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Original Diana 45 Questions
- Thread starter Rossa
- Start date
If I had only known that before! Seriously, that’s why I want a manual, so I can hopefully learn that kind of thing.
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Don't expect much info if you find a manual.. The parts blowup was very small and hard to read. What ever you do...do NOT squirt and oil onto the spring!!! If you want to lube it, get some moly paste/ grease and smear a little on the spring with a cotton swab, especially at each end. Over lube can be as bad as no lube... I started with a 45 with a leather seal, great gun, mine was very accurate and a great offhand shooting rifle!!
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Also, as long as I have everyone’s attention (thanks for that!), if the gun is cocked but I don’t want to fire it, and I don’t want to dry fire it (I’ve read that’s bad), is there a way to uncock it without dry firing?
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Break the barrel open. Hold the buttstock against your body and hold the end of the barrel. Release the safety. And pull the trigger. YOU HAVE TO hold the barrel to stop it from slamming shut. It will be under spring tension. Then gently let the barrel close.
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The first thing I would do is...just shoot the darn thing!
A spring-piston airgun is a sturdy implement of agricultural simplicity, not a delicate surgical instrument. Unless there is an obvious problem, there is no need to douse it in oil before knocking off a few shots.
As noted above, oiling the spring is not really a thing at all. And before you oil the piston, find out whether the gun has a leather or plastic piston seal - you don't use the same lubes for both, and as I noted previously, the 45 used BOTH materials at various times.
If you will post the serial number (on the breech block) and construction date (on the left rear receiver) we can probably research that for you.
Last but not least, I really think you'd enjoy checking out other resources - google is your friend. There are other forums, YouTube videos, dozens of dealers, and other sources of great info out there (for example, googling "airgun transfer port" or "tap-loading airgun" woulda been educational and saved you a couple posts above).
A spring-piston airgun is a sturdy implement of agricultural simplicity, not a delicate surgical instrument. Unless there is an obvious problem, there is no need to douse it in oil before knocking off a few shots.
As noted above, oiling the spring is not really a thing at all. And before you oil the piston, find out whether the gun has a leather or plastic piston seal - you don't use the same lubes for both, and as I noted previously, the 45 used BOTH materials at various times.
If you will post the serial number (on the breech block) and construction date (on the left rear receiver) we can probably research that for you.
Last but not least, I really think you'd enjoy checking out other resources - google is your friend. There are other forums, YouTube videos, dozens of dealers, and other sources of great info out there (for example, googling "airgun transfer port" or "tap-loading airgun" woulda been educational and saved you a couple posts above).
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Don't shoot in rapid repetition immediately after oiling. Give it a chance to expel extra oil to reduce the risk of detonation.
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It’s always interesting to see how people make DIY repairs parts.
But my 1984 Mdl 45 leather piston seal was riveted onto the piston.
So, when time comes to replace the seal. Might as well get the adapter to convert it to a modern seal.
But my 1984 Mdl 45 leather piston seal was riveted onto the piston.
So, when time comes to replace the seal. Might as well get the adapter to convert it to a modern seal.
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