Optical zero

I dialed my Hawke adjustable zoom scope to "optical zero" then reattached it to the rifle and was disappointed to see that the scope was way off. So, I adjusted the scope to print where I wanted the bullet to go, but in the end, both elevation and windage were almost at their extreme limits as before.
Am I doing this wrong?
Something is misaligned for windage, adjustable rings or tilted bases will help if you're at elevation limits on your optic. I run 30 moa of tilt on all my guns that get shot past 50 yards.... Except one and it has a 30mm tube.

Don't be afraid to shim that optic if you need to, but i do suggest looking for the source of the alignment issue. Weaver, picatinny and nato rails all look the same, and for the most part are, but don't fit and interchange exactly. I shimmed my buddies aea with business card strips for windage and elevation and it's still holding zero a year later and taking ground squirrels.
 
I dialed my Hawke adjustable zoom scope to "optical zero" then reattached it to the rifle and was disappointed to see that the scope was way off. So, I adjusted the scope to print where I wanted the bullet to go, but in the end, both elevation and windage were almost at their extreme limits as before.
Am I doing this wrong?
Last time I had trouble with not being able to adjust a scope it was some cheap utg scope rings causing the issue. A one piece cantilever scope mount can provide a solid way to attach to a rail.

What about something like this 20 moa mount.

 
Last time I had trouble with not being able to adjust a scope it was some cheap utg scope rings causing the issue. A one piece cantilever scope mount can provide a solid way to attach to a rail.

What about something like this 20 moa mount.

Every single time for me it has happened with a very reliable scope all of a sudden needing 90moa /30 mrad of elevation to hit paper. Every times its happened ive either mix and matched rings or tried crap rings or using a rail riser. Tighten everything to spec. Grab some rings you've had work on something else or a scope you know is 100% chances are it isn't the optic, almost never is.
 
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most cases it is not the scope,it is the mounts or rings,thus you need to get the scope mounted in the rings as close to zero as possible ,then use the scope adjustments to fine tune.....it is not the scope,I never had problem with Hawke scopes...before I even mount a scope I make sure the base and rings are centered. Some air guns need adjustable rings or a mount with added moa built in,as far as the windage the rings may be at a angle,
Lesson here to to not blame the scope first; the mounts and rings need to be alaigned right.
 
Optical zero and the Mechanical zero of any decent scope shall be very close. And this what I accept only.

I even managed to dual purpose my X50 target scope (with 20MOA single piece mount) between my Impact variant shooting 50-100 Meters and my f-class W308 shooting 100-500 Meters. .... Not more then 3-4 clicks L-R when swapping the scope between the guns.

Any misalignment error may come from cheap rings or the picatinny/NATO rail attached to your rifle.
 
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I dialed my Hawke adjustable zoom scope to "optical zero" then reattached it to the rifle and was disappointed to see that the scope was way off. So, I adjusted the scope to print where I wanted the bullet to go, but in the end, both elevation and windage were almost at their extreme limits as before.
Am I doing this wrong?

At what distance are you zeroing? That can make a difference when adjusting elevation, of course. And it depends on the scope specs.

For example, for long distance rifle rigs, the scope mounts may need to have some angulation built in. Otherwise, the scope runs out of elevation adjustment. My Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor uses mounts with 20 MOA angulation built into them. That allows me to dial in for longer distances, but would max out the turret at shorter distances.

But you also mentioned that your WINDAGE is maxed out. Now that's strange.

So, assuming it's not the shooter and you're zeroing with the rifle stabilized... something is wrong with... the scope, the gun, or the scope mounts. Which is the most likely of those three things?

I agree with the other comments.... the scope mounts are the most likely culprit. Perhaps the mounts are cheap / out of spec. Or perhaps it's the mountING. Something got wonky in the mounting process. Maybe try RE-mounting the scope. Did you do it properly? Torqued (with a torque driver or wrench) the screws gradually / incrementally in a "criss-cross-pattern?"

Is the scope mount a one-piece? Or two pieces?
 
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I dialed my Hawke adjustable zoom scope to "optical zero" then reattached it to the rifle and was disappointed to see that the scope was way off. So, I adjusted the scope to print where I wanted the bullet to go, but in the end, both elevation and windage were almost at their extreme limits as before.
Am I doing this wrong?
Remove the scope and look through the bore at a distant object - does the reticle align naturally? If not, your mounts need adjustment.
 
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I did not buy it, I got it for testing and to write a review, and I can keep the parts.
Some new China made scope brand.
The scope 4-40x56 is OK-ish glass @ 100, the single piece mount cosmetically looks impressive, but is not sitting flat on the pic rail, it has a major design flaw.
The mount is a total junk trash garbage. And I let them know that.
Waited for a replacement but finally ended up ordering a new single piece mount - a knock off SPUHR with 20 MOA built in - from aliexpress.
After some three weeks of travel it is with a delivery guy somewhere around my corner. Will see the scope testing next with some decent mount.
 
I dialed my Hawke adjustable zoom scope to "optical zero" then reattached it to the rifle and was disappointed to see that the scope was way off. So, I adjusted the scope to print where I wanted the bullet to go, but in the end, both elevation and windage were almost at their extreme limits as before.
Am I doing this wrong?
Set both the turrets back to their middle point
using a good set of rings center and level your scope
set a 30”x 30” paper target at 10 yards and take a shot at center bull
adjust your turrets windage to center
adjust your elevation turret to 2“ below the bull
move your target to 25-30 yards and shoot again making your final adjustments for your zero
note…. If you can’t get on paper at 10 yards after resetting turrets to their middle position you probably have a gun/ Barrel / rings and or /scope issues
 
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I dialed my Hawke adjustable zoom scope to "optical zero" then reattached it to the rifle and was disappointed to see that the scope was way off. So, I adjusted the scope to print where I wanted the bullet to go, but in the end, both elevation and windage were almost at their extreme limits as before.
Am I doing this wrong?
@EricG.
When you optically zeroed your scope did you take both windage and elevation to their extreme position for counting clicks/revolutions back to center at the same time?
Or did you perform the operation on one and then the other?
It is important to do them separately (one at a time) or the internals are likely to misalign.

If you took them to extreme up or down and left or right, go back and repeat the process slowly and individually

Hope this helps

just my 2 clicks
Edward
 
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My .02¢, do not shim rings, you'll put torque on the scope. Get a 20MOA mount or Eagle Vision adjustable mounts. IMO the FX ones suck a brick. Ok, you've gotten that far, set a target at 10 yards, get your adjustment to zero. NOW you have a starting point, your windage will be darn close, move out to 25 yards, you'll easily be on paper way faster.