Pricey scope leveling tool

Waste of money ... want level, shoot and fine tune so when Shot level .. pellets fall in line vertically 10 & 50 yards ... get an even pellet fall from gravity your level.

Or u can pick any distance and use ur turret. 
Take a shot, turn the turret up or down 2-3 revolution, aim at same poi, shoot again. 
If the impacts are on the same plane, up and down. Good enough for me. 


this requires the gun be held equally level for both shots 

 
Don't know about this brand, but I purchased one just like it from Brownells over 10 years ago at a time when I had to mount several scopes at a time. It works brilliantly and takes only about 5 minutes to set up a scope cant free. It didn't come with a level for the elevation knob and one is not needed. Simply place the wide notch over the objective and the small one over the barrel and mount the scope so that it can still be turned in the mounts. Look through the scope at a plumbline and twist until the vertical crosshair covers the line and the bubble in the tool is level. Clamp down the top mount screws evenly and you are good to go.

This is the same tool that Buds Guns uses to mount scopes for customers.
 
Thanks for both sides of the fence. I think it's a little steep on the price. I could see getting comfortable with it easily but I would have to be using it often. I've been doing it with a starrett machinist level. Level the gun in a gun vise then level the at the turret. I see the scope can even shift when torquing it down. For myself I found this to be more comfortable to work with than the plumb line. I've always checked the crosshairs with a plumb line after leveling and it's always been spot on. Just always looking for an easier way. Only one that's affordable.


 
Skip-, I have a pistol and a rifle that have a level point on the body of the gun and the scope rail and they tell a different story when I use the machinist level. I ran with the assumption that it was the rail that was off. That's why I shied away from those. But with high end level they can make things look disastrous when they really aren't. But that sure is an affordable option.
 
Any method that references against the receiver or scope body is unconcerned with the only relationship that matters, which is that the reticle is oriented to the bore.




It depends? We assume the gun is good enough to have the bore dead centered in the action. Once the scope is properly leveled and zeroed the bore should be directly under the scope crosshair. If the scope crosshair and center of the bore is properly aligned then when your shoot at the hanging string the string should be cut at a lower section, this proves the scope and the bore is properly aligned and leveled……at least to me. 
 
It depends? We assume the gun is good enough to have the bore dead centered in the action.

Starting with assumptions and then verifying the result seems to me a perfectly reasonable approach. And if it were extremely costly or difficult to avoid those assumptions*, we would have good reason to start with assumptions. However it is neither costly nor difficult to avoid these assumptions. The only tool needed is a mirror.

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/best-way-to-level-a-scope-2/#post-1003404





* Partial list of the assumptions made when installing a scope based on some feature of the receiver or scope rail (any method that starts by "leveling the gun"):

1. The barrel is perfectly straight, and
2. the bore is centered within the barrel, and
3. the scope rail is precisely parallel to the receiver's mortise, and
4. the barrel-to-receiver interface has no lateral bias (a typical O-ringed barrel tenon secured with a grub screw through the top of the receiver will have some bias), and
5. the scope mounts are precisely centered above the rail, and
6. the reticle is clocked perfectly to the scope body/turrets, and
7. the barrel band (if present) isn't biasing the muzzle, and
8. the selected flat feature on the gun is perfectly perpendicular to all of the preceding items.
 
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