How do you guys range your target? I have a laser range finder that I typically carry with me but I'm interested in finding other, possibly better ways. Maybe some of you carry your range finder differently, perhaps a more efficient way (idk?). I'm kind of interested in how they do it for field target using the parallax to figure it out, but that seems tedious. I'm also well acquainted with the WERM rule and how to use it but that can be challenging as every (insert or your choice of game) isn't always the same size. Just curious how everyone else does it.
Ranging Game
- Thread starter RobertC
- Start date
Well, this is how I do it.
I use the ATN Scope system, which allows for the addition of the ATN ABL Laser Rangefinder around the front bell. This connects to the scope over Bluetooth, and ranges when I press a button on the scope or on the scope's Bluetooth remote control on the air bottle. The range displays in the scope on its electronic viewfinder.
Where this really comes into play is with the scope's Ballistic Calculator feature. You set up an ammo profile, with the projectile weight, velocity, zero distance and the scope's height above bore, along with the projectile ballistic coefficient. With this information, after you do a range, the Ballistic Calculator feature moves the reticle to the point of impact. No holdover or holdunder required. I range, put the crosshairs directly on game, and shoot. It's almost like cheating!
Every video you've seen me post of every shot taken has used the Ballistic Calculator, just like this one below. These shots may not seem to be that great, until you realize my scope is zero'd at 14 yards.
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I use the environment 
Hardly ever hunt new areas. I walk all areas before I hunt them. Then I count my steps from area to area.
Hardly ever hunt new areas. I walk all areas before I hunt them. Then I count my steps from area to area.
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I like to stop and sit down and let the woods settle when hunting squirrels. I just got a range finder but my plan is to measure the distance to different trees when sitting down so if a squirrel appears I will not have to use the range finder. They often do not stay visible for long. Looking at a labeled parallax wheel is probably faster than using a range finder, especially for a right handed shooter. I shoot from my left, however, which means I have to take the gun off my shoulder and tilt it towards me to see the parallax wheel. So it doesn't work great for me.
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Range finder and good ole guessing when I don’t have that. Guessing is only good so far. It’s usefulness depends on how far you shoot. I don’t shoot very far. Maybe max of 70-75 with most shots being 50 and under. I got pretty good at guessing when I shot IBO 3d archery. I shot the open class with 50 yard max but being accurate with your guessing out to 50 is way more crucial with a 280 fps arrow than it is a 900 fps pellet.
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If your scope is of sufficient power (probably 16X minimum), then using the parallax focus works well. Assuming, of course that you have accurately calibrated the adjustment wheel. In most cases, if the squirrel is too far for me to estimate the distance with reasonable accuracy, then it's too far to shoot.
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Been using an SFP scope long enough that I just use it for range. It's surprisingly accurate as long as I don't screw up the math in my head.
It's definitely not perfect but works for my airgun needs hunting out to 75yds.
N2 Shooter's set up is my dream.
It's definitely not perfect but works for my airgun needs hunting out to 75yds.
N2 Shooter's set up is my dream.
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Ditto on using the parallax knob. I’ve read that some scopes’ markings aren’t accurate which is not so important to me in this regard. What’s important for me is knowing which holdovers correspond to which distance markings in the parallax knob. This of course depends upon your scope’s zero. It’s easy to do with enough practice if you don’t change your scope’s settings. For me it works well with first focal plane (FFP) scopes because you must change the magnification to do so. I don’t always have time to look closely at the magnification ring to see that I set it back exactly where it was before cranking it all the way up. Now if you dial turrets you may want to use a different method. My $0.02.
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A twist on your technique…I’ve only recorded the holdover numbers on my parallax wheel…when its in focus, I use that holdover…no range in the equation..pretty fast, works for me.. John
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For the people using parallax to range, how long does the whole process take you to be accurate with it? 5-10 seconds? Longer? I've never had a scope with side focus before so I don't know.
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The way I use my range finder is from an overwatch position. I range various objects and if the quarry presents thereabouts? Kill shot… On the go, walking about? In many instances there’s no range finder time, particularly sub 40 yards, estimate the distance and take the shot or, don’t take the shot. Your experience through time will dictate.
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Seconds… shoulder rifle, crank wheel until image snaps in..look at holdover with left eye ( Im right handed) go for it..
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At realistic "HUNTING" distances, it is so similar to the Field Target game the rifles get set up like FT rifles 
A side wheel on parallax knob marked with distances with a D.O.P.E. card calibrated to pellet & speed at distances to @ 60 yards or more pending caliber & power.
Fast to use and done right .. ACCURATE !!!
Better yet for a hunting situation ...... Instead of distances on SF wheel, just mark holdover values .... Focus, look at wheel, use hold shown ... SHOOT
A side wheel on parallax knob marked with distances with a D.O.P.E. card calibrated to pellet & speed at distances to @ 60 yards or more pending caliber & power.
Fast to use and done right .. ACCURATE !!!
Better yet for a hunting situation ...... Instead of distances on SF wheel, just mark holdover values .... Focus, look at wheel, use hold shown ... SHOOT
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@JohnTaylor and Motorhead you are the second and third members, respectively. I’ve seen post this. Sounded good the first time, I just never did it. It’s definitely something to consider adopting.
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Similar to FT, what the distance actually is really DOES NOT MATTER. Key is that whatever the distance the parrilax focus pops has a corresponding hold position you have proofed to be accurate.
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Give it a try…a little disconcerting at first…not knowing how far away something is…when the image is in focus..refer to holdover number instead of range…target or quarry doesn’t care…take the shot... plus not having to carry/ refer to a dope card makes the process a little smoother.. I also use this technique at Fieldtarget Matches. Good Luck John
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While partially we can agree, on my scope wheel ... In FT being 10 out to @ 22y I'm personally scaled to each yard, 23 to 34 in 3 yard, 35 to 55 in 5 yard.
Especially up close I want to see what the differential in hold is yard to yard to mitigate ranging errors. As we move out we are less able to be so critical.
But YES , hold values in lieu of distance can work well enough for most shooters.
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I have every yard 10- 22… my zero at 27.5 covers 23- 32… the rest out to 55 are in 5 yd increments. Sightron with MOA-H reticle, JSB 13.4, mv 805. Ive only done this on one rifle, but it really works well for me.
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