Puncher Breaker mods?

[garymck]

Hi,

I am new to shooting and purchased a .22 Kral Puncher Breaker. I've only put about 150 shots through it but have been very please with its accuracy, (have managed groups 2 .pellet widths wide a few times at 20 meters) though not to please with my inconsistency

One of things I've bound is that the trigger is a bit on the heavy side causing me to pull my shots a little. I have adjusted the trigger as best I can to lighten it, but was wondering if there are any mods that could be done to make it very light. At my local target club I had the chance to shoot a .22 rimfire target rifle that had a truly magnificent trigger with a light distinctive first stage and a very light pull to fire. Is there any way I could get the PB trigger close to that ?

Also, Is there any benefit to fitting a regulator? If so which one, is there much difference in performance between brands? Upgraditis has struck...

Beginner questions I know, but no-one near me is an airgunner, so can't find a mentor..

TIA

Gary

 

[JimNM]

How did you adjust the trigger? (there are two different things to adjust...)

The regulator will keep the standard deviation to a smaller margin over the shot string- but it is not needed so much on my own, unmodified Puncher Breaker. My SD is around 5 FPS and the extreme spread is about 30 fps. You can always try for more consistency - but there is a point of diminishing return.

 

[garymck]

Hi,

I removed the action from the stock and adjusted the screw that adjusts the sear engagement - loosened it until it wouldn't cock, then tightened it until it would just cock again. I did not adjust the spring that I think does the first stage. 

cheers

Gary

 

[JimNM]

Sounds about right. Shoot'em good. Practice isolating the trigger finger from the rest of the hand. The three other fingers on the trigger hand can cause you to pull off target if you happen to squeeze them sympathetically. 

 

[Yossshooter]

you can also take the sear and polish all the contact surfaces to a mirror finish, granted this will only get you so far.(dont remove any material just polish)

Another thing is as you mentioned change the spring in the connecting bar to a lighter one that way you can control the weight for the first stage, again this will only take you so far.



just my .2 cents

 

[garymck]

Thanks for the suggestion, I have a Dremel and polishing kit so I will give this a try...

cheers

Gary

 

[MikeVV]

you can also take the sear and polish all the contact surfaces to a mirror finish, granted this will only get you so far.(dont remove any material just polish)

just my .2 cents

Yoss -

That (in italics) is an impossible task..!

Polishing metal IS...removing metal..! You either don't polish and don't remove material. or you do polish and DO remove material. You can't have it both ways.



Mike

 

[Imold]

Anything I’ve done to a sear has been with a Q tip and polishing compound, some refer to it as the 25 cent trigger job, just enough to smooth it out.