Re-working synthetic stock

[bigHUN]

This f-class project got to my hands last week from a very older fella.
The metal parts look and feels promising, but the plastic/composite stock is killing me. I know getting some chassis would be a better option, but I don't want to spend that money on this thing that will be seeing sunlight ones or twice a year.
I would like to remove the old paint layers and refresh the look a little bit more modern and pleasing, maybe air dry ceracoat or hydrodip...
The first problem I am seeing that sanding this part may take a lifetime. What else?

Anybody have an experience to share?

 

[Hold_Over]

Most of the chemical strippers may eat the plastic. You could look at 1 of the more environmentally friendly ones like the orange stripper and see if the have any warnings about plastics on the label. It works on some paints...not as well as the more hostile stuff though. Usually a bit more elbow grease getting all the paint off.

 

[Hold_Over]

The only caution this 2 has is not to use on plexiglass, i assume it will be cloudy after. First review claims he removed spray paint of a plastic car bumper. If you try it i would test a small location and check it after.

https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Easy-Varnish-Hazardous-Non-Toxic/dp/B08PHVJNDJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2NHLO4BF4EVUH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Rd_jve_K3UJAHcdtPYtMISzxvQJB1mF8Eh4yQcTQ23TzOYLs1KIGDh3pmymJLN7mmGQUHaf788dCysTdMKAZbpE4rESk18Xn5GKaWvCgq8kAO_4inKPGoYyaRVSrQDEOzqQnuqABk312peKbaJD7HLy_ilO-8KiqXFGj8fLBF_euH-bs9PzLHAU6Jw3_90SUIaNOhbLPwdG47B66ztAcLA.gx5rtSgj9pwi-GOn-O1VG8kqoObVhY3LJph4Hu3F41E&dib_tag=se&keywords=citrus+stripper+paint+remover&qid=1714332718&sprefix=citrus+stripper%2Caps%2C106&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

 

[Florida_Man]

Have you tried 99% isopropyl alcohol?

I’ve never tried it, but I’ve read of people using Dot3 brake fluid.

 

[GeneT]

Fine bead or soda blast, then repaint.

GsT

 

[rcs9250]

Are you sanding to get to original base layer? Are you going to paint it or just shooting for the base layer color ?

 

[WoodWelder]

I zoomed in the best I could and it looks to be solid? Scuff it up and go over the top.
The old paint will act as a primer coat.

 

[bigHUN]

I am walking around that old stock for couple days, tinkering.
You are right, no need to remove the old paint completely to bare "fiberglass/plastic", just sand it smooth and eventually patch it up with body repair (two compound) epoxy.
Called a friend of my, he has milling machines, I will visit him maybe end of week to mill couple flats and slots.
My idea to mount a 9-10" long arca rail on bottom and some M-Lok pockets on forend.
If I could make something for mounting "over the barrel bipod" that would be the goal.

 

[Florida_Man]

I am walking around that old stock for couple days, tinkering.
You are right, no need to remove the old paint completely to bare "fiberglass/plastic", just sand it smooth and eventually patch it up with body repair (two compound) epoxy.
Called a friend of my, he has milling machines, I will visit him maybe end of week to mill couple flats and slots.
My idea to mount a 9-10" long arca rail on bottom and some M-Lok pockets on forend.
If I could make something for mounting "over the barrel bipod" that would be the goal.

Much better plan. I just spent several months stripping and painting my 1960’s kitchen cabinets. Stripping paint is a nasty job, and I was just dealing with latex. On a side note for anyone tackling a latex paint removal, alcohol is a good friend. 99% isopropyl for the wood, and your choice of adult beverage to deal with the labor part.

 

[bigHUN]

Spent a good half a day yesterday in the garage stripping smoothing the paint surface...OMG how much dust from bed liner paint layers ... but finally some new contours started showing

 

[bigHUN]

Started adding fiberglass layers yesterday, and I just made a mistake with a last mix ... it was curing too fast so I added way less activator...now I will need couple days to harden... hopefully...
Today... still sticky on touch.

 

[Dr. Kralenstein]

Started adding fiberglass layers yesterday, and I just made a mistake with a last mix ... it was curing too fast so I added way less activator...now I will need couple days to harden... hopefully...
Today... still sticky on touch.

View attachment 463264

You can apply heat to force it to activate the MEK in the glass. Use a heat gun on low, don't get too close, and keep it moving. If you stay on one spot too long it can actually cause it to soften.

 

[bigHUN]

Or, maybe bring it outside and leave it under sun?

 

[bigHUN]

Tried the heat gun, didn't help. Looks like I will need to scrape / file down that soft layer somehow and redo...

 

[Florida_Man]

Do you have scrapers like these? They work really well.

https://a.co/d/42Ij7OI

 

[WoodWelder]

Do you have scrapers like these? They work really well.

https://a.co/d/42Ij7OI

Wow, that is inexpensive.......

Do you know what I have used for a burnisher for more than 50 years? I use a valve pushrod......Can't ware it out!

 

[WoodWelder]

Tried the heat gun, didn't help. Looks like I will need to scrape / file down that soft layer somehow and redo...

I didn't want to be the bringer of negative news but, usually if the hardener don't "kick" it never will.....If you wait a couple of weeks, it could eventually dry?

 

[bigHUN]

In the morning I throw out the stock on rear porch, not really sunny day but almost. Minutes ago I touch the epoxy, no more soft soft spots but not fully hardened yet. I will leave it there couple more days, I am busy with my compressor repair anyway.

 

[rc4fun]

If you are desperate build a box with foil backed foam and put a regular light bulb inside, 40W is plenty with a really small fan.

 

[bigHUN]

Sitting on my rear deck for couple days definitely helped. We still don't have high temperatures here North of Toronto, 15-18 C average, checked the UV=1 so that's not neither.
I will file down to basic shape and waiting for a friend machine shop to square it up. I want to mount an arca rail on bottom.