RATS, forced to buy a compressor

Well, I HAD a nice relationship with one of my local dive shops, they were always very accommodating, I'd call to make sure they have air and they'd tell me when their tanks were to be up to full pressure, heck they'd even run the compressor and get the tanks up for me, I'd show up and boom I've got a full tank. Well I called and got the run around, even got told to go to another dive shop. That one only does SCUBA tanks and...not to 4500psi. So, me and Amazon agreed on a TUXING PCP Air Compressor, with a nice 20% off AND zero interest payments for 18 months. Given that it'll be used MAYBE twice a month it should last forever. Yeah it may not be the top of the line but hopefully it'll do what I need. I'll find out in a few weeks.
 
I have exact same model. Strongly suggest you go over each fitting before startup to be sure there not crossthreaded and tight. For oil, I use Secolube 500. Mine works great now and kept vibration to a minimum by placing packets od Duct Seal strategically under poorly supported areas like the dual filter...also, keep an eye on the reservoir for leaks. Mine leaked at the outlet connection mold parting line and was fixed by using aquarium seal. Good luck and keep us posted how it goes.
 
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I have exact same model. Strongly suggest you go over each fitting before startup to be sure there not crossthreaded and tight. For oil, I use Secolube 500. Mine works great now and kept vibration to a minimum by placing packets od Duct Seal strategically under poorly supported areas like the dual filter...also, keep an eye on the reservoir for leaks. Mine leaked at the outlet connection mold parting line and was fixed by using aquarium seal. Good luck and keep us posted how it goes.
thanks for the advice. I bought the ROYAL PURPLE SYNTHETIC COMP OIL to go with it. Do you run coolant in your water, do you use distilled or tap water. I can use reverse osmosis to get rid of 99% of the garbage in the water.
 
Well, I received the compressor today, box had a small hole in the top but other than that, unscathed, packing was incredible, LOTS of foam, around the unit and in the guts to stop things from moving, very impressed. Except for two minor little details, to follow, everything that was suppose to be tight was tight, no cross threading or other issues. The pressure gauge was slightly lifted on one side maybe 1/16", pushed right down, they did neglect to attach the coolant line from the pump to the cylinder. It's on the 'pressure' side of the pump so a zip tie will take care of that. Instructions were fair, seen worse. Awaiting for the compressor oil to come in to local O'Reily's, I'll pick up some coolant then. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I can fire it up and see how it works. Need to figure out how to attach an hour meter, shouldn't be too hard. Not that it's going to get a lot of hours on it anyway.

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Great to hear 👍 my package was well done also. In the final photo above showing pump outlet, the High Pressure head is visible. There is a small hole in the head that should accept the pre-wired thermocouple ( it will be a black wire with a silver color tube on the end) that tube is the thermocouple that goes into the hole in the High Pressure head...used to display running temp.
When you get it ready to fire suggest setting autoshutoff at 1000 psi or so. Plug the hose end and be sure bleed on fter is open. Run cooling pump Only for 5 min or so and check for leaks and confirm circulation.
Take care and good luck. Any questions at all please feel free to ask.
 
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Got the oil and some premix 50/50 coolant. Actually followed the instructions, like the first time EVER in my life. Started the coolant, no leaks, started the compressor, let run for 5 min per instructions, shut it off let it cool a bit, attached the fill line, nice and snug, started it back up and….damn it’s taking a long time to move the needle, slowly climbing but I could hear air….Felt around and it’s leaking out of the fill line…OKAY….maybe some teflon tape….then I though what the hell maybe there is a gasket, dug through the bag and low and behold there was one, so teflon taped the threads and used the gasket, making sure NOT to have any tape on the shoulder of the fitting. Fired it back up and it just climbed like it should to 4500psi.

Turns out that the pressure gauge glows in the dark when exposed to a flash light, cool. No obvious leaks. Turned off the compressor and did a leak down test, after 5 minutes lost 500psi, close enough for right now.

Went and reread the instructions and no where does it say there is a gasket on the high pressure fill. Now maybe I missed it three times but.....not so sure about that, I'll defer to others

Tomorrow I'll start filling my tanks and get some times.

Oh this thing is QUIET

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Well, hooked up my compressor to my 74cf tank that was down to 3000psi, , SWEET 21 minutes later it was at 4500psi, ok so far so good, hooked it up to my Maverick #1, it as down at 115 bar, pumped it right on up to 300 bar and shut off, the tank is rated for that Ok hooked up Maverick #2, it has a stock tank so I dropped it down to 250 bar, fired it up came back just as it hit the shutoff and OH DAMN, it kept going. Hit the on/off and it still pumping, pulled the plug, well the tank held cause it was way the H over the limit. Call it a unplanned pressure test. Without the safety of a water tank.

So, I though ok maybe the on/off switch was bad, got into the box and pulled the wires off of the switch and plugged it in....started running...oh oh, quick unplug. Down on the bottom of the box is a control unit, of course almost impossible to get at. That unit HAS to be bad, the auto shut off runs into it, as does the ON/Off, and MAYBE the water pump. Replacing it is not going to be fun, it'll take some planning, also not going to be done on a floor, it'll require a table to save a back and maybe an extra pair of hands.

