RAW REPORT

I'm one step closer towards my goal for high power tuning. I added some preload tension to the spring and have it up to 951fps with 34gr MKI's (68FPE). I bought a bunch of the 34.7gr NSAs to test out. They seem a little tight inside my barrel, and they're coming out at 935fps. I should be able to squeeze more out of it, I'm still a ways below 160bar right now.

The 33gr VKs might shoot a little better with the added power. They're coming out around 945fps on the high side, so there some room to tune for them. They didn't seem to have enough umph behind them when I tested last weekend with 880-905fps.


 
Hi guys - I'm seriously considering a RAW HM1000x in .30 for long range target shooting and hunting - the result here look amazing...

How effective are the moderators on the RAW's? If the default moderator is not as quiet as I need/want - what's the best way to address that situation?

How many shots should I expect shooting the .30's?

Also if I end up wanting to shoot .25 - is it reasonable to think I can swap the barrel, adjust the hammer spring and the regulator if necessary?



Thanks!!

eric


 
Hi guys - I'm seriously considering a RAW HM1000x in .30 for long range target shooting and hunting - the result here look amazing...

How effective are the moderators on the RAW's? If the default moderator is not as quiet as I need/want - what's the best way to address that situation?

How many shots should I expect shooting the .30's?

Also if I end up wanting to shoot .25 - is it reasonable to think I can swap the barrel, adjust the hammer spring and the regulator if necessary?



Thanks!!

eric


I had one. Nice shooting gun and very accurate, but I sold it and bought a .25 instead which I like better. The trajectory is a lot flatter at longer ranges and it has plenty of energy for hunting.
 
Hi guys - I'm seriously considering a RAW HM1000x in .30 for long range target shooting and hunting - the result here look amazing...

How effective are the moderators on the RAW's? If the default moderator is not as quiet as I need/want - what's the best way to address that situation?

How many shots should I expect shooting the .30's?

Also if I end up wanting to shoot .25 - is it reasonable to think I can swap the barrel, adjust the hammer spring and the regulator if necessary?



Thanks!!

eric


Hi Eric,

The .30 is an accurate gun for sure.

The stock Moderator leaves something to be desired. It does not have enough volume to do an effective job. I know Donny FL was working on some stuff for the RAW's but I don't know if he has done anything with the .30. Now my solution was posted quite a while ago. I found the manufacturer of the carbon fiber sleeve that RAW uses and bought some longer carbon tube then I talked to Martin and he said no problem that he would sell me more baffles. So I increased the size from a 2 chamber to a 5 chamber design. The results it is almost dead quiet pellets hitting soft targets are much louder than the rifle, the bad is it added 6" to the length of an already long rifle. 
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The stock tube is the one laying on the bench under the rifle.

If I remember correctly the stock .30 gets around 35 shots on a tank, I get more than that but mine has been tuned.

As far as the .25 cal swap several guys on here have done it and I believe SPAW is offering it as a package, keep in mind in addition to the barrel you have to change the pellet probe as well due to the change in size.


 
@terrymc - nice job, how did that affect accuracy / POI?

@jps2486 - you're going to want to invest in some additional bottle orings if you plan on making tweaks to your regulator. They do t last too long, even if you're not torquing down the bottle super tight. I also wound up having to break off the "ears" on my LRT stock when my bottle seized with my reg (when the reg began to unscrew with the bottle). There wasn't a way to get a wrench on the reg to hold it in place, and I didn't want to deface my valve or screw anything else up by degassing it. Not a huge deal, there's no really any aesthetic differences without them in my eyes.
 
Wondering if someone can help clue me in on thread sizes for:

1) Best Fittings Theoben Rapid Regulator Tester (where the male regulator threads are suppose to screw into)

2) RAW HMx .357 reg (male threads)

I bought a Best reg tester recently from Ken Hicks, with the intention of doing external reg pressure testing. Unfortunately in this case, the reg in my .25 HM1000X is that if an incompatible .357 reg. I'd like to either try and find some fittings to mate up to do external reg adjustments or have one machined locally (The numbers I pulled from my digits caliper don't match up to anything that I can find).

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated 👍
 
Crusher just D@m^!



your .30 with the BM stock and the SVSS scope and NOTA rest(did not realize that you had that one, never came up in our conversations LUCKY YOU!) what a combo!!!!!

I have considered putting my BM stock on the .30, and then throw on my Vortex Golden Eagle, but it would put me in the precision class for 100 yard and for that class you could potentially be shooting against a rail gun amongst other things it is just about an unlimited class about the only thing prohibited is incindary devices. I think I will stick to the hunter class which is limited to a bipod or bag front rest, and not have to worry about shooting against someone with a five figure package.



Not that I ever have the time to go compete!

I just bought it about 2 weeks ago now, from a friend in my shooting club. I just did install the Burris rings and set the scope in. Haven't tried to shoot it here at the house because it is just too loud to bother my neighbors with. I'm going to a match tomorrow so I will spend some time there afterwards and see if I can get it on the paper at 100. Then I'll tune it from there. 

It is really a great looking gun. And when I shot it before I bought it, I put 10-12 of the 27 shots through the same fingernail sized hole. I can't wait to get out and practice with it and see what it can really do. I know one thing for sure. It is WAY more expensive to shoot than any of my other guns. Tons more air and pellets are getting up there with the cost of rimfire. But, as they say, I knew the job was dangerous when I took it 😉



Crusher
 
After the club match today, I had the chance to site in the RAW .30 cal. I had already mounted the Sightron SV on it with Burris rings and was ready to go. Surprisingly it was only about 6-8 clicks left, which is one mil. And it was shooting about 5 mils high @ 25m. I wanted to be sure I was going to get on the paper so I just started at 25. But, it put a mag of 9 pellets into one pellet sized hole, despite the wind.

Over on the 50m, there were about 5 guys with AR15's just wasting ammo. Blasting away rapid fire. No way I was going to go sit over there.

Anyway, despite a gusting 15 mph wind, I manage to convince my RAW .177 to shoot a 725 in the match for 3rd place. The wind was the real winner. I think the #1 guy shot like 743 or something close to that. I know he had one target he shot a 248. (I think he cheats using guided bullets or something). I'll send some pics after I get back to the range tomorrow.

Crusher


 
Hi guys,

I'm please to share with you that I've become an owner of this beauty, and it is a joy to shoot.

TM 1000 177 with polygon barrel.

It is set up for hunter field target at about 18.5 FPE Shooting JSP monsters really well, but also shooting Nielsen 15.5 grains slugs amazingly.

It came with rowan trigger blade, and this is what I have question on: After I hit second stage on the trigger, it travels about 1mm more before it goes off. I've tried adjusting it by taking out second stage screw one turn. Adjustment does the job well on action out of the stock, but when put back into the stock it won't fire.

Did anyone experience this? Can someone share trigger diagram elapse?

Thanks you, Vasyl.



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Being the RAW uses a modular trigger block and can be adjusted w/o the stock being there, if it cocked and fired while just a bare action in your hand ... it will fire in the stock.

* UNLESS the trigger blade itself is contacting wood and not be allowed to go far enough rearward to release sear.

In that case you need to reduce the 1st stage travel so the 2nd stage / break happens with less blade travel ( Rear most screw on the blade )