Air Arms ProSport Trigger Adjustment - Fires when safety disengaged.

[dormitionskete]

Our ProSport has developed the tendency to fire sometimes when I disengage the safety. It doesn't happen all of the time. Just every now and then.

I don't want to go dinking around with the trigger a lot since I've never adjusted a trigger before, and the manual says if you don't know what you're doing, to take it to somebody who does. And I'm happy enough with the trigger as it is; though it is a bit lighter than I'd like.

Question: If I adjust the Trigger Weight Spring (behind the trigger), turning it maybe ~1/4 turn clockwise, would that likely remedy this situation without making it necessary for me to adjust the other two adjustment screws?

It looks to me like it would; but I don't want to screw things up and make it worse than it is.

 

[Feinwerk]

@dormitionskete ,
It sounds like your trigger has been adjusted too light by turning one or both of the adjustment screws clockwise / inward too far, limiting sear engagement between the bottom and middle sear. As you pull the trigger, the first stage screw pushes up on the bottom sear and starts to separate the contact points on the opposite side of the pivot where it meets the middle sear.

Have you done a bump fire test? With the rifle cocked, safety released, and aimed down range, give the stock a bump with your fist to see if it fires. That's another indicator of insufficient sear engagement. And don't forget to put a pellet in it during testing because you don't want a dry fire.

When you shoot it now, do you still have two stages in the trigger pull? If not, then you can tell that the first stage screw is in too far and is the one essentially pre-releasing the bottom sear before the second stage touches. If you have a second stage and it is super light, then maybe just try backing out the first stage screw.

Also, if you do have a second stage, does the trigger return forward to the un-pulled position when you release it? That's how you know if your trigger return spring is too light in my opinion. Either that or the assembly needs lubrication.

You can see that the first stage screw is farther away from the pivot point on the bottom sear and has the most leverage, and least amount of felt trigger pull force. This is the screw that disengages the sear most of the way until the second stage screw touches the bottom sear. The second stage screw is closer to the pivot and requires more force to continue moving it until the sear contact releases completely and the rest of the sears release for firing.. That's supposed to give you the "wall" that you feel just before the bottom sear releases.

I believe I have the identical trigger in my tx200mk III. The factory greases dried up and got sticky. I had to clean them all out and I reapplied molybdenum disulfide grease to all the sear contact points. You probably don't need to do any polishing, but if you do, I would only use one of the cream polishes such as Flitz or Simichrome, and burnish with q-tips to get a light microscopic polish on the sliding sear engagement surfaces. Then clean and apply a light coat of Moly grease.

It's truly amazing what these cream polishing compounds can do just with rubbing from a rag or q-tip on steel and other metal surfaces. You can see microscopic metal coming off on the q-tip as it turns gray or black as you go. Be sure to clean away the residue after polishing.

you can try backing off the first stage screw without doing anything else, but if the rifle has any age to it, I recommend cleaning and lubricating as described.

Good luck with your repairs and let us know how it turns out. Shoot us a pic or two if you take it apart.

Regards,
Feinwerk

 

[dormitionskete]

@dormitionskete ,
It sounds like your trigger has been adjusted too light by turning one or both of the adjustment screws clockwise / inward too far, limiting sear engagement between the bottom and middle sear. As you pull the trigger, the first stage screw pushes up on the bottom sear and starts to separate the contact points on the opposite side of the pivot where it meets the middle sear.

Have you done a bump fire test? With the rifle cocked, safety released, and aimed down range, give the stock a bump with your fist to see if it fires. That's another indicator of insufficient sear engagement. And don't forget to put a pellet in it during testing because you don't want a dry fire.

When you shoot it now, do you still have two stages in the trigger pull? If not, then you can tell that the first stage screw is in too far and is the one essentially pre-releasing the bottom sear before the second stage touches. If you have a second stage and it is super light, then maybe just try backing out the first stage screw.

Also, if you do have a second stage, does the trigger return forward to the un-pulled position when you release it? That's how you know if your trigger return spring is too light in my opinion. Either that or the assembly needs lubrication.

You can see that the first stage screw is farther away from the pivot point on the bottom sear and has the most leverage, and least amount of felt trigger pull force. This is the screw that disengages the sear most of the way until the second stage screw touches the bottom sear. The second stage screw is closer to the pivot and requires more force to continue moving it until the sear contact releases completely and the rest of the sears release for firing.. That's supposed to give you the "wall" that you feel just before the bottom sear releases.

