Optisan Scopes

Anyone have experience with Optisan scopes? Finding high quality scopes that have parallax adjustments that go down to 10 meters is difficult. Add to that 'first focal plane' (still trying to decide if I prefer FFP or SFP) limits the choices further. I've also been looking at the latest version of the Hawke Sidewinder. I like the elevation window that shows just which revolution one is on, the 56mm objective and the improved glass. I am currently using Hawke Airmax 8-32x50 scopes (SFP) on my FX Crowns.
 
I can't find the Optisan scope issues and replacement with black stuff inside thread searching online (they must have deleted it if they were a paying sponsor of the other forum). That brand is questionable when it comes to warranty based on what was posted on several different forums including this one. If I was absolutely forced to choose against my will kicking and screaming between a Hawke and Optisan I would pick the Hawke but that brand got plenty of issues from owners posts if you do a search on THIS FORUM. Yet another Hawke issue....

Beware warranty applies to only the original owner with proof of receipt for these brands.

I would choose AT MINIMUM the Athlon Midas TAC (OR ABOVE) before either of these. At least Athlon has no questions warranty.

I would read up on the optics section and do a search for the specific scope you seek and do some reading so you know what you are getting yourself into before spending your hard earned money. Read what actual owners have to say and not video infomercials.




 
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I OWN 4 Optisans .. had a 5th & sold it being a Connect 3-12 which was never clear & crisp.

The older MTC / Optisan 4-16x50 Viper is IMO one of the Best Hunter class field target scopes ever made. Also have a 3-12x44 Viper * Sadly these are no longer manufactured.

Have 1 each of the Newer 4-16x44 EVX series, an "F" which is a FFP and an "I" being the SFP. Both these have much clearer class and finer reticles tho don't range find via parrilax as well as the Vipers did/do.



ALL focus down to @ 9 yards being 10 yard solid !



Had a warranty issue once 4-5 years and it was promptly taken care of by Jeff at Trenier outdoors. 
 
Optisan are good airgun scopes that focus down to 10 yards as well as Hawkes, Aztecs, many Sightrons, Mueller, Nikko-Sterling, UTG/Leapers, and a few others. People will argue which are good and which aren't. Depends on your application, budget, etc. For general airgun shooting, I like Hawkes. Competition, Sightron SIII The longer you are in this hobby, the more airguns and scopes you will own.
 
Thanks everyone for your input.

Matthias - 6-8 on the low end - between 24 and 32 on the high end. Would prefer 32 if the scope was clear and bright. I like the Hawke Airmax 8-32X50 I have now but is difficult to find the sight picture as the eye relief and eye position seems to get extremely sensitive on 32 power. At times if the sun is right (even with the sun shield) everything gets whited out unless I find that tiny sweet spot.

Price limit is $800.00 as " I would like to duplicate it on the rest of my guns when I find "the right scope'. I'd hate to pay $1000 - $2000 and then have to multiply that by 3 or 4.

As for warranty... Good warranties are nice but I am pretty easy on my scopes and never needed warranty repairs on any of my scopes over the years regardless of price. If I had something catastrophic happen I'd just trash it and buy a new one.

I'm still up in the air about FFP or SFP. I like the idea of FFP but don't like how small the reticle and divisions get on the lower power ranges. I suppose where the larger reticle is needed at the greater distances it wouldn't be a problem though. Nevertheless, I feel having the reticle changing size on different powers would be annoying to me. I'm thinking I would prefer to dial in the corrections with the turrets, so I'm not sure the extra money for a FFP is really worth it to me.




 
DeadOnShot, 

For my personal scope shooping I started making list of scopes that fulfilled my requirements, in different magnification ranges. 

It morphed into three full-fledge Scope Specs Tables.... 😄 



🔶The requirements to make it onto the table were:

▪10 yard min. side parallax

▪Holdoff reticle (evenly spaced hash lines)

▪Exposed elevation turret

▪Around $500 or less





I'll attach you the table I made for scopes with at least 6x or less on the bottom end and 20x or more on the top end. 

