PCP compressor water seperators

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igolfat8 said:
Both of these (the ones in your links) are a waste of money. Not sure how much plainer I can state it. I’ve got both and would never buy a molecular sieve again, period!
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WHATTT?? So much contradictions in the airgun community on what to an what not to do an what to what not to use, I see people say no problems with molecular sieves removing water an they work great an I also heard now yours the 2nd person I read saying they are not effective. Are they really that useless then how come people are running them for years an with no water in tanks an guns are all good an stuff, I dont know which one is it, From what I seen I guess Il go with the one you suggested. I cant wait to get my bottle full Il also buy another acecare bottle 2 liter for 190 with tax the slim one already got a valve cant wait to get this compressor an hit the range been doing all this research everyone has something different to say, I see all these people just dive in the hobby after getting avenger and I dont want to break anything by doing something wrong, Il be going for the seco lube 500 for oil with my yong im about to buy.
 
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MarksmanPete said:
Im about to buy a yong but im in this little delema, So at first I figured Id settle for molecular sieve its good price 70 dollars on amazon for the tuxing with molecular sieve https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q221JFX/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=A39CP3T8JONR46&psc=1, But I seen some people talking about the copper colored one an how effective it is, an a AVS also had good things to say about it an was very pleased with it, But it runs 135 extra dollars double what the molecular sieve setup will cost is it worth it at the moment, I dont know I might want a setup like yours I just need the copper an the gold one as I already got the blue one, What do you think should I opt for just the gold one like yours or the branded tuxing gold one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q221JFX/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=A39CP3T8JONR46&psc=1., .
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I started with the black, gold and blue filters, kept getting a soaked cotton insert in the black YH filter. Figured too much moisture in my humid Florida garage so had to upgrade with the copper-colored coalescing filter, black YH filter has been dry since. Living in Arizona or operating the YH in an air-conditioned room, copper-colored coalescing filter might not be needed. Had the occasion to remove both hoses from copper-colored filter recently, found entering fitting rusty/corroded, exit connection looked brand new, so moisture was going in, not coming out, except thru bottom vent. MY YH has the Cyclonic Water Separator and moisture vents when release screw opens, but moisture still heads to copper-colored filter. Try with molecular sieve, either one is fine (I prefer burst disc equipped) but if moisture becomes evident, upgrade! WM
 
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WorriedMan said:
I started with the black, gold and blue filters, kept getting a soaked cotton insert in the black YH filter. Figured too much moisture in my humid Florida garage so had to upgrade with the copper-colored coalescing filter, black YH filter has been dry since. Living in Arizona or operating the YH in an air-conditioned room, copper-colored coalescing filter might not be needed. Had the occasion to remove both hoses from copper-colored filter recently, found entering fitting rusty/corroded, exit connection looked brand new, so moisture was going in, not coming out, except thru bottom vent. MY YH has the Cyclonic Water Separator and moisture vents when release screw opens, but moisture still heads to copper-colored filter. Try with molecular sieve, either one is fine (I prefer burst disc equipped) but if moisture becomes evident, upgrade! WM
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Im watching a youtube video right now an this guy also has what you got kinda copper followed by gold
, I might just do that But igolfat8 says that molecular sieve are very uneffective.
 
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I got a bullpup avenger 22 I got 880 nsa slugs to test out an tune, An the gun uses AIR on those tunes, 30 slugs is shot count so If im tuning it I will need to just tether it to the bottle if im running slugs it will use air like that, So I see acecare has a slim bottle 183 before tax but im in washington 10% tax for me so its 200 il take it out hunting or long range plinking/target practise.
 
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Marksman,
Sounds like we're all over the place, but not really, Biohazardman, a Yong Heng expert, only used a molecular sieve and two YH black filters in his Oregon humidity-controlled basement and didn't experience any moisture problems. As a newbie I tried to replicate but didn't have same success in a Florida garage, so upgrade was in order. Reminds me of a member from Alaska who bragged he never used ice in his cooling water, depends on location, in Florida I need lots of ice! Biohazardman once commented on a thread where members discussed drying soaked water absorbing beads, from molecular sieves, that they should upgrade their systems, rather than dry beads! WM
 
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WorriedMan said:
Marksman,
Sounds like we're all over the place, but not really, Biohazardman, a Yong Heng expert, only used a molecular sieve and two YH black filters in his Oregon humidity-controlled basement and didn't experience any moisture problems. As a newbie I tried to replicate but didn't have same success in a Florida garage, so upgrade was in order. Reminds me of a member from Alaska who bragged he never used ice in his cooling water, depends on location, in Florida I need lots of ice! Biohazardman once commented on a thread where members discussed drying soaked water absorbing beads, from molecular sieves, that they should upgrade their systems, rather than dry beads! WM
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I heard from AVS that it has to be in a tight container that is reguarding the molecular sieve is that true yous it need to have o rings around it does not make sense.
 
