After reading related info on line it seems that heat cycling is needed for brass molds only. For Aluminum molds, only blackening with smoke is needed. May I know if this understanding is correct ? Aluminum mold does not need the formation of oxide layer to prevent mold sticking ?
Preparing a new aluminium slug mold : is heat cycling needed ?
- Thread starter airgunfans
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You will find different opinions for my fishing molds I blacken the face with acet. before I use them I preheat them a little , & you will see any moisture flash off the face of the mold . works for me . Usually takes a few pours to get it going good just don't let the mold get to hot . second edit sorry I do this to the old style cast alum. molds but the Doit molds I just preheat Darell
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Hopefully Rabbit will chime in. He's been doing this for decades, he does know his stuff! You could always private message him. JWRabbit123
There was a post similar to this one a week or two ago where they discussed this exact question. Do a search and you should find it.
Good luck.
There was a post similar to this one a week or two ago where they discussed this exact question. Do a search and you should find it.
Good luck.
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Get the mold hot before casting. Even toss the first couple casts back in the pot, blackened cavities and a hot mold works best. You'll find the happy temp.
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I clean a new mold with Dawn dish soap, blow dry, then preheat on a hot plate to 300 F and start casting. After the first pour I will lube the sprue plate, sprue bolts and the alignment pins while casting are still in the mold (helps keep lube out of the cavities). Typically tossing the first 10-20 pours back in the pot. Mainly just getting mold up to ideal temp. I have never had a problem dropping castings out of a mold. I use a 1lb dead blow mallet and tap the pivot bolt on the handles and they drop right out.
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I clean mold with Dawn, dry it overnight, lube the pins and sprue bolt and then smoke the mold with a zippo lighter. I just set the mold on top of my lead pot to heat up while the pot is heating up. before I pour my first cast, I dip the edge of my mold into the lead for just 5 to 10 seconds then start casting bullets. I will put bullets back into the lead pot until it starts producing good results...maybe 3-5 pours. have a damp rag close so when your bullets get frosty ( which means mold is to hot) just touch your mold to the damp rag to cool it down. I have never used a brass mold but have a lot of aluminum ones and a few steel. Good Luck.
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Both NOE and Arsenal recommend a few heat cycles on a new mold in either aluminium of brass to seat the pins and prevent any warping . I do three cycles to each new mold after a good wash with mild dish soap and hot water . I’ve found a mold at 350*F to 450*F cast better bullets with no wrinkles .
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