Poi always shifting! Im frustrated!

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Depending on the materials your gun is made from, keep in mind that aluminum expands and contracts much more than steel and plastic msterial expands and contracts much more than aluminum!! If you have these materials together on your rifle, you could have all kinds of things going on with temp changes. The old Whiscombe rifles were fine made rifles but extremely close tolerances and the combination of different materials made them prone to poi changes often. Sometimes ultra precision can be an enemy especially when different materials are combined!!! Hope you have if figured out....
 
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A change in how you hold the rifle and a change in position of the face in regard of the scope will change POI.

Putting the silencer, sighting the scope and removing latter the silencer will Change the POI.

Changing ammo will change POI

Change fps could change POI.

Removing the scope from the weaver rail and putting it again, even in the same position, will chang POI.

First three shots after filling the rifle normally will hit in different POI. 

Loose rings in respect of the rail and/or of the scope, will change POI. 

Not finding the correct angle of inclination of the reticle will change POI at different distance. (In my case with bublme levels the reticle should be a little bit fallen to the right to be able to hit I. The same line ant 200 yards and st 20 yards. If I align centered the two bubbles I will hit center at 50 yards, left at 200 and right at 20). 

Remove the scope, hit gently the scope with a rubber hammer, then move counting the side turret all left, then all right, then return to the middle. Do the same with the hight turrent: All up, then all down and return to the middle. Just after you have done this, you might expect the scope to keep the zero. 

Try another scope. 

Recrown the barrel. 

Change the barrel. 

Buy a Uragan. 






 
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I know with me that my cheekweld and where my eye is in the eyebox changes the POI. It is still hard for me to find that repeatable comfortable spot. My POI moves about 2 pellets over most times and sometimes over about 7 or 8 if im not paying attention. Actually it is not that comfortable right now and Im still trying to find the perfect spot to place the scope comfortably. 😡
 
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I am sorry if I missed it but what kind of pcp do you have? Now I see it 😁. FX guns are difficult. I have had two and it took a long time to cure that problem. I put carbon on the barrel than found some reg creep that was not helping the problem than I tried different tensions on the lock nut on my barrel. Than all of a sudden the sweet combination was found and it shot great. Than I sold them and went back to a traditional barrel not the thin liner that fx has. In my opinion I will only shoot guns with CZ barrels. Very accurate, not pellet fussy at all. Good luck I am sure you will figure it out but it takes time.

Marco


 
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Even though your scope should be good, I would replace it with another and see if things change.

My Prod now wears a Hawke Vantage 2-7. It initially wore a bugbuster 3-9 which shifted zero as you describe. I sent it back to UTG last year at Christmas time and haven't heard a thing (despite inquiries). The Hawke Vantage is an inexpensive scope but it moves when I ask it to move and stays put when I have not moved it.

My Avenger has a West Hunter 4-16 side parallax 30mm scope that cost about $150 - another inexpensive scope. It also does not shift zero and works fine.

I shot a few groups with both guns daily last week to get them re-zero'd after re-tuning both. Both shot to the same POI the next day. I was moving zero sometimes but the new POI made sense relative to the clicks I had adjusted and was still there the next day.

I've had these scopes not move exactly like I thought they should after adjustment and I know that wind affects my POI. That is why I test them for several days in a row. I'm either done with them at this point or at least within about 1/8 inch at 30 meters (my normal testing distance).

I would expect more from a Helix. It should exactly like your adjustment and only when adjusted.


 
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One trick to ensure that your eye is centered up in the scope the same place each time is to use a lens cap with an approximately 1/4" hole poked in the center of it over the eyepiece. It forces you to get behind the scope in the same place each time, else you won't be able to find the crosshairs. Just find them and center them up in the 1/4" hole and you're good. And no, it doesn't even matter if the hole is in the exact dead center because unless you turn the focus dial (I have mine taped into place) you will always be referencing the same spot - it doesn't matter where it is. I poked my hole with a leather punch. You can drill it too, but that will usually leave the edges a bit fuzzy. 