I believe I have the identical trigger in my tx200mk III. The factory greases dried up and got sticky. I had to clean them all out and I reapplied molybdenum disulfide grease to all the sear contact points. You probably don't need to do any polishing, but if you do, I would only use one of the cream polishes such as Flitz or Simichrome, and burnish with q-tips to get a light microscopic polish on the sliding sear engagement surfaces. Then clean and apply a light coat of Moly grease.

It's truly amazing what these cream polishing compounds can do just with rubbing from a rag or q-tip on steel and other metal surfaces. You can see microscopic metal coming off on the q-tip as it turns gray or black as you go. Be sure to clean away the residue after polishing.

you can try backing off the first stage screw without doing anything else, but if the rifle has any age to it, I recommend cleaning and lubricating as described.

Good luck with your repairs and let us know how it turns out. Shoot us a pic or two if you take it apart.

Regards,
Feinwerk

Thank you for your response. It is much appreciated.

It passes the bump test.

It has an extremely long first stage. Once you reach that second stage, you barely have to breathe on it for it to go off.

When the gun is cocked, with the safety on, the trigger returns fine. With the safety off, if you start to pull the trigger, but stop before the second stage, it does not return. If you pull it just a little bit, it will return; but the closer you get to the second stage, the less it returns.

The airgun is not quite two years old, and nobody has messed with the trigger. This is how it came from the factory.

While I have not been able to reproduce the error, what I think has been happening is that I ride around our property in a golf cart from time to time throughout the day shooting the various pests we have here. I think what is happening is that I'll cock the gun to shoot a critter, but won't be able to get a shot off at it before it runs and hides or something. So I'll put the rifle into its gun rack, with the safety on, and proceed on my way. I think its getting bumped up and down on our gravel road is affecting it, so that when I go to shoot the next critter, it fires when I disengage the safety -- unless I recock the rifle first.

Is there any remedy for that?

Any suggestions would be *greatly* appreciated.

It's not the safest situation in the world right now.

 

[WoodWelder]

This might be of some help?
I'm not suggesting doing everything on this video but I'm sure there is a segment how to adjust it properly?

 

[dormitionskete]

This might be of some help?
I'm not suggesting doing everything on this video but I'm sure there is a segment how to adjust it properly?

Thanks, but unfortunately, it doesn't talk about how to adjust it. I did some searching about it and found this link, which does talk about it a little. But as I said, I'd rather not dink with it any more than I have to, lest I mess it up worse.

American Airguns - TX200 Trigger Adjustment

American Airguns Website - The first website about airguns, air pistol, air rifle, and accessories.

airguns.net

I appreciate it, though.

 

[Feinwerk]

@dormitionskete ,
It sure sounds like your first stage screw is turned in clockwise too far. I would start by backing it out a half a turn at a time until proper operation returns.

Also, I would never choose to keep my gun cocked and on safety while transporting it. If I don't take a shot, I decock my rifle. I'm not sure how the pro sport works, check your manual for the recommended procedure.

On the tx200mkiii, it is possible to decock the rifle by pulling the cocking lever all the way down, holding it securely, and pulling the trigger, while securing the butt of the rifle on your torso or thigh, just as you would if you were cocking it. If you pull too far you will re-engage the safeties so you have to feel the tension and back off from the point that will allow you to click the safety off while still holding the cocking lever firmly. The Piston will release and the main spring will then push against the cocking arm until it hits the anti bear trap mechanism. Then with your trigger hand you have to press and hold the bear trap release button on the right side of the receiver and carefully manipulate and loosen the cocking lever, letting it return very slowly and securely parallel to the barrel. Then you can release the bear trap button and the rifle is completely safe for transport with a pellet in the chamber so that all you have to do is cock and shoot next time.

Good luck,

Feinwerk

 

[dormitionskete]

@dormitionskete ,
It sure sounds like your first stage screw is turned in clockwise too far. I would start by backing it out a half a turn at a time until proper operation returns.

Also, I would never choose to keep my gun cocked and on safety while transporting it. If I don't take a shot, I decock my rifle. I'm not sure how the pro sport works, check your manual for the recommended procedure.

