy with my set up. Compressed air is never cheap. 

See photo of my Omega Air Charger and filter set up.


 
The PMV that comes with it will (supposed to) maintain whatever pressure was in it when you finished pumping. The purpose of the PMV is to not allow air to leave the sieve until it hits 1,700psi because that’s the minimum pressure that the sieve does its absorbing of moisture. I got two different stories from Brancato’s staff. One associate said drain it completely after each session, which is 100% incorrect and another email that says just bleed off enough air to spill off the condensate from the drain valve. Joe’s set up as received,, and if you turned your compressor off at 4,500psi would leave that pressure against the HP piston, not a good practice because the next time the compressor starts it has to push against all that pressure to start. With my set up I close both valves and then bleed off all lines except the sieve. 

I’ve seen what appears to be the exact sieve on ebay for $70 or $80, not do sure I’d trust it. I trust Joe. He also has another sieve that’s a about a hundred dollars cheaper, his associate talked me into the Alpha.
 
0F5130AB-DD84-4DF1-902C-231806DC8F33.1626636517.jpeg
The pictured molecular sieve drier came from Joe Brancato, it’s his Alpha filter with some modifications. 

The filter came with bleed valves, pressure gauge, high pressure line, the filter drier itself and a PMV ( pressure maintaining valve).

I did a lot of work in the scuba industry with compressors and air storage to 6,000 psi. Any compressor, from home shop/garage up to scuba type compressors draw in moisture laden ambient air and compresses it to your desired pressure. While hot, the moisture is in suspension just like on a hot humid day, and just like in nature, as the day cools the air can no longer hold that humidity and it drops out as condensate (water) as you see it on the grass or your car windshield and body sheet metal. In a compressor with no way of removing moisture this can occur in your guns air tank or in its internals. 

Anyway, I modified it by mounting it to a bracket and bolted it to my compressor table as it must ALWAYS stay vertical. A molecular sieve must also stay pressurized after initial pressurizing at 1,700psi, that’s the purpose of the pressure maintaining valve, it will not let air out of the drier vessel until it exceeds 1,700psi. I added to scuba line valves (black knobs in photo) to assure that when the unit is not being used I can close the input and outputs of the filter just as extra measure to make sure I don’t lose pressure in sieve. On a low cubic foot per minute output compressor like the ones we use for air guns, we don’t want to waste time re-compressing air un-necessarily, hence valves in addition to the PMV. The sieve must stay pressurized so the moisture that’s been absorbed by the sieve beads doesn’t condensate out, becoming water and potentially turning to steam as a result of an exothermic reaction and potentially blowing up the filter. 

I also redesigned the air input to the filter so it comes in from above the bottom of the sieve so that when you occasionally drain off small amounts of moisture from the sieve it goes down into the drip leg. Draining condensate on the compressor and the sieve is a requirement. Some compressors have an automatic drain cycle that lasts one or two seconds to take care of condensate accumulation.

The Alpha filter is $400 and I added another hundred or so to the project in valves. Maybe the whole drier is overkill but I’m getting the same dry air that I would be getting if I went to a dive shop, which in my area is max 3,442psi which really sucks having a 4,500 psi scba tank. And in addition, they require yearly tank inspection which takes two or three weeks and $40, not to mention the inconvenience of having to go to the dive shop and leave the tank for a couple days for the fill, then a return trip for a 3,442psi fill. I’m happy with my set up. Compressed air is never cheap. 

See photo of my Omega Air Charger and filter set up.


I like your setup. Got my Air Charger this PM and immediately wondered about the tampon- cigarette filter at intake. And there is my question: would it be technically illogical to install the air dryer sieve at the intake or would that not work in terms of intake volume? In theory the entire system would then be water free. But again, would that even work?

Or, in addition to your setup, putting a desiccant unit on the intake, or would that then not be necessary anymore?