Yes and no - some scopes optics spread out the numbers or focal points better so they don’t need as big a wheel thus this thread. Some scope are so bad at parallax adjustment that even a 6” wheel doesn’t help much
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Parallax Wheels - pictures of "the spread"
- Thread starter cavedweller
- Start date
I’m pretty new to this game and appreciate all the info I get from you experienced shooters. I shoot only HFT at the Ohio clubs. Thank you all for the info.
Ken
Ken
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A bigger diameter helps, but each scope is different. I print my own wheels and they are all the same shape, but the distance marks are different, even on the same model of scopes, or even changing the magnification on a scope. I guess it's time to stop being lazy and post some pictures of my wheels. In the photos, I say that some of the scopes are "mushy". What I mean by that is that you might have an object at 52 yards. It will come into focus on the scope at the 45 yard setting and go out of focus past the 55 yard setting. So the focus area on the scope wheel is large, which makes it hard to range find accurately. If I recall correctly, this is called having to much depth of field. "Snappy" scopes that have a narrow focus range have a shallow depth of field and are better for rangefinding. So the scopes pictured below that are setup for 16x have nice big spreads, but they don't actually range find very well at longer distances because of the large depth of field. They would be great for hunting, assuming you have a range finder. And the Riton scope below is the Conquer, not Conqueror.
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Here's a side photo of the wheel for the T50's and the Riton in my post. Effective diameter is about 10 inches (edited because I originally entered the radius instead of the diameter).
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When I was competing archery Field I used to use both OT2 and AA for linear (vertical) tapes but non of of them were really accurate for "around a wheel" (Xbow scopes) I needed always to tweak manually.
For airgun scopes elevation turret tapes I tried the old Hawke Chairgun, calculated the numbers from Strelok and input into chairgun and not really perfect. I can live with a mm ruler tape and make a dope card instead but was kind of lazy to do manually
.I never 3d printed the entire parallax wheel for this reason, but honestly I could just stick a white strip of tape and mark it with a sharpie.
This your SkopeKnob tickling my interest I will need to get a closer look on it.
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To be clear, it's not my software, I'm just a user. I haven't used OT2 in years, but if I recall correctly, ScopeKnob is similar in function. There is also a thread where people make a wheel tape by taking a photo on their phone and edit the image but I haven't messed with that.When I was competing archery Field I used to use both OT2 and AA for linear (vertical) tapes but non of of them were really accurate for "around a wheel" (Xbow scopes) I needed always to tweak manually.
For airgun scopes elevation turret tapes I tried the old Hawke Chairgun, calculated the numbers from Strelok and input into chairgun and not really perfect. I can live with a mm ruler tape and make a dope card instead but was kind of lazy to do manually
I never 3d printed the entire parallax wheel for this reason, but honestly I could just stick a white strip of tape and mark it with a sharpie.
This your SkopeKnob tickling my interest I will need to get a closer look on it.
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I'm a "piece it together like a ransom letter" kind of guy. Just print it at desired font and size and then razor out all the numbers and apply them with tape.
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What’s best used for a water proof setup? I just got a printed wheel and concerned about adhesion to this material. Will be my first time shooting any field target competition (HFT)
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I've used 3M double sided tapes (sliced from a printed sheet) and lay over a slice of Scotch tape to "watertight". If not directly exposed to rain these can live long enough you get bored of it...
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Yep, once I'm happy with a scope wheel tape, I "laminate" it with packing tape. I didn't do that on an elevation knob at a shoot last year and got rained on. The ink ran, so now I tape up the scope wheel and elevation knobs before any big shoot.
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I’ve been using holdovers as opposed to yardage markings for the last half of ‘22 and all of the ‘23 season. I like the fact I don’t need a DOPE card and I believe it’s easier to range far (+40 yards) targets. It has taken some getting used to but I think I’m getting close. Only three non forced target misses on the targets for the 120 shot GP RoT match.
I did put 35, 40, 45 and 50 yard marks on the wheel so I could baseline and comparatively range on the practice range.
Near marks
Far marks
I did put 35, 40, 45 and 50 yard marks on the wheel so I could baseline and comparatively range on the practice range.
Near marks
Far marks
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What I’ve used and is suggested by Joe @ JDS Custom Design scope wheels is a base tape of Gorilla white with a layer of Gorilla clear over your marked wheel. I have found this brand of tape very durable most certainly waterproof.
If you look closely at my wheel, you’ll notice a couple of additional layers. This is where I have made corrections and overlayed with additional tape. I leave a tab at the end of my last layer so I can remove it if need be without damaging or removing the original tape. (Think tear strips on racing helmet face shields.)
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I guess I‘m a little annual and some of my tape colors have to match my gun 
these 3 wheels are all from JD and they are nautilus wheels and all on Athlon scopes. The silver wheel is from scope-werks and is a nautilus, the pistol wheel I printed myself on a Sightron . I hand do my tapes then transfer the dimensions on a program for scope-werks and it prints out real nice. The cool thing about the program, you can save all the tape dimensions and alter them when things change.
these 3 wheels are all from JD and they are nautilus wheels and all on Athlon scopes. The silver wheel is from scope-werks and is a nautilus, the pistol wheel I printed myself on a Sightron . I hand do my tapes then transfer the dimensions on a program for scope-werks and it prints out real nice. The cool thing about the program, you can save all the tape dimensions and alter them when things change.Upvote 0
This is my new Hawke Airmax 8-32x50 with a Scopewerks sidewheel. I did the ranging in our shop at work so I still have yet to really test it out. Preliminary sighting seems promising. It has about 170 degrees of rotation from 11 yards to 55 yards. The bummer is that it only focuses clearly to 11 yards at 16x with my ocular setting. 10 is blurry. I asked Hawke about this and they were kinda wishy washy with a reply as to whether there was an issue with the scope. Plus the parallax knob marks don't quite line up for 10 yards. I'm going to try it out first before discussing it further with Hawke Optics.
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There's an easy fix for this. Use a longer barrel. Then if you get a 10 yard target, just scooch back until it becomes an 11 yard target. That's why you see so many Redwolfs with long moderators, for people that can't hit a 10 yard target.
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Good thing I'm not paying for any of these sage words of wisdom or I'd be wanting my money back! LOL!
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Plus our eyes change so redoing a wheel when you redo your glasses is advisable if you shoot with glasses
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I redo my wheel every time I don't clean a course. It's gotta be the wheel's fault, right? (You should see my stack of old wheel tapes, bunch of dang losers. Like used scratch-offs.)
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