This includes 6-24x, 5-25x, 5-30x, 4-24x, etc. There're are 60+ scopes.

What you'd need to add are the 8-32x and the higher prices scopes. Brands that probably have qualifying scopes in your price range but above my $500 might be (alphabetical order): Athlon, Bushnell,** Element(!), Falcon (has a couple of 10-50x60), Meopta(!), Nightforce (very nice NX8, very pricey, only 3 scopes do 10y), Primary Arms, Riton (X3 and X5 are very nice but $$ — you might find their discontinued RT-S models for less $), Sightron,*** Shepherd* (only BRS 5-25x56 w/ BRS-MIL or -MOA ret.), Swampfox, SWFA (refurb at www.samplelist.com).

Notes:

*These mfctr. have a great catalog for download that includes a table for all their scopes, with specs easy to compare and to find those that have a 10y parallax: Athlon, Burris, Shepherd, Sightmark

**many of theirs scopes have capped elevation turrets 😟 

***To find which scopes have 10y parallax, download their PDF catalog and do a search for the word "yard".

****RE Burris: Thank you, Burris, thank you for completely ignoring airgunners by essentially not providing scopes with a 10y parallax





🔶 Now, if you want the inside scoop on the quality of the glass of a certain scope, and the general quality — Odoyle is the man who can give you a well-founded opinion.





🔶On FFP and SFP: 

I'm an FFP guy.... Yet I find a host of reasons not to use FFP. 🤣 

Here I discuss them at length, maybe it's helpful. 

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/ffp-the-reticle-lines-are-too-thick-at-max-magnification-plz-explain/#post-643801 





Happy scope shopping!

Matthias 



❌ Attachment: Scopes Specs Table 6-20x

download.png
View attachment SCOPE SPECS TABLE. For 6-20x 6-24x, 5-20x, 5-30x Magnification. 116. 2020-09. TABLE.1604118209.pdf


 
JungleShooter - Thanks for all the information. OMG! That is one heck of a table. That must have taken weeks (or months) to create. Do you take the time to update it yearly as new or updated models come out?

I get so frustrated when I go to scope manufacturer websites. You have to spend hours/days going through all of their models to find the couple that fit your requirements. Why can't they (as a first page) have a table of all models with all of the specs and msrp where you can sort by columns of interest (if you want) with a check box next to each where you scan through and check off the models you would like to compare. From there you would be presented with a table comparing only those models. Each would have a button that would take to more detailed information and photos of a specific product. Ok got that off my chest!

With rifle scopes (like most products) It's hard to find one scope that possesses all of the features I want. For some strange reason, a lot of times the higher priced models, while being of higher quality, have fewer usability features. Also, most scopes that fit into the 'airgun' category are on the lower end of the quality scale. In those cases they may have the high quality brand name but made in China instead. Also, is there standard for quality of ED or HD glass? Does it mean that I will get the same optical quality in a $500 scope with ED or HD glass as in a $2000 scope with ED or HD glass?

Right now I have 4 Hawke SFP scopes and find they have a pretty good price to feature/quality ratio. My only gripe has been with the finicky sight picture at the 30+ magnifications. Brightness and sharpness have been more than adequate for my needs and they have all the features I would want.

I appreciate quality and am generally willing to pay for it. However, I firmly believe in the law of diminishing returns as it applies to most products regarding price vs function/quality. I may be willing to pay $1000+ for a pair of binoculars as I will only be buying one pair but when I am purchasing a scope that I will want to have continuity between multiple guns that factor becomes all that more important.

During the past days, in my search to resolve that issue of sight picture at higher powers and to satisfy my curiosity regarding FFP scopes (and to compare optical quality) I purchased the newest generation SFP Hawke Sidewinder 8-32X56 with the upgraded optics and an Optisan 6-24X50 FFP to toy around with. Most other scopes did not fit my requirements for one reason or another.