On the tx200mkiii, it is possible to decock the rifle by pulling the cocking lever all the way down, holding it securely, and pulling the trigger, while securing the butt of the rifle on your torso or thigh, just as you would if you were cocking it. If you pull too far you will re-engage the safeties so you have to feel the tension and back off from the point that will allow you to click the safety off while still holding the cocking lever firmly. The Piston will release and the main spring will then push against the cocking arm until it hits the anti bear trap mechanism. Then with your trigger hand you have to press and hold the bear trap release button on the right side of the receiver and carefully manipulate and loosen the cocking lever, letting it return very slowly and securely parallel to the barrel. Then you can release the bear trap button and the rifle is completely safe for transport with a pellet in the chamber so that all you have to do is cock and shoot next time.

Good luck,

Feinwerk

@Feinwerk - Thank you! I really appreciate it.

I'm not sure if a ProSport can be safely decocked. Anybody out there have info about that?

From what I understand, the ProSport and TX200 share the same power plant, except the ProSport does not have a bear trap.

We have an HW97K, and they say absolutely DO NOT try to decock it, or you will break it.

You say to back out the first stage screw until proper operation returns. What do you mean by "proper operation"?

 

[Feinwerk]

Proper operation of the trigger: you feel distinct 1st & 2nd stages while pulling, fires only when you pull the trigger.

I've never handled an HW97. They are highly regarded. I have trouble believing it can't be decocked. I wouldn't own a springer that can't be decocked. Decocking a tx200mkiii may not be recommended by some, but it sure can be performed harmlessly and safely. I suspect yours can be also.

Feinwerk

 

[marflow 777]

a correct two stage trigger is when the adjustment screw DO NOT touch the sear
now many of believe we have two stage triggers but well do because the first stage has been adjusted out of it and is being used as the trigger take up screw and at the same time setting the sear to release and if the second screw is close behind you have a gun that fires easily
is a one stage trigger bad NOPE
now is it easy to adjust a trigger in a springer rifle with seeing what you are doing NOPE again
you have to find a point and tell yourself that is good enough and being greedy will make you come here and post my gun keep discharging before i want it to
with this system it looks like you could get so greedy that the piston would not lock back
whenever you have a gun that has been adjusted to close to the point of firing take the first screw and turn it back 1/2 turn and always write it down and the second screw do the same and test if that solves the problem you are done
remember you are going for that's GOOD ENOUGH

just my opinion

 

[dormitionskete]

Proper operation of the trigger: you feel distinct 1st & 2nd stages while pulling, fires only when you pull the trigger.

I've never handled an HW97. They are highly regarded. I have trouble believing it can't be decocked. I wouldn't own a springer that can't be decocked. Decocking a tx200mkiii may not be recommended by some, but it sure can be performed harmlessly and safely. I suspect yours can be also.

Feinwerk

a correct two stage trigger is when the adjustment screw DO NOT touch the sear
now many of believe we have two stage triggers but well do because the first stage has been adjusted out of it and is being used as the trigger take up screw and at the same time setting the sear to release and if the second screw is close behind you have a gun that fires easily
is a one stage trigger bad NOPE
now is it easy to adjust a trigger in a springer rifle with seeing what you are doing NOPE again
you have to find a point and tell yourself that is good enough and being greedy will make you come here and post my gun keep discharging before i want it to
with this system it looks like you could get so greedy that the piston would not lock back
whenever you have a gun that has been adjusted to close to the point of firing take the first screw and turn it back 1/2 turn and always write it down and the second screw do the same and test if that solves the problem you are done
remember you are going for that's GOOD ENOUGH

just my opinion

@Feinwerk and @marflow 777 - Thank you both very much. I think I'm going to give it a try. I was a little nervous about it at first; but you've given me enough info to go on that I'm not so scared of it now. Very much appreciated !!!

 

[boscoebrea]

It not that hard, take your time, you will develope a feel for it, your springer is not safe as of now..It does not take much to adjust it, what I mean is not a lot of turning of the screwdriver. Have a small screwdriver that fits. When you get the feel for it you do not need to cock your gun,you can feel the stages..
Develop a feel,remeber to light of a trigger is what most likely causes the gun to fire on safety;Also the gun will not cock..