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Pellet Trap

I am new to PCP (6 weeks) but loving it. 

I need to build a pellet trap for 30 yard shooting. I shoot 22 and 25 and I am sure I will get all the other calibers in time. 



- must be effectjve

- must be as quiet as possible!

- reasonably light would be nice

- frontal view 24”x24”





Any idea would be welcome I tried building a box with insulation fibre compressed into it but that was not very effective



chris




 
Most out door back stops are built using railroad ties and dirt. That might seem like over kill but essentially you are shooting very equivalent to 22 rim fire. I'm assuming you don't have a hill or a natural back stop. 24 by 24 isn't big enough in my opinion. It's big enough for a target but you may have to stop misses or ricochets. Probably have to tell us a little more about the lay of the land. You said pellet trap. Most don't use a pellet "trap" out side. I shoot newbold swingers at about 40 yards but I have a natural back stop. If I didn't I'd consider digging a pit to shoot down into which would fill with water so more likely I'd get some railroad ties and use rebar and nail them down. Maybe some dirt behind the railroad ties. Essentially building a retaining wall. 



If you are talking just about a trap you don't (or shouldn't) need 24 by 24 . 12 by 12 should be good and I'd make a box and fill it with modeling clay or moretight which is a material similar to modeling play that is used as a weather seal. AOA sells a pellet trap like I am taking about (not as large) 

You also could make a metal back stop that deflects the pellets down into sand but it's probably relatively expensive and noisy comparatively so.

You probably need to clarify back stop or just a pellet trap.
 
Rubber mulch trap. Cardboard box, bucket, or wood box filled with rubber mulch (available at Home Depot or Lowes)

Effective - Yes, stops darn near anything you can shoot at it.

Quiet - Probably one of the quietest traps you can make.

Light weight - In a word, no. They are manageable but the higher the power of what you are shooting the more mulch you need to use.

I have two rubber mulch traps. One indoors that I use for velocity testing (point blank shooting) and one I keep on my outside range. Both of these traps have thousands, yes thousands of pellets shot into them. Not a single pass thru. The mulch does an excellent job of dissipating the energy of the pellet. The mulch also fills in on itself so that you do not bore thru it when shooting multiple pellets into the same spot.


 
I have a 12"x12" electrical box with duct seal in it and its quite not to expensive and heavy. I have a 24"24 steal plate on a 30 degree angle with pellets deflected downward into a dirt trap. It is good and effective. what I use the most is a box that about 12"x30" filled with old denim pants that sits on a harbor freight dolly. its my favorite. And is practically free. 







hope that helps
 
Another rubber mulch trap user here. I use 5 gallon plastic buckets w/snap lock lids and playground rubber mulch (chunks). Cost effective and very quiet!

1 ea. Plastic Bucket - $7.00

1 ea. Plastic Snap Lock Lid - $1.00

1 ea. bag Playground Rubber Mulch (chunks) - $7.00

Total per trap - $ 15.00

Buckets have built in carry handles which make them highly portable. Easy to stack them in any configuration you need. Easy to set traps at multiple distances. What more can one ask for.
 
Thanks @douger! 

A rubber mulch shot box would work well for you. You don't have to use plywood like I did but, it does make for a sturdy box. Rubber mulch isn't lightweight and, obviously, the more you shoot it, the more lead it will have in it. You can put a handle or two on it to make it easier to move around. I repair my clip board with duck tape as it gets shot up. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un2h9U8JJas&t=129s

You might also consider using some type of impact clay

I would stay away from shooting directly at a metal plate of any kind. If you do use a metal plate, use it as a final backstop. 

Happy Shooting!

Tom
 
Make sure you make it heavy duty enough. My first attempt didn't last very long with these PCP's.

1/16" steel plate backed with 1/2" plywood and it was covered with 1/2" layer of duct seal.
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Now these have 1/4" steel plates in them. The square one. The steel plate is at a 45 degree angle.

The thinner target has 1/2" plywood, 1/4" steel plate. 1/4" rubber sheet, and 1/2" of duct seal.

1534565061_2527836145b779ac56fb974.66353750_1526769691_19295530525b00a81b501983.10385087_IMG_...jpeg


Here the thread about the pellets penetrating the target 

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/what-are-people-using-as-a-target-my-impact-needs-a-better-option/
 
Thanks @douger! 

A rubber mulch shot box would work well for you. You don't have to use plywood like I did but, it does make for a sturdy box. Rubber mulch isn't lightweight and, obviously, the more you shoot it, the more lead it will have in it. You can put a handle or two on it to make it easier to move around. I repair my clip board with duck tape as it gets shot up. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un2h9U8JJas&t=129s

You might also consider using some type of impact clay

I would stay away from shooting directly at a metal plate of any kind. If you do use a metal plate, use it as a final backstop. 

Happy Shooting!

Tom

I will put two wheels on it with a handle and that way I don't have to carry a 50 pound box around. I do not want any metal in it because it is (1) heavy and (2) noisy. Silence is golden.
 
Im all for the rubber mulch setup. Cheap and works well. I use a 5 gal bucket with a lid and a bag of rubber mulch. I actually empty the mulch into the bucket then stuff the bag ontop before putting the lid on the bucket. Also you can stuff some cardboard over that as well. Point being is that it keeps the mulch from coming out if you have a giant hole in you bucket lid. BTY, just replace the lid now and then if you want. I think it cost me like $8 for one trap build.