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WorriedMan said:
Yeah, the plastic inserts are needed to separate filter media from aluminum to prevent corrosion. Looking at the M50 Owner's Manual cover you'll see four rubber "O" rings, two thin ones for plastic media insert and two thicker ones for ends of aluminum tube. WM
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Makes sense I was thinking of just using molecular sieve without any plastic filter but thats a bad idea.
 
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WorriedMan said:
Yeah, the plastic inserts are needed to separate filter media from aluminum to prevent corrosion. Looking at the M50 Owner's Manual cover you'll see four rubber "O" rings, two thin ones for plastic media insert and two thicker ones for ends of aluminum tube. WM
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I will go with the copper one right now and later on I will get the gold sieve like you.
 
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Most of the compressors are shipped/sold with "cotton pill" type filters. I would think you have to check those "pills" and see if they are wet after your normal fill. Does a 15-minute run make 3x more water as a 5 min run? One manufacture said you can dry the "pills" with a hair drier. I want to know how much they reduce the compressor efficiency/output? Until you know how much water your compressor is making, buying expensive driers is just more "toys". Environment should make a huge difference, FL vs AZ.
 
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WNYBill said:
Most of the compressors are shipped/sold with "cotton pill" type filters. I would think you have to check those "pills" and see if they are wet after your normal fill. Does a 15-minute run make 3x more water as a 5 min run? One manufacture said you can dry the "pills" with a hair drier. I want to know how much they reduce the compressor efficiency/output? Until you know how much water your compressor is making, buying expensive driers is just more "toys". Environment should make a huge difference, FL vs AZ.
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Im in western washington an it rains a good bit of the year here, That said I know there is good bit of moisture running thru the air, even if you are in arizona there is still that little bit that will accumulate and you will have water, I wouldnt risk running the yong heng without a good moisture trap system, When I hand pumped I could see bleeding it how much mist would fly so I obviously know already there is moisture.
 
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WNYBill said:
Most of the compressors are shipped/sold with "cotton pill" type filters. I would think you have to check those "pills" and see if they are wet after your normal fill. Does a 15-minute run make 3x more water as a 5 min run? One manufacture said you can dry the "pills" with a hair drier. I want to know how much they reduce the compressor efficiency/output? Until you know how much water your compressor is making, buying expensive driers is just more "toys". Environment should make a huge difference, FL vs AZ.
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Those little pills I dont even know they are hardly usefull they just filter out the first stage of dust an maybe a tiny bit of water, You want a sieve or the copper moisture oil catcher if you really want to get rid of the moisture issue.
 
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I've had my YH about 2 years now. I filled my guns with it at first but most of that time it has been filling my 45 minute SCBA tank. Runs normally take about 15 minutes. I use the small filter the YH came with - first - then a small additional filter about 2 to 3 times the YH filter in size filled with color changing beads. I change them when they change from orange to dark which is about 4-5 tank fills. I change the little filter element in the YH stock filter every run. It doesn't just trap moisture it also traps oil from the YH. But I think my beads would see more moisture if I didn't have the filter elements vertical above the YH and vent the compressor every 5 minutes. Moisture obviously exits when I vent. A one way valve in the second filter prevents venting the compressor from venting the tank. I bought one of those huge gold colored extra filters but have never used it. I've seen no signs water is getting past my smaller filters.

I think the little filter the YH comes with might be OK if you are only filling guns and check or change it often. But I feel better with something added filling my tank. And that filter does collect a little moisture.
 
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JimD said:
I've had my YH about 2 years now. I filled my guns with it at first but most of that time it has been filling my 45 minute SCBA tank. Runs normally take about 15 minutes. I use the small filter the YH came with - first - then a small additional filter about 2 to 3 times the YH filter in size filled with color changing beads. I change them when they change from orange to dark which is about 4-5 tank fills. I change the little filter element in the YH stock filter every run. It doesn't just trap moisture it also traps oil from the YH. But I think my beads would see more moisture if I didn't have the filter elements vertical above the YH and vent the compressor every 5 minutes. Moisture obviously exits when I vent. A one way valve in the second filter prevents venting the compressor from venting the tank. I bought one of those huge gold colored extra filters but have never used it. I've seen no signs water is getting past my smaller filters.

