I have a gun with a .63" barrel (well .6325") that I want to upgrade the silencer on. The existing silencer has an adapter that "seems" to be pressed on and glued to the end of the barrel. It also has a small grub screw which when removed still leaves the adapter solidly in place. I am reasonably sure there are no threads on the barrel under the adapter but so far I have not tried seriously to remove it. I'm guessing it will take some acetone and maybe serious heat to get the thing off. The adapter is vented to the 1st chamber of the silencer. The real question is should I remove and thread the barrel or is it advisable to use slide on (clamping, gluing...) adapter? My other PCP's have shrouds which have endcaps with 1/2" threaded nipples for attaching suppressors. I am really wondering what are all the methods of attachment and the merits of each? My gun is pretty long so a reflex design is most tempting. .25 60fpe RAW w/ eccentric silencer w/ 2 chambers---loud, but oh so pretty.
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Preferred Silencer mounting methods
- Thread starter O2bmark
- Start date
What kind of gun do you have? I did the modification on both my .22 and .25 Kalibrgun Cricket . The end of the shroud has a plug which is pressed in and époxy glued.
I turned another cap , with a VERY thight fit , ended with a 1/2 UNF thread . I pressed it in the shroud , glued with green Loctite. Works very well.
The original cap is difficult to get out , because there is little grip surface to make the cap loose. The best method is to drill 2 holes in the cap to insert a nose pliers , then you need to heat the shroud around the cap with a torch or heat gun to soften the epoxy and, at the same time , twist the cap with the pliers and pull it out.
Good job
I turned another cap , with a VERY thight fit , ended with a 1/2 UNF thread . I pressed it in the shroud , glued with green Loctite. Works very well.
The original cap is difficult to get out , because there is little grip surface to make the cap loose. The best method is to drill 2 holes in the cap to insert a nose pliers , then you need to heat the shroud around the cap with a torch or heat gun to soften the epoxy and, at the same time , twist the cap with the pliers and pull it out.
Good job
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Obviously the piece on the right is attached to the barrel. The Threads visible that connect to the second section are not 1/2 x 20, a bit larger. I could make a copy of what's there but without holes and true 1/2 x 20 threads.
Now if I wanted to add a small "afterburner" moderator at the end of what's already there I could copy what you have done by making a new NUT (the piece furthest to the left) only having a 1/2 x 20 extension to the nut. I worry that I could keep everything lined up since the endcap indexes off the CF tube and then the nut off a combination of the endcap and the threads. I'm not a machinist but I do have access to lathe and milling machine. I already emailed Martin at RAW about making me a custom nut but he said he was too busy. I had figured since he was tooled up to make original nut that altering it would be relatively simple. I imagine that he is ridiculously busy. My Rifle is RAW HM1000x .25 cal.
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i took mine off my raw and have some cosmetic work left when i get around to it, i like and have the slip on with two grub screws, alignment is prefect, donny fl sells those, i have the new huggett and its light weight and really quiet
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by the way , Tim Hicks at SPAW i belive has a moderator that covers the barrel where the carbon fiber is missing,
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I have a standard power RAW in .22 with the regular, non-offset moderator, and it works well. Maybe they tend to work better. I remember it has two sections of felt wrapping inside, don't know if the offset moderator has enough clearance for the same type of insulation. To your question of how to attach another suppressor, I would use the same type of slip-on adapter. Threading the muzzle of a barrel is a little risky. Removing metal on the outside can slightly change the interior dimensions, which can affect accuracy. It would probably work out fine, but why take the chance? You could ask Martin his opinion on threading. I haven't had the adapter off my RAW barrel, but I'm sure heat will do the trick. I recently used heat to remove the silencer from my HW100, which was threaded and glued. It takes a fair amount of heat. Since the parts are all metal, I used a propane torch. Once it is hot enough, it turns off easily.
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That may be the easy way out. I'm really relieved that I can get an adapter from DonnyL if all else fails. I'd like a Neil Clague solution (He's such a great guy) as well. I emailed him awhile back and he made suggestions of how to improve what I have rather than try to sell me something--how rare. What he suggested was making the center tube vent holes much larger for both chambers and see if that helped. I could mill the holes into slots. What I don't fully understand from a technical point is why the vent hole are so close to the baffle on 1st chamber and the final exit on the second? I would think the earlier you began bleeding off air the better. If the 1st chamber had vents right at the barrel muzzle, maybe extending the full length of chamber wouldn't the chamber immediately pressurize, then after pellet passes and pressure drops the chamber air would then flow back through the vent holes moving towards or equalizing with the second chamber before final exit? A hair curler silencer is kind of like that isn't it---being the air sees the entire chamber all at once?
That's what I wanted to know. If I decide to enlarge the vent holes in my existing setup, I'm thinking I would pack the chambers with something, be it felt or open cell foam of some kind.
Joe, did you have any trouble getting off the back piece that holds the CF tube? I'm guessing it is also glued. Being anodized metal does heat discolor it?
The part of the story I haven't told you guys is that in the back of my mind I've wanted to incorporate the "Silent Thunder Ordinance" gas diode device. I've had some communication with him and he is using a FX with a shroud for his test bed. He doesn't know what would happen without the extra volume that the shroud provides but doesn't think it would work well, especially with a 60fpe gun. Putting one of his gadgets on the end of my silencer would probably be really quiet and really odd looking. Ultimately if he wants to reach a larger audience I'd think he'd need to design a reflex model so as to not need shroud air volume. I probably need to let go of using his silencer and go conventional.
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