Panthera slow leak

Anyone else been having the slow leak issue? I resealed the gauge block with new orings, and also replaced the x rings in the gauge port of both gauges.
Still loses about 20 to 30 bar per night. So it’s not my first guess, maybe it’s the new valve system? Maybe FX will chime in here since I’m not the only one having this issue…
 
I removed and reinstalled the bottle gauge block on mine without using a torque driver as well as replacing the gauge itself with one that I didnt tighten down as hard as factory in order to keep the face upright. Had me a little worried it might leak.

Removed my bottle a buncha times already.

Checked after a week and zero loss.

Maybe its something else?

20-30 bar sounds like a lot, id spray it with soapy water.
 
Anyone else been having the slow leak issue? I resealed the gauge block with new orings, and also replaced the x rings in the gauge port of both gauges.
Still loses about 20 to 30 bar per night. So it’s not my first guess, maybe it’s the new valve system? Maybe FX will chime in here since I’m not the only one having this issue…
Mine is leaking 18-20bar every 24hrs. I'll have to do the surgical dunk in water sometime soon to find where it's leaking from, but I'd venture a guess and say this is a common issue that FX needs to address as I've heard about another new Panthera having a slow leak from someone else.
 
Mine is leaking 18-20bar every 24hrs. I'll have to do the surgical dunk in water sometime soon to find where it's leaking from, but I'd venture a guess and say this is a common issue that FX needs to address as I've heard about another new Panthera having a slow leak from someone else.
Concur, it seems to be a class problem that needs to be addressed by FX. For the person above that said, "spray it with soapy water", leaks as slow as this don't show up that way. 20 to 30 bar overnight is very slow seepage. I checked the gauges and gauge block first since in my experience that has been the issue with numerous guns in the past. No luck this time.

FX??? Ball is in your court here...
 
Concur, it seems to be a class problem that needs to be addressed by FX. For the person above that said, "spray it with soapy water", leaks as slow as this don't show up that way. 20 to 30 bar overnight is very slow seepage. I checked the gauges and gauge block first since in my experience that has been the issue with numerous guns in the past. No luck this time.

FX??? Ball is in your court here...
Both gauges drop in pressure over nite? If so, has to be poppet valve or plenum.
 
FWIW I’d try a soap solution around the common areas like Vinny suggested...20 bar overnight from a conventional air tube isn’t a fast leak but from a generously-sized 300cc tank it’s fast enough. Anything other than a leak from a gauge’s Bourdon tube (internal leak, not from the threads) should blow bubbles. And of course this method won’t find leaks from inaccessible areas like the poppet/valve seat. Beyond that, off comes the barrel and into the bathtub...
 
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FWIW I’d try a soap solution around the common areas like Vinny suggested...20 bar overnight from a conventional air tube isn’t a fast leak but from a generously-sized 300cc tank it’s fast enough. Anything other than a leak from a gauge’s Bourdon tube (internal leak, not from the threads) should blow bubbles. And of course this method won’t find leaks from inaccessible areas like the poppet/valve seat. Beyond that, off comes the barrel and into the bathtub.
Yeah, maybe.... I've done the soapy spray look for bubble twice, but nothing. Then again, I've done that on other guns and didn't find that one bubble every 5 minutes leak until it was submerged. The gun is under WARRANTY, but I have no confidence that it'll get fixed. And I don't want to send it away or a month since I'm competing with it regularly on March 25 XFT, NRL22 26 March in Phoenix and the Oregon event the end of April. Plus, RMAC mid-June (PRS). Maybe after the Summer is over and EBR is done I'll send it in if I don't find the leak.
 
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😒 I just got my Panthera back from repair after finding a bent poppet. Lol, the repair ticket said they had it sit a few days to ensure no leaks. While the poppet was replaced, I found it my regulator gauge was set at 150bar, the bottle gauge was reading zero. My first thought was the oring (C30) on the Panthera schematic. I had previously installed the tungsten hammer and it was the only seal to worry about during the install. ( I had found the bent poppet during the hammer install, apparently bent poppets are becoming an issue too! ) I just re-lubed and reinstalled the C30 oring and so for so good.
Besides a leak, I wonder if your regulator has an issue, isn't the usual practice after dismounting a tank, you need to make a small turn on regulator grub screw to de-gas the plenum side? Is it suppose to reverse flow by itself?
 
If you can live with it in the meantime, that sounds like a fine plan. If the leak is anywhere other than the two places mentioned in my previous message, it will most likely grow over time and make it easier to pinpoint.
Thanks... Yes, both @mtnGhost and I think there might be an issue with the new valve system... It takes a while for a manufacturer to admit an assembly or design flaw, but FX has been good about addressing these issues in the past.
 
