PSA SWFA SS fixed 16x and 20× milky cloudy issue

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Boombots74

Member
Dec 6, 2015
485
18
NJ, United States
Guys,

Consider this a PSA for the fixed SWFA SS 16x and 20x scopes. First off, I like the SWFA scopes, its a good bang for your buck. But you may think its garbage because of a milky-cloudy image. Due to the design of the scope there is too much light going into the scope. I know, you may think I am crazy but its true. I spoke to Skyler over at SWFA and he knew what the issue was. The design of the fixed 16x and 20x has this issue. The higher the magnification, the harder it is to get a clear picture. It's critical to be at the right distance (eye relief), and centered to the ocular more than any other scope I have owned. There is no margin for error. If you are even a "CH" off you will have a milky-cloudy picture.

So before you decide to throw out the scope because it's not clear, take a paper towel tube and hold it in front of the objective bell. You will notice immediately a crystal clear image. I was baffled myself. So what do you do, can't go to the range with a paper towel tube hanging off your PCP. Great thing is there is a solution, sun shades. I have had multiple scopes ranging from $800 and under. Never had the need to use a sun shade, ever. With the SWFA fixed scopes, the more magnification you have, the more sun shades you will need. Not as an option but as a necessity. I added 3 to my 20x and 2 to my 16x. Try it out, you won't regret it. 

Shoot safe and shoot straight!

Boombots74
 
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It's not 'too much light going into the tube' as such.

It is glare due to direct light from outside the field of view hitting the lens and is more pronounced in certain situations like low winter sunlight.
Happens to any scope but those where the lens is not deeply recessed into the objective bell are worse. The lens coatings have an effect too.
It's the reason sunshades are made in the first place.

Didn't know that these SWFA scopes had a flaw like this to such an extent. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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"Macros"It's not 'too much light going into the tube' as such.
It is glare due to direct light from outside the field of view hitting the lens and is more pronounced in certain situations like low winter sunlight.
Happens to any scope but those where the lens is not deeply recessed into the objective bell are worse. The lens coatings have an effect too.
It's the reason sunshades are made in the first place.
Didn't know that these SWFA scopes had a flaw like this to such an extent. Thanks for the heads up.
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Yes one way or another its the light that is causing that cloudy milky issue. IMO also right about it being a flaw. Really wish SWFA would just included a few sun shades along with the scope. Its a bummer to buy a scope and have this issue show up totally unexpected. 

I have had my hand on scopes $800 and under. Never, was I ever required to use a sun shade on any of those scopes. Looking through my SWFA SS fixed 10x, does not have this issue, my hawke, meopta, nada. 

Good thing now is the scope is just as clear as my other scopes for half the price. 
 
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"Uglyjohn"I'm glad you made this post. When I looked thru my SS16X I thought my cataracts had returned. I only had one sun shade and that didn't solve the problem. The 16x went back to SWFA and I'm waiting for a SS10X exchange. If all goes well with this one I'll probably pop for a 3-15 when/if they go on sale again. Uj
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UglyJohn, 

Yeah 1 sun shade will not do it, then I did 2, it was better but 3 is the magic number for me for the 20x. The 16x 2 sun shades worked out.
 
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Sorry guys, was on a snow boarding trip in VT.. scope length from end to end with 3 sun shades is 20-3/4". Here she is on my Bobcat MK1

AcJjH2o.jpg
 
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Davemac18

From what Skyler over at SWFA has told me and made me to believe is yes. Yes all of them are like that. But, he also mentioned it is more apparent in the winter with the haze of the snow.

Prior to me calling he had went over to the shelves and picked one up to see what another customer was referrimg to. Sure enough the condition the customer was referring to is present in the scope he just picked up. So with some great detective work he figured out the fix was sun shades.

Still IMO a great scope even with this inconvenience of the added length.

 
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My SWFA 10x had the same issue. It was driving me nutz!!
I currently have one sun shade installed and that has done well. I tried the honey comb sniper glare thingy but that made the picture a bit blurry.
Another thing I found to have helped was to adjust the eye relief distance you have the scope set at. (There seems to be a sweet spot) I ended up moving my scope a bit further away and that helped also.

Other than the glare issue. I really love the SWFA SS for it price point it's hard to beat!
 
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Hmm for me the 'too much light' argument does not make sense. It is all about the glare. So the lens is not transmitting the light coming from the sides clearly and that causes the image to go milky.

If the light was coming too strong, you could just put sunglasses on (operate the light AFTER the transmission in the scope) and you would get the same result.

If the sunglasses do not help, the problem is within the scope itself as the picture is ruined BEFORE it gets to the sunglasses.
 
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"Slayerious"Hmm for me the 'too much light' argument does not make sense. It is all about the glare. So the lens is not transmitting the light coming from the sides clearly and that causes the image to go milky.
If the light was coming too strong, you could just put sunglasses on (operate the light AFTER the transmission in the scope) and you would get the same result.
If the sunglasses do not help, the problem is within the scope itself as the picture is ruined BEFORE it gets to the sunglasses.
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Glare....light....whats the difference? It is an issue with light. Want to call it glare.....sure go ahead. Haha. You want to call the image ruined....sure call it what you want. 

 
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There is a difference. If there was literally too much light coming in, the image would get BRIGHTER.

As the light glares in unwanted directions within the lens, it becomes milky.

I guess I was just pointing that this is not a feature by any means.

By quoting yourself, you too say there is an issue with light. Now you can't really say that when there is an issue with light inside of a scope, image would not get worse too.

I would also say that milky image in a scope that should be clear is a ruined image.
 
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"Slayerious"There is a difference. If there was literally too much light coming in, the image would get BRIGHTER.
As the light glares in unwanted directions within the lens, it becomes milky.
I guess I was just pointing that this is not a feature by any means.
By quoting yourself, you too say there is an issue with light. Now you can't really say that when there is an issue with light inside of a scope, image would not get worse too.
I would also say that milky image in a scope that should be clear is a ruined image.
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To be perfectly clear. There is nothing wrong with the scope. It just has a tiny tiny margin of error to get a clear sight picture. If you are even the slightest off, then and only then do you get a milky picture. The sun shade somehow makes eye relief much greater, giving you a clear sight picture all the time.
 
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I'm hoping that the 3-15 that I just ordered won't have this issue. It's sort of annoying on my 10x. But I just love the fine reticle, toughness and the clarity of the SWFA. I just wish it wouldn't have that milky haze.

Maybe some expert on optics can explain why some scopes have this issue and some don't. None of my other scopes have this problem. The SWFA seems really finicky on head position when looking through the scope.
 
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Its the quality of the lenses and coatings and just the quality of the scope in general. You want allot of light entering a scope thats what gives it the ability to be used in lower light conditions and also a crisp clear image. The problem is in the quality of the scope, lenses, lens coatings and correct alignment that makes the scope produce a lower quality image not the amount of light entering the scope. If the coatings on the lens are not good or the lenses are misaligned or the inside of the tube isnt coated properly the image suffers from light not being focused properly causing aberrations or glare. My higher quality leupold, vortex, nightforce, burris and other scopes dont have issues with quality of picture due to light in fact the more light you get the better the image looks. Thats why people say you get what you pay for especially in things like optics where it costs allot of money to make lenses that are high quality with the latest greatest coatings. Cheaper scopes just dont have the same quality lenses as higher priced ones. They can still be used you just have to be realistic in the performance and what to expect out of lower priced items.
 
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