Question for the experts

[JimNM]

Be sure that you let the pressure out of the gun BEFORE you tear into the inner workings. A PCP holds enough pressure to really hurt you badly. There is/was a video of a guy working on a CO2 conversion gun; meaning lower pressure - that shows the gun throwing the valve through his thigh because he did not empty the pressure tank before he worked on it. He earned about a 1.25" hole through the muscle. Respect the energy held by our "toys".

 

[JasonBowlin]

JasonBowlin,

To get started, what caliber are you shooting, and how familiar are you with the teardown and reassembly of the Marauder? If you are not afraid to tinker with it, we can 100% help. I'm posting this here, instead of a private message, this way, all can see and help diagnose the problem, and get you up and running with better accuracy. 

If you would like to see a complete teardown and rebuild of a Marauder, I have several on my U Tube Channel, Field Target Tech. 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech

.22 caliber. I watched a 30min video of a guy changing to an aluminum lower tube and new valve and nylon hammer so I feel pretty confident that I could completely disassemble johnny5

 

[JasonBowlin]

Does anyone here have the dimensions of the degassing tool for marauder....I need to turn one on the lathe right quick....I know i can order it cheaper than i can make it but id like to work on this thing a bit over the holidays and i have the metal and the lathe now.



thanks in advance

 

[bucketboy]

I don’t know about the marauder but on a rapid/ Raw I replace the hammer spring with a piece of dowel and use the hammer adjuster to push the dowel that pushes the hammer that opens the valve and air vents from the barrel.



Bb

 

[Guest]

It's a standard thread you can find at the hardware store. I can't remember offhand which.

 

[JasonBowlin]

It's a standard thread you can find at the hardware store. I can't remember offhand which.

the thread is 3/8-24 I was just wondering the length...I’m sure it matters to make sure threads engage before valve is opened. 

 

[JasonBowlin]

I do believe this will work...gotta few things I gotta do and I’ll get back at it. 

 

[JasonBowlin]

Ok...proud to report that the handmade tool worked flawless and I’m currently here...just cleaning things as I go. I’m gonna stop here until I get further instructions. I did notice when taking it apart that the transfer tube has the top oring missing..it’s not in the barrel because for giggles I removed it as well. If I need new parts I guess now would be the time to change them out. 

 

[JimNM]

Congratulations, you are on the road to air gun bliss. Shoot'em good!

 

[JasonBowlin]

this is the oring mod the guy had me do way back when I first started. 

 

[bandg]

It is ok to want. That is on you.

#Powder burner experience is no guarantee of air gun success. Airguns are very particular about ammo, much more so than even the notoriously finicky . 22lr. That said, my own Mrod . 25 shoots 1/2 the sized group my fancy . 22lr will shoot. 

#Pellets are drag stabilized, where as bullets are spin stabilized. Spin a pellet too fast, and it will diverge from controlled flight after a short distance (25 yards...). You spin pellets too fast by pushing them too fast. Slow it down with a heavier pellet.

#Some pellets do not agree with the barrel designs. My Mrod does not like the H&N line of pellets (won't stay on a 4" target at 40 yards) but it loves the AA diabolo... Printing clover leafed groups all day long. 

#You can sneer at the Mrod, a decent gun with a lot of potential. You are missing out on the skill to detect what the missing performance is caused by. For me, the hunt for the right tune is very satisfying.

#As a skilled technical shooter, I would think that you are made of sterner stuff that that. Some guys just want to throw money at $2,000 guns and expect the gun to be perfect.

Welcome to AGN, this place is chock fill of good people and great advice.

"You spin pellets too fast by pushing them too fast." Depends on twist rate as well, not just velocity. 

 

[JasonBowlin]

Ok so I went ahead and tore it completely down...only thing still in one piece is the valve lol. 

 

[Xbowsniper]

JasonBowlin,

Now that you have it apart, take the air tube, and where the valve stem is towards the rear of the tube, polish that "bore", so to speak. I did mine with a paintball barrel swab, with a dab of polishing compound. Make it like a mirror. Do the same with the hammer as well. If its the factory hammer, the finish can be a little rough. Being that you said you have a lathe, you can remove the striker from the hammer, and put a longer bolt in it to hold it in the lathe chuck. When removing, there is a set screw in the side of the hammer. In between this setscrew and the striker threads, is a microscopic teflon piece that is white. Do not loose that, it's a VERY important part of the equation. After you do all of this, I'll walk you through the next step.

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 

 

[JasonBowlin]

Tim I polished the hammer way back when and in the lathe just as you described, it’s not perfect but slick and shiny with minimal material removal. I didn’t however do the tube, will do that now. 

 

[kkarmical]

Here's o-ring list, so you don't have to order the overpriced kit.

I use the oringstore, but there are others out there.

How does the crown to your barrel look?

https://www.theoringstore.com/store/

 

[JasonBowlin]

So if I polish inside of tube up to where the screw goes in the valve I should be good correct?

 

[JasonBowlin]

Here's o-ring list, so you don't have to order the overpriced kit.

I use the oringstore, but there are others out there.

How does the crown to your barrel look?

https://www.theoringstore.com/store/

 

[JasonBowlin]

polished

 

[JasonBowlin]

Better picture 

this helps a lot! 

 

[Xbowsniper]

Jason, 

Yes, you do not want to go any further, as the valve orings may not seal. Another thing that I forgot to mention, is the holes in the air tube from the muzzle to the valve, particularly the hole of the gauge block can be chamfered, to avoid cutting the orings from the gauge block and the valve. If you do this, you might have to LIGHTLY polish inside of that hole after chamfering to insure no burrs. You can get a tool from Archer Airguns to plug that hole, and save the o rings. Some guys take the gauge block, reinsert it so the smooth side of the block is showing (not the gauge threads). Then they mix up plumbing epoxy putty, and stick it in the hole for a couple of minutes and remove it so it doesn't bond. Let it harden, and you have a nice o ring tool .

While the barrel is off, now is your chance to change the barrel oring at the breech. Before you do that, now you can thoroughly clean the barrel. Being that it is removed, you may use regular bore cleaning solvents with patches, and I would scrub the bore with a nylon brush.

When you get all these steps complete, we'll go to the next step.

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech