Ok new to airguns and short distance shooting,tried setting scope at 30 yards on my R9 I ran out of elevation it’s coming up 2 inches low at 30 yards should i get a 20MOA base or is the something special I need to do with an air gun I’m clueless.I just don’t want to start doing things to the gun until someone who knows advises me on the correct procedure.
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Out of elevation at 30 yards
- Thread starter badduck
- Start date
I bought adjustable scope rings that give more control. I dial the turret all the way down and then add about 25 to 30 clicks up. Then I have a solid and stable bench where I fire a shot and instead of using the turrets I adjust the scope by gently moving up or down and then tighten it down when the reticle is just below the poi.
At that point I can dial up just a few to be at zero. This will now give you the majority of elevation adjustment as well.
You can see the difference between the first and second rings. Hope this helps you and there are a few videos on the process as well on youtube as well.
At that point I can dial up just a few to be at zero. This will now give you the majority of elevation adjustment as well.
You can see the difference between the first and second rings. Hope this helps you and there are a few videos on the process as well on youtube as well.
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Badduck
First, what kind of a scope is it? If you turned the turrets to the extremes, you might have damaged the scope, particularly the cheaper budget models.
What you must do next, is return the scope to it's optical center. It's not a difficult process, but a little long to describe here. Check out my YouTube channel, Field Target Tech, I have an episode on optically centering a scope.
The next order of business is to get a set of fully adjustable scope rings. I use Sportsmatch, make sure you get the elevation and windage adjustable model, it'll save you a lot of trouble down the road. Make sure you get the right size to fit your scope tube. They are expensive, but will 100% solve your problem.
Any other questions or inquiries, please feel free to ask.
Tom Holland
Field Target Tech
Fieldtargettech.com
First, what kind of a scope is it? If you turned the turrets to the extremes, you might have damaged the scope, particularly the cheaper budget models.
What you must do next, is return the scope to it's optical center. It's not a difficult process, but a little long to describe here. Check out my YouTube channel, Field Target Tech, I have an episode on optically centering a scope.
The next order of business is to get a set of fully adjustable scope rings. I use Sportsmatch, make sure you get the elevation and windage adjustable model, it'll save you a lot of trouble down the road. Make sure you get the right size to fit your scope tube. They are expensive, but will 100% solve your problem.
Any other questions or inquiries, please feel free to ask.
Tom Holland
Field Target Tech
Fieldtargettech.com
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Some rings/ mounts have moa built into them. Flip them to check, front ring to the back and back ring to the front. Also some scopes will bind if the rings are too tight.
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If your budget is tight , you can get away putting two pieces of old credit card under the rear of the scope . loosen the front cap and retighten so as not to bind the pressure on the tube .
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I'd start off by telling us what scope and rings you are using.
I'd try to shim it line @JimNM said. I've done this and it works just fine. I used small aluminum shims cut from a beer or coke can. You place it under the rear of the scope, between it and the bottom ring.
I'd try to shim it line @JimNM said. I've done this and it works just fine. I used small aluminum shims cut from a beer or coke can. You place it under the rear of the scope, between it and the bottom ring.
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I agree with Tom Holland. Buy a set of fully adjustable Sportsmatch rings. I don't shim scopes because I believe it MIGHT damage the tube. Others certainly feel differently. The fully adjustable rings will solve your problem with NO stress on the scope tube.
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I have had great success shimming scopes. You can even use a layer or two of Scotch tape on the rear scope mount. It doesn’t take much to get the required degree of adjustment. Just make sure, as SteveKralsAround, JimMn and Wahoowad to loosen the front scope mount cap first and then not crank them down too tightly.
There is no question that the ideal way is to get adjustable scope mounts, but its not necessary in my opinion.
There is no question that the ideal way is to get adjustable scope mounts, but its not necessary in my opinion.
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Thank you for all the advice i ended up shimming the rear ring and its got me back on track,I will be buying a set of the adjustable scope rings in the near future.
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I can't tell you the number of soda can strips I have seen placed under the rear ring at the gun shop I used to work at.
I've found that paper based shims compress over time leading to trouble down the road.
Will
I've found that paper based shims compress over time leading to trouble down the road.
Will
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Amen, been a gunsmith for over 30 yrs, never shim mounts unless your willing to risk crushing the scope tube, which will void your warranty. Use an adjustable mount !! Cant remember how many crushed tubes and other scope damage caused by shimming over the years.
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As gunsmiths know when shimming scopes on powder burners the shim goes between the bases and the receiver .
You would already know that though ....
So yes , I'm calling B.S. on you
You would already know that though ....
So yes , I'm calling B.S. on you
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As gunsmiths know when shimming scopes on powder burners the shim goes between the bases and the receiver .
You would already know that though ....
So yes , I'm calling B.S. on you
Who?
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I fail to see how a coke can shim placed under the scope tube will lead to a crushed scope tube. Lets have a little thought experiment here...
Let's assume you torque your ring caps to 15 in-lbs. So WITHOUT a shim your scope tube is sandwiched in contact between the ring cap and scope base at 15 in-lbs. Then assume you install a coke can shim and re-tighten and properly torque down your ring caps. Now your scope tube is once again sandwiched in contact between the ring cap and the coke can shim (which is resting against the scope base). So what's the difference?
I'm sure someone will come up with an extreme example but nobody has recommended an extreme example to OP here.
Let's assume you torque your ring caps to 15 in-lbs. So WITHOUT a shim your scope tube is sandwiched in contact between the ring cap and scope base at 15 in-lbs. Then assume you install a coke can shim and re-tighten and properly torque down your ring caps. Now your scope tube is once again sandwiched in contact between the ring cap and the coke can shim (which is resting against the scope base). So what's the difference?
I'm sure someone will come up with an extreme example but nobody has recommended an extreme example to OP here.
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I'm not sure if I'm getting BS called on me, but let me defend myself just in case.
Firstly I never said I was a gunsmith, I re-blued the guns and refinished the stocks.
Secondly I have seen many a rifle shimmed, with soda can strips, under the rear scope tube.
I have never seen, in the 4 years I worked there, any scope damaged by shimming. In fact I've never seen it in my entire life.
When a customer walks in with a 10-22 and wants it fast and extremely cheap, you do what you have to do.
The customers with the 300 Win Mag Weatherby's had the resources to do it correctly.
Just sayin!!
Will
Firstly I never said I was a gunsmith, I re-blued the guns and refinished the stocks.
Secondly I have seen many a rifle shimmed, with soda can strips, under the rear scope tube.
I have never seen, in the 4 years I worked there, any scope damaged by shimming. In fact I've never seen it in my entire life.
When a customer walks in with a 10-22 and wants it fast and extremely cheap, you do what you have to do.
The customers with the 300 Win Mag Weatherby's had the resources to do it correctly.
Just sayin!!
Will
Upvote 0