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Pulsar Thermion 2 XQ50 Question

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Indubitably, the thermal sensor(s) used in these scopes are distinctly clear from all footage that I’ve seen. Even in fog or mist. Today is the first time I’ve noteced a “freeze zero” feature. Has anyone used this feature before? If so, how does it work?

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I agree. I have looked at the thermal Pulsars too. I traded in my ATN 4k Pro for the 5th gen version and I'm hoping that with the size/weight reduction my scope won't weigh more than my gun! LOL. I have a Pard NV007v clip-on so I am in both camps. The Pulsar with both the IR and the thermal is very interesting, kind of the best of both worlds, but I haven't seen/heard anything about it and I wonder if it can really be as good as a "dedicated" scope. Also trying to get use to the price of a good thermal scope and the fact that they definitely wear out!
 
The IR/Thermal combo scopes that I’ve seen are not cheap. They were 5 digit scopes from what I recall. If you have or can save the funds and have use for thermal optics, they definitely open an entirely different door for you out in the field. I see things I would normally miss. I caught what appeared to be a rat in a tree the other night in my thermal scanner. I think it picks up frogs as well. I saw rodents and frogs moving around. Fun stuff to use and when it comes down to business, you can really clean up if you have time to get some well placed shots off. I think the Thermion 2 XQ50 would be right up my alley. I would just have to get used to it being shaped like a traditional scope.
 
I just don't know if I have that many night hunting opportunities. Most of my shooting is pesting and I do have some farms that I go out to that I use the AGM monocular coupled with the Pard or ATN and so far that has worked quite well. I have been trying to line up some feral hog hunting but have not been successful and most of the places where they are overrun is just North of the Red River! A good thermal would definitely bring out more opportunities, but the cost of a decent one is worth 1.5 - 2 rifles with scopes!
 
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@Ezana4CE that is exactly what that feature does. You take the shot then freeze the image and make your adjustments. Only tricky thing is, if you are not on a bench rest setup, it can be difficult to press the button at the exact spot you need dead centered on the bullseye. But not to worry, you can freeze the frame as many times as it takes to get right. It's also nice you can store several zero distances per profile if I remember correct(you can at bare minimum save multiple profiles if not multiple zeros within each profile) . So if you are hunting 100 yards just select that zero from the saved profiles.

Also I recommend buying from some place that specializes in thermal and night vision. Normally you won't have to pay sales taxes at these places and you might get even better than advertised pricing with a phone call. 😉

Thermal is awesome. I've been an addict for around 7 years now. I've had the high end stuff, some lower end stuff, and some mid range from (nvision,pulsar, and iray). But now is a great time to get into thermal. The price point you pay for the performance you get is unbelievable compared to 7 years ago when I started. And the warranties have come a long way also. Now some units have 10 year warranties although the normal seems to be 3-5 years in my experience.

Happy shooting and good luck with that rabbit hole! $$$$ 😆
 
@Ezana4CE that is exactly what that feature does. You take the shot then freeze the image and make your adjustments. Only tricky thing is, if you are not on a bench rest setup, it can be difficult to press the button at the exact spot you need dead centered on the bullseye. But not to worry, you can freeze the frame as many times as it takes to get right. It's also nice you can store several zero distances per profile if I remember correct(you can at bare minimum save multiple profiles if not multiple zeros within each profile) . So if you are hunting 100 yards just select that zero from the saved profiles.

Also I recommend buying from some place that specializes in thermal and night vision. Normally you won't have to pay sales taxes at these places and you might get even better than advertised pricing with a phone call. 😉

Thermal is awesome. I've been an addict for around 7 years now. I've had the high end stuff, some lower end stuff, and some mid range from (nvision,pulsar, and iray). But now is a great time to get into thermal. The price point you pay for the performance you get is unbelievable compared to 7 years ago when I started. And the warranties have come a long way also. Now some units have 10 year warranties although the normal seems to be 3-5 years in my experience.

Happy shooting and good luck with that rabbit hole! $$$$ 😆
I guess the sighting in process on the XQ50 is where a completely hot or reflective target comes in handy. I'm not trying to spend $60 - $100 on a 5 pack of thermal targets. I'm thinking of using a sheet of foil to sight in this scope. I've seen a video where a man shooting an AR build uses the heat from the bullet to pick up his initial POI (on a target with plywood backing) and freeze the frame to them move his reticle. Since airgun projectiles don't get nearly as hot after shooting, I'm thinking that a hole in a sheet of foil (placed in the sun) with something cool behind it like ice or an empty space allowing cooler air to flow behind the foil can provide enough contrast to capture an image to use the initial POI for zeroing the scope using the freeze feature. Any thoughts on this?
 
The pellet impact will show in wood also. I use a hand warmer taped to a target or if you have steel plates you shoot at use a torch and heat up a spot. I thought I would be able to see the heat from hitting the metal but you can't.

The post earlier I made of shooting the steel coyote target was when I was sighting in at 100 yards. I just hit the metal plate with a torch and it was easy to see.
 
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Hot targets don't work as well as foil tape or ice cubes. Heated targets have an expanding heat signature that makes a poor aim point for fine tuning adjustments.

In the picture below, the target is a sheet of plywood set at 100 yards. The white spot is an ice cube in plastic bag and stapled to the plywood. The small black spot is a bullet impact. The large black spot is the end of a lit cigarette. The cigarette is sticking out of a bullet hole so that the heat source is not right next to the plywood.

Scope is a Pulsar Trail 2 XQ50.

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@Hal4son Is this a daytime photo? Either way, that type of contrast is what I was hoping to see with foil. If it works well with plywood alone, even better.
Yes. Middle of the day. Works just as well at night. The heat from the bullet doesn't last long. Once you fire a round, get in the scope adjustment mode - increase magnification - freeze frame - make adjustment. Easy peasey.

ETA-that bullet hole was from a 243
 
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I just thought of something. I wonder how freezing a few sheets of wet paper would hold up for sighing in a thermal scope.
An old thick phone book or the like soaked in water just warmer than ambient outdoor temperature would probably be ideal. The thickness would retain the target's heat signature longer and not being freezing cold would keep the thermal conductivity from the impact from dissipating too quickly also.
 
An old thick phone book or the like soaked in water just warmer than ambient outdoor temperature would probably be ideal. The thickness would retain the target's heat signature longer and not being freezing cold would keep the thermal conductivity from the impact from dissipating too quickly too.
@Airgun-hobbyist Interesting, but where would one find phonebooks nowadays? I may try something similar. A few sheets of frozen paper seems much easier. I'm thinking that I can set everything up then the last thing to do is to staple the paper to some wood or cardboard. Once the projectile punches through, the contrast created by the difference between the temp of the paper and the warmer air flowing through it should be pretty evident.
 
@Airgun-hobbyist Interesting, but where would one find phonebooks nowadays? I may try something similar. A few sheets of frozen paper seems much easier. I'm thinking that I can set everything up then the last thing to do is to staple the paper to some wood or cardboard. Once the projectile punches through, the contrast created by the difference between the temp of the paper and the warmer air flowing through it should be pretty evident.
Anything with enough mass to hold the impact's heat signature while fiddling with the electronics would be the key to success.