This is a couple of pictures of my AR15 service rifle that I compete with. I shoot with the cover on it 100% of the time, from 200 yards all the way to 600 yards. I encourage anyone to try it out. 

20210822_205604.1629680558.jpg
20210822_205544.1629680568.jpg

 
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A change in how you hold the rifle and a change in position of the face in regard of the scope will change POI.

Putting the silencer, sighting the scope and removing latter the silencer will Change the POI.

Changing ammo will change POI

Change fps could change POI.

Removing the scope from the weaver rail and putting it again, even in the same position, will chang POI.

First three shots after filling the rifle normally will hit in different POI. 

Loose rings in respect of the rail and/or of the scope, will change POI. 

Not finding the correct angle of inclination of the reticle will change POI at different distance. (In my case with bublme levels the reticle should be a little bit fallen to the right to be able to hit I. The same line ant 200 yards and st 20 yards. If I align centered the two bubbles I will hit center at 50 yards, left at 200 and right at 20). 

Remove the scope, hit gently the scope with a rubber hammer, then move counting the side turret all left, then all right, then return to the middle. Do the same with the hight turrent: All up, then all down and return to the middle. Just after you have done this, you might expect the scope to keep the zero. 

Try another scope. 

Recrown the barrel. 

Change the barrel. 

Buy a Uragan. 





Click to expand...

Forgot to include the following:



A change in the but pad will change POI. 

A change on the position of the cheekpiece will change POI.

A change on how you rest the but pad on your shoulder will also change POI. 






 
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I can remove the moderator from my Avenger and put it back without it affecting POI. It is too big in diameter to stay on during a refill so it comes off and goes back repeatedly. I am not saying it doesn't happen on other guns, but it doesn't on mine.

Refilling also does not affect my POI with either of my guns. Again, it might on yours but it doesn't on mine. Only way to know is to test.

Certainly removing and replacing a scope can change POI.

I still maintain that I would check the scope first. If the mounts are tight then it's time to try another scope. A Helix certainly should not have trouble maintaining a zero, I sent in a $100 bugbuster for shifting POI. I also had a Simmons 44 Mag that did it but it got beat up by the recoil of my 8 lb 30/06 (Simmons honored their warranty unlike UTG so far).
 
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Triggernosis - Like your post "trick to ensure that your eye is centered".

Tried it with a wide piece of black electrical tape with a hole punched in it by a paper punch.

Here is what happened - Set up on my shooting bench, applied the tape and looked thru the scope. The hole was a little off center and I couldn't see anything. Once the hole was centered all was good. If it was off just a smiggen I had to move my head from its normal position on the cheek rest to see the target.

Tried it several times and the results were always the same.

From this experiment I have deduced, Mr. Watson, that my cheek weld - scope alignment is pretty well near perfect.

Thanks for your post.

PS - My groups with this gun do not wonder around from unexplainable reasons.
 
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@Triggernosis: neat trick, I will have to give it a try. I know certain scopes that have very forgiving eye pieces or generous eye box that a lot of people rave about have this issue. This is why I actually don't mine scopes with tight eye box, it forces me to have my eye alignment near perfect and very little parallax errors. Of course adjustable cheek pieces helps a ton but scopes and how they are designed make a huge difference. For ever feature on a scope there is a down side to it. 
 
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Hi, I'm a past 10 year bench shooter of the powder type gun. My firs thought is from what you are saying in your post is you are not repositioning your rest or bags to be in line with your next target?? Try to shoot your good paper then don't move your setup, just walk down and replace your target and see what this does?? Just a try..

Bill in Oregon
 
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Okay, i posted this this before. But i still cant seem to find the problem. 


im zeroed at 40 yds on target i shoot a group shot they all hit dead on touching groups dead center. 


as soon as i change my shot to a different target at the same 40yds my poi is shifting either high or low but the groups are still great. Just now off center. i just cant figure out whats causing the shifting of it. I thought it was me at first from all the inputs on my last post but now i dont think its me. 


anyone have any ideas? 


Click to expand...

What happens if you shoot the same targets but in reverse order? Is the first target still “on” and the following targets drift in the same way?
 
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