Picattiny rail for AA TX200

I’m 7 weeks in on my wait for a left handed TX200 and am getting everything together for the optics setup.
Already received the Vortex scope, Burris rings with inserts, and I now need a picatinny base.

I am eyeballing the BKL unit with 6 mounting bolts to hold eveything in place, but I’m curious if it will truly hold without slipping since it has no recoil stop.
I currently have a Gamo Bonehunter .177 that I’m running a UTG mount on and that sucker won’t stay put unless the recoil pin is in place, so I’m leary that the BKL will suffer from the same creeping issue.
Having said that, I like the idea of not using a recoil pin since the one on my Gamo has peened the hole in the receiver that the pin rides in and I would very much like to avoid that with a new $950.00 rifle.

Many thanks in advance!!
 
Thank you all for the input!

I forgot to mention that I’ve used the BKL 2 piece mounts on a Browning BL-22 and they slipped, which is part of what was giving me pause about the one piece mount.

MOhunter,
If you’ve had good success with the mount and your Gamo, then that eases my mind since I’m sure your Magnum recoils pretty harshly, like my Bonehunter.
I can't imagine BKL mounts slipping. Maybe yours need to be tightened up just a wee bit more? Anyway this is my setup and I haven't had any problems with it yet. But to be honest my Magnum is not something I shoot everyday either. But I'm still not expecting any slippage and have had none so far.

IMG20250913203812.jpg
 
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I can't imagine BKL mounts slipping. Maybe yours need to be tightened up just a wee bit more? Anyway this is my setup and I haven't had any problems with it yet. But to be honest my Magnum is not something I shoot everyday either. But I'm still not expecting any slippage and have had none so far.

View attachment 593585
Ah however I think I misread your original post. You're looking for a picatinny rail to go on top of your dovetail. Yeah I'd still go with BKL.
 
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I only use something like a BKL. No two dovetails are cut the same with the same widths. If you get something with a side clamp your scope axis cannot be perfectly centered on all dovetail rails. Since the BKL flexes in the center it will mount dead center of virtually all dovetails.

I have a UTG adapter that I started with and mine shifted a lot until I added through bolts to really clamp it down. I dont use it for scopes anymore after trying a few pairs of BKL dovetail rings.

I would suggest looking at the wider versions BKL makes if you are concerned about recoil. Also keep in mind the mass of your optic also plays a role in the mounts shifting. If you are using something light weight it will probably never be an issue anyway.

7Jfo5oSh.jpeg
 
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UTG : https://www.pyramydair.com/product/utg-universal-dovetail-to-picatinny-weaver-adapter?a=7311

I did use the stop pin, no deforming of hole, Gamo steel is actually soda cans lol

The trigger block is under the holes(not a blind hole), so move it down until it touches and back up some. Purple loctite 222 will keep it in place.

It slides on as one piece, so there is no canting of the pic adapter(no removable side plates).

View attachment 593992
That's a really nice gun. I wouldn't mind having one someday. What model is that?
 
I’m 7 weeks in on my wait for a left handed TX200 and am getting everything together for the optics setup.
Already received the Vortex scope, Burris rings with inserts, and I now need a picatinny base.

I am eyeballing the BKL unit with 6 mounting bolts to hold eveything in place, but I’m curious if it will truly hold without slipping since it has no recoil stop.
I currently have a Gamo Bonehunter .177 that I’m running a UTG mount on and that sucker won’t stay put unless the recoil pin is in place, so I’m leary that the BKL will suffer from the same creeping issue.
Having said that, I like the idea of not using a recoil pin since the one on my Gamo has peened the hole in the receiver that the pin rides in and I would very much like to avoid that with a new $950.00 rifle.

Many thanks in advance!!
It will not slip if you get the pre-clamp set right. With no screws in it should not slide onto the rail - it should require the jacking screws to force it open to slide onto the rail. Then when you remove the jacking screws it should be somewhat clamped on the rail by itself, and with the six screws tightened it won’t go anywhere.
 
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