I've contacted the Mfg. with a full rundown and pictures. Hopefully they'll have a solution. If not, Amazon gets a return. we'll see.

As the unit was running on the large tank, I was checking the temperature and it was a very steady 26c - 30c which agreed with my laser thermometer. The cooling air was about the same. This may be moot point as the temp probe may have been out of it's hole in the high pressure head, can't tell because I didn't notice it until I was moving the electrical cover.
 
Well, hooked up my compressor to my 74cf tank that was down to 3000psi, , SWEET 21 minutes later it was at 4500psi, ok so far so good, hooked it up to my Maverick #1, it as down at 115 bar, pumped it right on up to 300 bar and shut off, the tank is rated for that Ok hooked up Maverick #2, it has a stock tank so I dropped it down to 250 bar, fired it up came back just as it hit the shutoff and OH DAMN, it kept going. Hit the on/off and it still pumping, pulled the plug, well the tank held cause it was way the H over the limit. Call it a unplanned pressure test. Without the safety of a water tank.

So, I though ok maybe the on/off switch was bad, got into the box and pulled the wires off of the switch and plugged it in....started running...oh oh, quick unplug. Down on the bottom of the box is a control unit, of course almost impossible to get at. That unit HAS to be bad, the auto shut off runs into it, as does the ON/Off, and MAYBE the water pump. Replacing it is not going to be fun, it'll take some planning, also not going to be done on a floor, it'll require a table to save a back and maybe an extra pair of hands.

I've contacted the Mfg. with a full rundown and pictures. Hopefully they'll have a solution. If not, Amazon gets a return. we'll see.

As the unit was running on the large tank, I was checking the temperature and it was a very steady 26c - 30c which agreed with my laser thermometer. The cooling air was about the same. This may be moot point as the temp probe may have been out of it's hole in the high pressure head, can't tell because I didn't notice it until I was moving the electrical cover.
Yup your temperature probe was out of the cylinder. Shows in your unpacking picture. Mine shipped same way. The shutoff is notoriously not consistent. Most of mine (on 3rd gauge) have problems of alignment where in certain positions the 2 arrows don't make electrical contact, so no shutoff. Since I fill to 4500 the bleed valve goes but if you are filling to 250 bar it will be an issue unless you readjust the over-pressure bleed.
 
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Yup your temperature probe was out of the cylinder. Shows in your unpacking picture. Mine shipped same way. The shutoff is notoriously not consistent. Most of mine (on 3rd gauge) have problems of alignment where in certain positions the 2 arrows don't make electrical contact, so no shutoff. Since I fill to 4500 the bleed valve goes but if you are filling to 250 bar it will be an issue unless you readjust the over-pressure bleed.
Ok, that sort of makes sense, about the probe. But why in the hell is the thing energizing with the switch disconnected totally, do you think the auto-shut off is bi-passing the main shut off? I can toss a VOM on it and see what gives. So you've gone through 3 auto shutoffs? It's late and my old brain is tired.
 
Ok, that sort of makes sense, about the probe. But why in the hell is the thing energizing with the switch disconnected totally, do you think the auto-shut off is bi-passing the main shut off? I can toss a VOM on it and see what gives. So you've gone through 3 auto shutoffs? It's late and my old brain is tired.
On 3rd gauges with auto shutoff. Various shipping and installation damage. Yours looks like a different version, hopefully better. Yes volt meter. From what I remember its a 5v signal that turns off the pump motor relay. I actually wired in temperature switch into the same line. That way it shuts off at pressure or exceeding 60 C.
 
Failure to shutoff on power switch is either improperly wired relay or you turned off the coolant rather than compressor. Then again I would wire it so you can't run the compressor without coolant. Don't know what Tuxing did, don't remember testing the switch logic. Just always follow my procedure. Coolant, compressor, close drains. When it shuts off, open drains, when pressure normalizes, turn compressor back on to blow moisture out of cylinders 1min, turn off compressor, wait for temperature drop, turn off coolant.
 
Failure to shutoff on power switch is either improperly wired relay or you turned off the coolant rather than compressor. Then again I would wire it so you can't run the compressor without coolant. Don't know what Tuxing did, don't remember testing the switch logic. Just always follow my procedure. Coolant, compressor, close drains. When it shuts off, open drains, when pressure normalizes, turn compressor back on to blow moisture out of cylinders 1min, turn off compressor, wait for temperature drop, turn off coolant.
It was wired correctly, i.e. it worked twice, and yes coolant first and last. Your procedure is the same as mine. Of course the temp never dropped because it never got hot, yeah temp probe wasn't in the proper location but my IR thermometers never showed a temp rise either, strange. I'm going to run a continuity test on the auto-shutoff but that should't effect the thing running with the main power off....in theory.

Thanks for the advice, appreciate it.
 
