Original Diana 45 Questions

[Rossa]

New guy here looking for some help. Just acquired a used Beeman 250 and I need an owners manual. Beeman's webpage has email addresses and phone numbers, but no one answers the phone, no voicemail, and they don't answer emails. I'd like a manual so I know how to lube, disassemble, etc.
Any help available? Thanks in advance.

 

[MDriskill]

It's a re-labeled Diana model 45, also sold here as the RWS 45 for many years, a popular model in the late 70's through 80's. Forget Beeman, their association with Diana airguns ended 30+ years ago, as did production of the original model 45.

The gun probably has tiny numbers stamped on the left rear receiver. This is the production date in MM YY format.

When buying parts etc., be aware there is a newer "model 45" which is based on the popular model 34. It is quite different internally from the original gun.

Parts diagram for the original:

Airgun Spares - Diana/Original/Gecado - 45 - T. W. Chambers & Co

twchambers.co.uk

 

[Rossa]

Good information. Any idea where I can find an owners manual since there apparently isn’t a way to contact Beeman?

 

[Rossa]

Darn, been searching online for a couple of hours to find a Beeman, Diana or RWS manual for this gun. This is my first “adult” air gun, and I know that the leather seal needs to be oiled, but I don’t know where to oil it or the spring. I don’t want to just squirt oil everywhere and hope that I hit the right spot.

 

[MDriskill]

I don't know that an "owner's manual" as such exists for this rifle. Maintaining a break-barrel springer is a pretty straightforward thing, just spend a bit of time researching that. You oil the piston seal through the transfer port. If the gun has been decently maintained and regularly used, there may not be any immediate need to douse anything in oil.

The first thing to check is the breech seal. It's a straightforward O-ring, (sorry don't recall size) and easy to replace. It will likely have a couple thin metal shims under it (per the parts diagram).

The model 45 was made with both leather and synthetic piston seals over time I believe. Take a bit of time to check that out vs. the production date. Here's a couple of very good blog series that will give you an idea what the 45's innards look like. You should be able to google up plenty of info but again be sure you're looking at the right "model 45."

Another Airgun Blog

A blog about tinkering with airguns

anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com

RWS Diana 45: Part 6 | Pyramyd Air Blog

B.B. blog post titled RWS Diana 45: Part 6 explores new information, history, tips and tricks at Pyramyd Air.

www.pyramydair.com

 

[Rossa]

Since I am new to this, I have ask: what and where is the transfer port? That’s the kind of thing I would hope to learn from a manual.

 

[JimNM]

Transfer port is the gap between the pressure tube and the rifle chamber. Often time the Transfer Port (TP) is adjustable to effectively lower power levels by reducing airflow.

 

[Rossa]

Thanks for the links. I read them, but they both talk about disassembling the gun in order to lube things. I’m not ready (if I ever will be) to try to disassemble this thing. There has to be a simple way to lube the gun without disassembly.

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

Search: Diana Model 45
Same build

 

[MDriskill]

I posted those links just so you could get a feel for what the 45's innards look like, you are right no need to start ripping it apart!

This page from Brad Troyer's excellent American Airguns site has quite a few useful general articles.

American Airguns - General Information

American Airguns Website - The first website about airguns, air pistol, air rifle, and accessories.

www.airguns.net

 

[Rossa]

I posted those links just so you could get a feel for what the 45's innards look like, you are right no need to start ripping it apart!

This page from Brad Troyer's excellent American Airguns site has quite a few useful general articles.

American Airguns - General Information

American Airguns Website - The first website about airguns, air pistol, air rifle, and accessories.

www.airguns.net

Good link and info. I read one of the threads on that link and it leaves me with two questions.
First, it refers to “tap loading “ guns and “rotating the tap” to oil them. What is a tap loading gun? I have a plain old break barrel gun and the link didn’t address those.
Second, it says to absolutely not use a petroleum based oil, and recommends Beeman oils. Since Beeman is apparently out of business, what do I use?
Thanks

 

[MDriskill]

You will probably have better luck if you re-titled this thread something like "Original Diana 45 questions." This was a common rifle in its day, but that day was a long time ago, and the "Beeman 250" markings are pretty rare. Only a few old nerds like me would even recognize the name.

