R9 gets a new barrel

I know, I know, .25 on an R9, are you crazy?? Maybe, but goddam the spinners were getting slammed at 47 yards!

My .22 R9 is one of my favorite to shoot, I could never get consistent with my .177. So originally I was on the hunt for a .20 cut and threaded barrel but could not find one anywhere. Then one late night on Chamber’s website I came across an HW80 .25 threaded barrel and thought why not. 

Threw a new JM hornet spring in and mounted her up today. Pellet choice is very limited and only have FTT’s and JSB 25’s. The FTT averaged 615 for just under 17FPE and JSB went for 535 for just over 16FPE. 

Ran out of daylight so only managed a quick zero at 30yards on a very hole riddled target card so no pics yet. I will say both pellets put 4 through a ragged hole and pulled 1 or 2 pretty close. Then did a few shots at the 47yard spinner station and they were hitting with authority. 

All in all a fun set up so far. Tomorrow will zero more along the lines of 25 and according to ChairGun should be able to reach my 73 yard tins. 

Stay tuned for updates 
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Wow that's really cool. I urge new shooters to get 177 or 22 in 15 fpe or lower just because of the learning curve for the artillery hold and whatnot. I actually love heavy hitting springers though. My dad has an hw30 that's accurate enough for hunting out to 30 yards. Considering your hitting spinners out to 47 yards I'd say you have nothing to worry about. How's the barrel droop on that thing? Did you have to use any corrective rails or shims? I've been dreaming of an hw for a long time and was thinking about getting the 97 so I didn't have to worry about it but maybe I wouldn't need to worry about it anyway? Thanks for the post.
 
Wow that's really cool. I urge new shooters to get 177 or 22 in 15 fpe or lower just because of the learning curve for the artillery hold and whatnot. I actually love heavy hitting springers though. My dad has an hw30 that's accurate enough for hunting out to 30 yards. Considering your hitting spinners out to 47 yards I'd say you have nothing to worry about. How's the barrel droop on that thing? Did you have to use any corrective rails or shims? I've been dreaming of an hw for a long time and was thinking about getting the 97 so I didn't have to worry about it but maybe I wouldn't need to worry about it anyway? Thanks for the post.




The scope was mechanically centered and with out any droop compensation rings or shims I was about 1” high and to the left. The .25 barrel has an O-ring for a breach seal as apposed to the white cylinder seal on the smaller barrels so I don’t know if it’s locking up tighter and higher but I was expecting 6-8” of droop at 30. Happy with the outcome so definitely won’t have to bend the barrel at all yet
 
I'm sure shooting that .25 is a lot of fun especially on reactive targets. I'm sort of in the same boat. I've just received a .22 caliber HW95 barrel. I plan on installing it on my HW95 that is currently a .177.

I already have a HW95 in .22 but I've found that I enjoy the .22 a lot more than the .177. Probably because I mostly shoot at reactive targets. I plan on keeping one scoped and the second .22 will be used with irons.
 
After about 200 rounds the new spring is starting to settle in. Shot cycle is improving and hopefully will be similar to my .22 R9 once fully broken in. The FTT have proven to be very inconsistent as of late, I’ll drop 3 shots within a 1/2” then 2 will be 1”+ in any direction. The JSB kings are at least grouping consistently under an inch. This rifle is a blast to shoot! The big .25 pellets really hit the far tins with authority. Will it be a 1” 50 yard rifle? Probably not, but am I hitting my 4” tins at 73 yards with a LOUD smack? Every time!

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Awesome rifle, love the silencer, illegal here and as always nice shooting.

I have the 80k in .25. My buddy has it in .22. It’s amazing the difference of how much more damage the .25 does. As soon as the lake freeze’s I’m going to put
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 targets out to 100 yds. I did this half ass last year and found the .25 most accurate. Wind. It’s wicked because you can see the round fly with snow background.

Hit a squirrel with Hades .25 game over. 

I have a 90 and 97kt in .25. and more soon hopefully. I’ll never lose these. 
I enjoy shooting all the different cal. each has it’s challenge. Thanks for post.Crow 
 
There’s days when the wind and cold could rip your face off. And there’s days that are sunny and calm, that’s when I go. I’ll get out maybe three times this year just for curiosity sake. I’ll set my bench where I took the picture from which is my lower patio. I always cut an Olympic size rink for some shinny hockey which is always a blast. Crow 
 
Has anybody tried correcting droop by precision grinding a small amount off the back of the barrel block? Or from the inside of the receiver yoke. According to my calcs a 10" drop at 30 yards is about 0.5 degrees. To correct that in a breakbarrel would mean removing between .005" and .010".

The breech block face doesn't touch the face of the receiver. If that's what you are saying. To make the breech point upwards more, you would have to remove material from the bottom of breech, just above the chisel detent. 

But all of that is pointless really, since you can just bend the barrel upwards a very tiny amount to correct any issues. Takes no special equipment, and most importantly, if you go too far, you can just bend it back down. Take off too much with a grinder, and guess what? You're screwed or you will have to bend the barrel back down to fix it. 


 
Hi Sean.I'd really like to see your pellet culling results at 50 yds Hey crow, I have enjoyed my times in the adverse weather without hesitation. It makes me realize how connected I am to my environment.

No rain today in the forecast so I’ll be doing some shooting. Winds are 10-20 though coming from my 5 o’clock. I’ll do my best and post a pic up later on
 
Yes, most people either bend the barrel or use a drooper mount.

But, the Weihrauch design theoretically allows for an alternate fix. Their barrel blocks have have a lip at the back of the barrel block that comes down on a corresponding flat on the wedge pin in the receiver yoke. That's what stops the barrel from rotating through the receiver when you cock it. 

That contact point is about 1.5" aft of the barrel pivot. So, for a 15" long barrel, there's about a 10/1 movement ratio between the muzzle and the contact point. Let's assume you have about 1/8" droop at the muzzle. Just remove 0.012" from the contact point and the muzzle moves up 0.12", or about 1/8". That's about 1/2 degrees. Angle = arcsine (0.12/1.5) = 0.46 degrees. 

The UTG droop mount is rated for maximum 10" drop at 30 yards (1080 inches). That's also about 1/2 degrees. angle = arcsine (10/(1080)) = 0.53 degrees. So the UTG is only good for a 1/8" barrel droop. 

It's straightforward to precision grind .012" off the barrel block flat. Grinding the receiver wedge pin is more difficult, mainly because it's hard to get a mini-grinding bit between the yokes. 

Just wondering if anybody has tried it.
 
I've done it on FWBs that actually had breech face alignment issues. Same spot got material removed to square the face up to the receiver. 

If you'll notice on every HW I've looked at, the breech face is dead square with the receiver face. Even the ones with droop. So you remove that material from that ledge, and now you've affected the squareness of that gap. And also affected the tension of the lockup. 

Bend the barrel and it changes none of that. And it's completely reversible. And it also works for windage correction. 

That's why I don't do the machining on the breech. 
 
Has anybody tried correcting droop by precision grinding a small amount off the back of the barrel block? Or from the inside of the receiver yoke. According to my calcs a 10" drop at 30 yards is about 0.5 degrees. To correct that in a breakbarrel would mean removing between .005" and .010".

Yep....been there, done that....way to much work for the end result !!! To much risk of error so not worth the effort. A slight tweek (bend) to the barrel can fix the issue much easier and quicker and far less chance of causing a non repairable error. No need to over think a simple fix....