Problem 787965788 stupid hatsan

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Can you use a utg 20 moa elevated picatinny mount ? with low rings ?
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Unfortunately I can’t use different rings on this bc if the scope that’s on it. It moves from rifle to rifle so the rings used have to be bake to work in all of them with the correct height. 


I could use some sort of 20 or so moa rail. Wonder what the measurement of a 20 moa rail is. Not even sure that would be enough!
 
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I have 4 Hatsans and let's face it, they are not FX's. They are often a little out of plumb and require special attention. My Bully required adjustable mounts to be able to get the scope to have a centered reticle. However, that being said, my Flash and Vectis 22's are very powerful and needed little scope attention. I do have a red dot on my Vectis and it is amazingly accurate with that. These guns also shoot slugs very well with their extra power.
 
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Can you use a utg 20 moa elevated picatinny mount ? with low rings ?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I can’t use different rings on this bc if the scope that’s on it. It moves from rifle to rifle so the rings used have to be bake to work in all of them with the correct height. 


I could use some sort of 20 or so moa rail. Wonder what the measurement of a 20 moa rail is. Not even sure that would be enough!
Click to expand...


You could remove material from the top of the front post under the rail so that no shims are required. Use a caliper to scribe around it first and then remove material down to the line.

1581955448_3014271995e4ab9781cbf68.68999473_FP -.jpg

 
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Can you use a utg 20 moa elevated picatinny mount ? with low rings ?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I can’t use different rings on this bc if the scope that’s on it. It moves from rifle to rifle so the rings used have to be bake to work in all of them with the correct height. 


I could use some sort of 20 or so moa rail. Wonder what the measurement of a 20 moa rail is. Not even sure that would be enough!
Click to expand...


You could remove material from the top of the front post under the rail so that no shims are required. Use a caliper to scribe around it first and then remove material down to the line.

1581955448_3014271995e4ab9781cbf68.68999473_FP -.jpg
Click to expand...

Funny you say this bc I was going to remove a few shims from rear and do that same thing to the front. So that I have a tad on each end lol. 
 
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Funny you say this bc I was going to remove a few shims from rear and do that same thing to the front. So that I have a tad on each end lol.
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No need for shims if you take it off the front, you'll have a permanent fix. You could attach a temporary rear block to the gun to get the angle right and then use self adhesive sandpaper on the bottom of an aluminum 2 foot level or anything else suitable. Only put the sandpaper where it contacts the front post and the blank area will slide on the temporary rear block. Repeat as necessary to get your scope optically centered. A temporary front block can be attached to the front of the rail if you want to put the same angle on the rear attaching point. Take your time and it'll look like it came that way.
 
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So wonder if there is any change if the barrel is not exactly int he same spot front and back. I removed the set screws on the barrel thinking i might be able to spin it for a different reason. I may have shifted a tad front or backward but i am sure not much if any. I know the spin of the barrel is n ot off as it has a flat spot where it has to be to even tighten down the set screws.



I also looked at a possible way to shim the barrel up just a hair as if you look at the gap between the air cylinder and the barrel id for sure falls when you get toward the nose of the air cylinder. not sure how much that would make a different but i will see if i can get a measurement tonight and post that.
 
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Here are measurements on the rifle without a moderator on the end of the barrel.

This is from the barrel to the air cylinder.
Barrel at breach -.155
Barrel at end of air cyl before ht smaller end cap - .125

This is from the bottom of the rail scope mount to the top of the barrel this is with the shims in place
At breach - .781
at end of air cyl before ht smaller end cap - .705

This is from the bottom of the rail scope mount to the top of the barrel this is without the shims in place
At breach - .703
at end of air cyl before ht smaller end cap - .701

Hope this all makes sense.
 
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This is from the bottom of the rail scope mount to the top of the barrel this is without the shims in place
At breach - .703
at end of air cyl before ht smaller end cap - .701

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So it sounds like the scope rail is parallel to the barrel (within .002"). It seems like your problem may be with your scope or mounts.
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Only problem there is this same exact scope has been on 4 high powered rifles in the last 2 weeks as well as one an hour before this issue and as of this morning it was placed an an all new rifle it’s never been on before with absolutely no issues. Granted this is the only pcp it’s ever been on. 
 
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Not a fan of plastic credit card as a shim...you can buy steel shim stock from McMaster-Carr in various thickness from .001" -***. I have seen plastic shim kits also if that is what you prefer.
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I didn’t see any since in taking the time to make them out of metal when I had an old credit card close by. That and it was an trial and error deal until I could figure out a true solution or the exact problem 
 
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