On 3rd gauges with auto shutoff. Various shipping and installation damage. Yours looks like a different version, hopefully better. Yes volt meter. From what I remember its a 5v signal that turns off the pump motor relay. I actually wired in temperature switch into the same line. That way it shuts off at pressure or exceeding 60 C.
Ohhh, just saw this, example of the switch and wiring please. GREAT idea!!
 

My compressor got to Brian at Veradium all oily so he cut the system off and put it back to stock. I have the greasy thing somewhere in a bag. Don't have time to mess with it. Can't remember where I pulled power from, might have been a little power supply I added (110ac to 12vdc??). The Concept is run in parallel with gauge. Shorting the leads by gauge or by temperature controller is the same shutoff signal for the compressor. Bought the matching connectors so I wouldn't have to mess with the leads on the gauge or where it's going. Just haven't had time to wire it up again.
 
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Originally I complained on Amazon and they responded and sent a bunch of parts (same manufacturing errors and silliness - primarily misplaced drain screw that causes it to leak oil, they are still all like that based on the complaints I see). I got tired of the broken telephone routine. Bought parts on both Amazon and Aliexpress. When the coolant leak stalled the compressor, sent it to Veradium to have him rebuild (he dealt with whatever parts he wanted to replace). My guys didn't drain oil properly (it hides behind the large rubber gasket) and didn't plug the breather/oilfill hole. UPS played football with it and Brian received an Oily mess. Many months later he shipped it back (replaced piston rings, coolant system o-rings, plastic drying media housing in yellow filter, changed to better desiccant media, installed his upgraded gauge hose location, replaced gauge, replaced electronics with stock electronics because my upgrade was oily). UPS just about destroyed it on the way back, frame bent, screws holding sheet metal stripped, the intake dryer completely missing (torn out), and covered in oil because Brian didn't plug it either). The plastic gasket under the brass pressure adjusting screw on the gauge fell out upon the first adjustment, replaced it with an o-ring but it wouldn't shut off at 4500 did fine at 3000 but 4500 needles wouldn't touch each other to make the circuit. Cleaned it up, replaced gauge, installed air intake dryer, retapped the sheet metal mounting screws, filled with Bauer oil from Nuvair, runs like a champ.

Next projects: better drain screws, digital gauge/control, add flow window thing on the coolant system, and put the temperature cutoff back in.

Why buy parts? Because your time is probably more valuable than the parts that you are "entitled to". You will get them and probably extra that you don't need. You will have to spend time pleading your case and sending pictures, video and explanations. Parts are cheap. Easier to make a gasket for the drain screw than write more emails and stress while waiting for cover number 4.
 
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Originally I complained on Amazon and they responded and sent a bunch of parts (same manufacturing errors and silliness - primarily misplaced drain screw that causes it to leak oil, they are still all like that based on the complaints I see). I got tired of the broken telephone routine. Bought parts on both Amazon and Aliexpress. When the coolant leak stalled the compressor, sent it to Veradium to have him rebuild (he dealt with whatever parts he wanted to replace). My guys didn't drain oil properly (it hides behind the large rubber gasket) and didn't plug the breather/oilfill hole. UPS played football with it and Brian received an Oily mess. Many months later he shipped it back (replaced piston rings, coolant system o-rings, plastic drying media housing in yellow filter, changed to better desiccant media, installed his upgraded gauge hose location, replaced gauge, replaced electronics with stock electronics because my upgrade was oily). UPS just about destroyed it on the way back, frame bent, screws holding sheet metal stripped, the intake dryer completely missing (torn out), and covered in oil because Brian didn't plug it either). The plastic gasket under the brass pressure adjusting screw on the gauge fell out upon the first adjustment, replaced it with an o-ring but it wouldn't shut off at 4500 did fine at 3000 but 4500 needles wouldn't touch each other to make the circuit. Cleaned it up, replaced gauge, installed air intake dryer, retapped the sheet metal mounting screws, filled with Bauer oil from Nuvair, runs like a champ.

Next projects: better drain screws, digital gauge/control, add flow window thing on the coolant system, and put the temperature cutoff back in.

Why buy parts? Because your time is probably more valuable than the parts that you are "entitled to". You will get them and probably extra that you don't need. You will have to spend time pleading your case and sending pictures, video and explanations. Parts are cheap. Easier to make a gasket for the drain screw than write more emails and stress while waiting for cover number 4.
I'm not sure why but that was my guess, the company has been semi-ghosting me. I figure it this way, I'll give Amazon a chance to make right, Or I can return it and order another or say phooey on it and spend whopping $45 or so on the parts. Of course the review is going to be the worst EVER. Well, the gal at Amazon put in the order for the parts I need, ECM, gauge, plus one, just in case...the drain valve seems to leak when it's operating, so just in case. I'm fairly certain it's not from the tank itself.

Update 10/25/22. Amazon said the Mfg wanted picture of the bad parts....OKAY...Most I had but I had ZERO intent on pulling the ECM out for a picture so....I grabbed on off of AliExpress, we'll see what happens next, should be fun.
 
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