I think the little filter the YH comes with might be OK if you are only filling guns and check or change it often. But I feel better with something added filling my tank. And that filter does collect a little moisture.
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Where im at im sure I will need a additional filter of some kind my eyes are set on the copper colored one that says air inlet , air outlet, From what everything I seen online youtube an forums so far I think It will be the best buy and if I still have any moisture I will go for a big gold one an run it with 13x sieve I see on amazon 8x12 13x molecular sieve for around 25 dollars for 5 pounds so that will last a lifetime, At first I was set on just the sieve but some other users suggested the copper one https://www.ebay.com/itm/192985783901, Im waiting for it to get in stock on amazon it was in stock like a week ago I checked but its currently unavailable Im trying to save a buck an im no rush amazon has the an the best price on that unit I think its 122, on ebay its 125 so very close, Il settle with this one, I already have a blue moisture oil filter an I think I will fill that one with sieve I have left over from my hillpump, But right now im doing a little research trying to find out if its safe I heard folks talking about the sieve curroding the aluminum and I keep the molecular sieve touching the aluminum walls on mine , I dont know I heard some other guy on here saying it has no ph so it shouldnt cerode anything unless the sieves soaked up water an than water corrodes aluminum then maybe but you never let it get that wet anyway so I dont see the issue is the sieve is not corrosive, anyway that's research for me to do I need to make sure.
 
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Just go to your local welding supply store and get a Nitrogen bottle and regulator to feed your compressor, NO Water, No Oxidizers and pretty cheap in the long run. I to live in Western Wa. humidity runs in excess of 70% most of the time outside and even with airconditioning 30%.
Pete Central welding has a store in redmond. by old Genie ind.
 
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MarksmanPete said:
WHATTT?? So much contradictions in the airgun community on what to an what not to do an what to what not to use, I see people say no problems with molecular sieves removing water an they work great an I also heard now yours the 2nd person I read saying they are not effective. Are they really that useless then how come people are running them for years an with no water in tanks an guns are all good an stuff, I dont know which one is it, From what I seen I guess Il go with the one you suggested. I cant wait to get my bottle full Il also buy another acecare bottle 2 liter for 190 with tax the slim one already got a valve cant wait to get this compressor an hit the range been doing all this research everyone has something different to say, I see all these people just dive in the hobby after getting avenger and I dont want to break anything by doing something wrong, Il be going for the seco lube 500 for oil with my yong im about to buy.
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The reason that there are so many contradictions on this topic is because many (maybe even most) airgunners do NOT understand the physics of what is happening with "water molecules" when we compress our air. Welcome to the internet - a place where anyone can post an opinion and pass it off as fact (at least that is my opinion . . . ;)).

Honestly, it is what scares me about "AI" bots "learning" from the internet, as so much of it is just flat out wrong - including lots of posts on this topic in this forum . . . . many people extrapolate what they "know" about water and humidity at atmospheric pressure and think things work the same at high pressures . . .

Read this thread to learn more - do be aware that there is plenty of misinformation in it as well, but I tried to speak to it as best I could . . . . https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/use-a-filter.1287000/

And then post other questions as needed.
 
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Alan,

I just read your linked thread and I agree with your input as far as it goes. Very high pressure air cannot hold the moisture that is normally in ambient air unless the temperature is high. Coming out of our compressors the temperature is high but it doesn't stay that way. So when the air cools the moisture will come out. Could be in our tank, could be in our gun. Unless we remove it first. You made these points well with data. (you did not say these words, this is my summary) The only thing I think should be added is the cooling begins to happen as soon as the air leaves our guns. The lines and the filters are not at the temperature of the second stage piston and condensation will start as soon as the air temperature drops below the dew point (at it's pressure). This is why I think it's important to arrange the filters and lines to drain back towards the YH where I can vent it. Filtering it out is OK but blowing it out the vent also is effective and doesn't cost anything.

Without understanding why in all cases I think most of us understand the high pressure air has moisture we need to remove. I think the key question that can be difficult to get a handle on is how much water and what will remove it. That is why I use and recommend color changing dessicant. When it is still mostly dry after a compressor run I feel pretty confident that I did not just put water into my SCBA tank. I don't do it often but I have to open the air chamber of my favorite air guns to change the regulator pressure (P35s). When I opened my 25 caliber, it was dry inside with no signs of moisture. This is another way to know if what I am doing is effective. It would be possible to calculate how much water is coming out but I don't know of any ratings for filters to tell us how much water they can be trusted to remove. So I do something I think is reasonable then I check to be sure it is working.

Jim
 
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Jim,

You got it right. And yes, the air charge is cooling the whole time after the air leaves the compressor. In truth, I think it is one of the reasons that a good sized coalescing filter can work so well with these compressors (they would work even better if they were in ice water too), as they help to remove heat and drive condensation. But it never fully cools until long after it is in the tank or gun . . . and that is why a desiccant dryer can be such a good addition to the air path.

I agree that using a color changing desiccant is a great idea, as it can show where things stand without guessing. And you are also right that whatever we do, we should be doing checks on our guns and systems - one of the things that I did on my desiccant dryer that feeds my Shoebox was to predict the amount of water that it should have adsorbed over the amount of air it had dried, and verified it by weight before and after drying (it was right on the mark), and I also inspected my tanks too.

Happy shooting!
 
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