So far I have mixed emotions regarding FFP (Optisan) and still need to get my head around that. I have a hard time judging distance in the woods so I have a Leica range finder. I also have a Kestrel applied ballistic meter that communicates with the rangefinder. The range finder sends the Kestrel range, direction and inclination information and returns the elevation and windage corrections to the range finder where they are immediately displayed in the viewfinder. Therefore I am thinking that I would prefer to dial in the corrections using the turrets rather than using the reticle scale. Either that or I can calculate elevation corrections for a couple distances and memorize them and interpolate in between - again using the turrets.

As for the Hawke Sidewinder... It definitely fixes the sight picture issue and the 56mm objective provides a very bright and sharp image. It is definitely a lot of scope for the money. I like the scale window on the elevation as which rotation the elevation turret is on can get confusing otherwise. My only gripe is that it came with transparent, (slide off) lens covers rather than flip up lens caps.


 
I suggest you read the optics section. It isn't always true that you get what you pay for. In rare instances you May even get way more for what you pay for if you read up the forum. That's what a forum is for. Education. 

No $500 scope can match a $2000 scope unless they retail the around the same $1500-$2000 and you buy at clearance prices like I do and look for half price sales.

If you are lucky you can get a lot more scope than you pay for and even clearer and brighter than the Hawke you just bought for less than half of that.

I recently purchased a late model Sidewinder 30 with a list price of $539. It is very nice till I came across a different scope costing less than half that price that's brighter and clearer with better daytime visible illumination and eyebox and sight picture when a deliberate side by side was done. You don't need a rangefinder for it because you have to get the parallax dialed in perfect in order to get the sharp picture.


 
DeadOnShot,

🔶I share your frustrations about the webpages of most scope manufacturers!

And yes, it has taken a lot of time to make those Scope Specs Tables. I try to keep it updated. I'm missing the Element line and a few isolated scopes yet, and I'm thinking of extending the price cut-off to around $800.

I hope to have a webpage up and running sometime next year to do just what you said there: Have a sortable table....



🔶You have an awesome system of equipment, Leica Rangefinder + communicating Kestrel, cool! 👍🏼



🔶When you talk about your issue with the "sight picture" I'm not sure what you mean.



🔶Adjusting aim with the turrets vs. with the reticle

In PRS I read that most shooters dial the turret for adjusting the elevation to their ridiculous ranges, but then use the reticle to adjust for wind — because wind changes so quickly that this seems the best for their shooting scenario. PRS is similar to airgunning in that both have to make (for their kill zone) large elevation adjustments.

A squirrel hunter in the woods will rarely dial the turrets because his shots are both super rushed and very short, inside 30y.

If you end up exclusively dialing your turrets instead of using the reticle for adjusting your POI — then that gives you a lot more freedom in choosing scopes....:

(a) You won't need a holdoff reticle — plain crosshairs or a duplex will do just fine, even better as they don't clutter your view.

(b) You won't need an FFP scope — what would be its benefit over an SFP?

(c) You would want a scope that has sturdy turrets to last you — and preferrably from a company that gives you a lifetime no-hassles warranty — because eventually the turrets could break.... 

(d) Other features: Exposed turrets and large turrets with either 10mil or 25moa per revolution (instead of the dinky 6mil/15moa).




🔶 On glass quality, ED, HD, and how made-in-China features in all this: ➔ Ask Odoyle, he's got the inside scoop. 👍🏼 



Matthias
 
Odoyle - Thanks for your input. While the reason that I am on this forum is to learn, a lot of what we read is subjective. I try to look for trends in what people are saying and for things I didn't consider or for hearing another point of view. With that being said,,, As I just did with 2 scopes I just purchased - the Sidewinder 8-32X56 SFP and Optisan 6-24X50 - I prefer to form my own opinions about certain things my using the item. I have almost walked away from purchasing numerous items in the past because of some of the bad reviews only to purchase them and find I loved them and didn't have any of the problems that people complained about. Nevertheless I do like to hear opinions from actual users and as I mentioned, look for trends

Unfortunately I don't have any options for getting extreme discounts on shooting equipment and usually in closeouts the items available are not really what I want and would have to compromise just to save money. I have on occasions bought the best available only to spare myself the trouble of spending months searching for something nearly as good at a much lower price. Nevertheless, with items that I will need several of I cannot afford that luxury. It comes down to the item maybe not being the best available but one that serves my purpose. Although I will never walk away for "better for less".