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😒 I just got my Panthera back from repair after finding a bent poppet. Lol, the repair ticket said they had it sit a few days to ensure no leaks. While the poppet was replaced, I found it my regulator gauge was set at 150bar, the bottle gauge was reading zero. My first thought was the oring (C30) on the Panthera schematic. I had previously installed the tungsten hammer and it was the only seal to worry about during the install. I had found the bent poppet during the hammer install, apparently bent poppets are becoming an issue too! I just re-lubed and reinstalled the C30 oring and so for so good.
Besides a leak, I wonder if your regulator has an issue, isn't the usual practice after dismounting a tank, you need to make a small turn on regulator grub screw to de-gas the plenum side? Is it suppose to reverse flow by itself?
My reg has been flawless. Sits at 135 bar for weeks. Shoots Altaros 49.5 BT with 15 shot ES of under 5 fps...

I thought we weren't supposed to disassemble the gun? I'm shooting my gun at about 86 fpe in .25 caliber, wouldn't expect I stressed the gun too much?
 
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😒 I just got my Panthera back from repair after finding a bent poppet. Lol, the repair ticket said they had it sit a few days to ensure no leaks. While the poppet was replaced, I found it my regulator gauge was set at 150bar, the bottle gauge was reading zero. My first thought was the oring (C30) on the Panthera schematic. I had previously installed the tungsten hammer and it was the only seal to worry about during the install. ( I had found the bent poppet during the hammer install, apparently bent poppets are becoming an issue too! ) I just re-lubed and reinstalled the C30 oring and so for so good.
Besides a leak, I wonder if your regulator has an issue, isn't the usual practice after dismounting a tank, you need to make a small turn on regulator grub screw to de-gas the plenum side? Is it suppose to reverse flow by itself?
What made you suspect the C30 oring at the back of the gun?
 
My reg has been flawless. Sits at 135 bar for weeks. Shoots Altaros 49.5 BT with 15 shot ES of under 5 fps...

I thought we weren't supposed to disassemble the gun? I'm shooting my gun at about 86 fpe in .25 caliber, wouldn't expect I stressed the gun too much?
I was somewhere over 800 round count before attempting the tungsten hammer install and finding the bent valve. Made a quite a few regulator adjustments during that period. I've found that it takes more shots to settle down than any of my Impacts, 3 to 4 shots. I've been shooting 40 grains exclusively thru 22 cal 700mm, chasing that 1040 fps. No success so far reaching the 1000+fps mark, with the fear or bending another valve. I've settled with sub MOA at 960fps at my 175 yard range limit.
 
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Mike!
In the piping industry a product called Visu-Glo (Made by LA-CO) is used to find leaks in gas/air and even oxygen lines (no oil). It is safe to use and won't rust if wiped off. It is a neon green color and will show leaks for a long while after applying. It grows a 'beard' that you can readily see.
It is sold in most plumbing warehouses, Ferguson for example, not far from your place, on Market Street.
You might wanna try that?
1678403404018.png

FEATURES/BENEFITS​

  • Temperature range: 15°F to 200°F (-9°C to 93°C)
  • Built-in dauber and high viscosity allow for easy application
  • Highly visible fluorescent color shows brightly, even in dimly lit places
  • Non-corrosive, non-toxic, safe for oxygen
  • Made in U.S.A.
Mike
 
Still have that slow leak. Now it’s about 50 to 60 bar overnight. Definitely not the gauges or gauge block. I wanted to wait till after RMAC to send it for warranty but at this rate I’ll have to send soon. If FX would actually speak up about the reasons or causes of these leaks I’d try to fix it myself. I’m fairly sure it’s a slightly bent valve stem which seems to be a common issue.
 
I’m fairly sure it’s a slightly bent valve stem which seems to be a common issue.
If so, a balloon on the muzzle should inflate.

Just be mindful of possible leakage paths that could hide it (allow air to slowly escape rather than fill the balloon). For example, obviously the bolt must be closed and the associated bolt/breech O-ring sufficiently healthy to seal at near-zero pressure differential.

And the muzzle end of the barrel...the balloon must seal to the actual end of the bore. I’m not familiar with the Panthera barrel but if it is a typical FX liner + barrel, go ahead and remove the long threaded adapter and place the balloon directly over the end of the liner. Reason being, some of the threaded adapters do not have an internal O-ring.
 
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Looks like I managed to stop my slow leak trough the barrel . I still after two and half week haven’t been able to reach FX and they haven’t responded to my emails .

I decided to try something. The bent valvepin i straightened out with some tools I had. That didn’t fix the leak. Then I discovered the valve it self was not flat on the side that is hit by the hammer. I made that flat again with my dremel . In the same time I replaced the o ring in the valve house. Now the leak is gone

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