Here's a great dealer for maintenance supplies etc.:

Pyramyd AIR | Premier Online Outdoor Store

Pyramyd Adventures in Recreation.

www.pyramydair.com

 

[Rossa]

You will probably have better luck if you re-titled this thread something like "Original Diana 45 questions." This was a common rifle in its day, but that day was a long time ago, and the "Beeman 250" markings are pretty rare. Only a few old nerds like me would even recognize the name.

Here's a great dealer for maintenance supplies etc.:

Pyramyd AIR | Premier Online Outdoor Store

Pyramyd Adventures in Recreation.

www.pyramydair.com

Took your advice and renamed the thread. Still trying to figure out what a tap loading gun is and whether my gun is that kind.
I guess I’m overwhelmed at the complexity of what I thought would be pretty simple. I just want to shoot the gun, but I’d like to lube it first, and I keep hearing a lot of terms that mean nothing to an air gun rookie like me.

 

[survivor45]

I have a Diana Mdl 45. It was made in the mid 1980’s if I remember correctly. And it had a leather seal. It shot ok.
I ended up replacing the leathers seal with one from Vortek. It was a bit of a project. And the first time I ever rebuilt a spring piston air gun. You would need a spring compressor to take it apart. Depending on how handy you are. Most people just make them themselves.
Id say for now. Just lube it and shoot it. Mine is kinda pellet picky and hold sensitive. But still a nice gun in general

 

[Rossa]

I have a Diana Mdl 45. It was made in the mid 1980’s if I remember correctly. And it had a leather seal. It shot ok.
I ended up replacing the leathers seal with one from Vortek. It was a bit of a project. And the first time I ever rebuilt a spring piston air gun. You would need a spring compressor to take it apart. Depending on how handy you are. Most people just make them themselves.
Id say for now. Just lube it and shoot it. Mine is kinda pellet picky and hold sensitive. But still a nice gun in general

LOL. I would LOVE to lube it and shoot it! That’s what this thread is about. I still have no idea where to oil the leather seal, and whether I can oil the spring without taking the gun apart.

 

[Windmill01]

LOL. I would LOVE to lube it and shoot it! That’s what this thread is about. I still have no idea where to oil the leather seal, and whether I can oil the spring without taking the gun apart.

Crack the rifle open without cocking it. On the barrel side you’ll see the whole where you load the pellet. On the other side you will see a small hole in the end of the chamber, this is the transfer port.
Im not sure how much oil you need to put in the transfer port a couple of drops at a time would be the way I would go. Then leave the rifle standing on its but pad for a day and try it.
As for the spring turn your rifle over and using a cotton bud a small amount of molly paste on the spring. You don’t need a lot as when you shoot it the paste will spread over the spring.
This is the most simple way I can put it after reading your post.Good luck.
Gary

 

[survivor45]

Check out this blog

What to oil – Part 2 Oiling piston and breech seals | Pyramyd Air Blog

B.B. blog post titled What to oil – Part 2 Oiling piston and breech seals explores new information, history, tips and tricks at Pyramyd Air.

www.pyramydair.com

 

[Rossa]

OK, I’m going to ask a really stupid, rookie question, but I have already admitted that I am a totally uninformed rookie.
When the break barrel is closed, it appears that there is one long tube going back from the muzzle into the receiver.
When the barrel is broken open, you can see the hole where the pellet is placed and a corresponding hole in the receiver. Is the hole in the receiver where the oil goes?

 

[Windmill01]

Yep

 

[Rossa]

Thank you. I will put a few spoonfuls of motor oil in it tonight and shoot it tomorrow.

Not really. I’ve read a lot online lately and I’ll start with a couple of drops. And not motor oil.