On the Sidewinder 30 with a list price of $539 you purchased - are you using the parallax as a range finder? All scopes I've had experience with warn about doing that because the range markings are just approximations.


 
I'm not using the Hawke at all its back in its box only going to be used to compare other scopes I buy pretty much buy all of them and return most probably 90-95% and lately 95-99% returned and keep the best 1% to 5%. The other cheaper brand I paid less than half the price of the Hawke is better in all aspects including range finding after doing a side by side IMHO.

I have a 100 yard seeing ants crawling on the target test at maximum power. Most can't see them clearly.
 
JungleShooter - I am looking forward to seeing your web page ... and thanks for sharing all of your work in creating the tables.

Most of my powder burning shooting experiences have been at fixed distances (target shooting) or at relative close distances (hunting). With the ballistic curves of those rifles I didn't worry much about elevation correction and I just waited for the wind to subside. However, air guns are a whole different world in that regard and (I guess) what attracted me to the sport (among other things).

As for the sight picture issue I was having at the higher powers with my Hawke Airmax... I felt I had to adjust my eye distance from the scope and move my head around to find that pin size spot where I could see the target clearly. If I wasn't dead on that spot the target (and image) was generally whited out almost like glare from the sun but the sun was high in the sky, the sun shade was on and it wasn't there on the lower powers. As I mentioned, I do not see that at all on the new Sidewinder which also goes to 32 power. It does seem like the 56mm objective is better in all regards. In my case my scope mounts were already high enough to clear the FX crown magazine so the larger objective didn't cost me anything in barrel to scope CL distance.

I do squirrel hunt and I find that the closer shots provide me with the least amount of time to fiddle with things. I am currently sighted in at 25 yards and on anything closer just guesstimate to account for the scope to barrel distance.

As for convenience of using turrets vs reticle scale... that is something I haven't completely made my mind up on yet. I am leaning toward using the turrets right now though.

When I installed the Sidewinder on my gun I turned the elevation knob down to the bottom and backed off some so I was on a number line in the elevation window. Then I sighted in the gun and rough adjusted elevation with my FX No-Limit scope mounts until I was just a couple clicks away. Then I adjusted the turret for dead on the bull and reset the turret cap to zero. Don't know if that is a good way of doing things but felt it would give me the most elevation adjustment. The gun was shooting 5 shot one hole groups at 25 yards almost the size of the bullet so I suspect everything should be OK. And that was with the FX hybrid slugs which amazes me as it is not a slug liner. I love the expansion on those slugs!
 
DeadOnShot, 😊

thanks for clarifying what you mean with sight picture! 👍🏼



🔶This is often called the "eye box" — an imaginary "box" somewhere infront of the ocular lens that your eye needs to be in in order to see the full scope image without any corners of the image blacked out. 

(I read an extensive report on top tier long range scopes, where the tester spend thousands (in dollars and in work hours) — with full scientific backing, the works. And not even he was able to measure the eye box. But they eye box exists!)



🔶 So, the closest thing to "measure" the eye box is to measure the exit pupil.

Many scope manufacturers give that spec, some don't (and you could calculate it to get a rough estimate, but every scope is different).

Calculation: Objective diameter divided by the magnification





🔶 I made a table to see what objective size gives you how much exit pupil at a certain magnfication (attached).

You see that your choosing a 56mm instead of a 50mm objective on your Hawke helped with the eyebox. 👍🏼

However, at very high magnifications there isn't much that you can do but struggle with getting into and staying in the eye box. (Of course, you can always reduce the magnification and make it easier on yourself.)



Matthias



❌ Attachment: Recommended Exit Pupil Size — to keep the eye box reasonably large.

download.png
View attachment SCOPE Exit Pupil Size Recommended. 02.1604173765.pdf