I have some old Beeman imported Springers that still are NIB, still have the hang tag on, etc.. I would like some advice on refreshing some of these old springers that were put away and never used. Should I wait to shoot them until I relube/clean/etc. Many of these have never been fired, most used very little, and from the paperwork in the boxes many were factory or dealer "Supertuned". Thank You, I am springer ignorant as far as working on them.
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Old Springers stored for years - how to lube/clean before use - vintage mint cond/NOS Beeman imports
- Thread starter dpauld
- Start date
hi @dpauld !
start with listing down the easily worn-down parts when not in use, e.g. Springers 10years back would have leather washers which are now synthetic.
Without Lubrication, They (leather washers) turn too hard to bring back to their original flexibility, so get new or find synthetic equivalents.
stock up some CLP if You've already checked and found rust on the moving parts.
Be careful of the trigger assy. as if there's rust, You'll need to work them up gently.
Barrel snake would also help, as the grooves catch rust if the gun is not in use and is without regular cleaning,
Breach seal may also have turned too hard and if not replaced, might not give good seal.
The Main spring is usually lubed with moly grease which may have dried out, CLP dip and wipe would ease it out.
Spring behind trigger might have been eaten by rust, and got weaker to break on further usage, check and get replacement.
That's pretty much You'd look for.
Nice to hear on Springers...
There's something about simple machines that permanently reserves a corner in Your heart, esp. when You've redone them after using...
-SoulSniper
start with listing down the easily worn-down parts when not in use, e.g. Springers 10years back would have leather washers which are now synthetic.
Without Lubrication, They (leather washers) turn too hard to bring back to their original flexibility, so get new or find synthetic equivalents.
stock up some CLP if You've already checked and found rust on the moving parts.
Be careful of the trigger assy. as if there's rust, You'll need to work them up gently.
Barrel snake would also help, as the grooves catch rust if the gun is not in use and is without regular cleaning,
Breach seal may also have turned too hard and if not replaced, might not give good seal.
The Main spring is usually lubed with moly grease which may have dried out, CLP dip and wipe would ease it out.
Spring behind trigger might have been eaten by rust, and got weaker to break on further usage, check and get replacement.
That's pretty much You'd look for.
Nice to hear on Springers...
There's something about simple machines that permanently reserves a corner in Your heart, esp. when You've redone them after using...
-SoulSniper
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That is good advice... I will go through them one at a time before I shoot. I just don't want to grenade a mint condition collectors item from some internal seal that has dried out from never being fired since it left the factory/dealer 35 years ago. Something I can't see. These were well cared for externally, there is no rust anywhere...
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Really? Just 10 years back in 2012 they were still using leather washers?
Back in 1976 I know they still used leather, but 10 years ago? Go ahead and pull the other one... LOL!
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I think most Beeman springers were using synthetic seals from the late '80s forward so I wouldn't worry too much about that. Having said that, sometimes old synthetic seal compositions do degrade and crumble, like the ones that Feinwerkbau used on the 124.
When my springers have been sitting up for a while I always break the barrel and move the barrel back and forth without fully cocking it to get the piston and seal moving again and distributing grease and I see how they feel. Maybe two or three drops of silicone chamber oil into the transfer port and do the same procedure, moving the barrel up and down without fully cocking to distribute the lube before shooting some warm-up shots.
Many times the greases will dry out in the power plant when they are very old. The volatile elements will disappear or they demulsify and get a little sticky. If they are still new in the box and you just had to start shooting them again, and they don't seem to be delivering good velocities, then a disassembly with Lube tune might be in order so that you can first remove any sludgy factory greases before re lubricating with something fresh. Don't be surprised if you get several dieseling shots with loud cracks when you first start shooting them, which is common with factory greases.
GL,
Feinwerk
When my springers have been sitting up for a while I always break the barrel and move the barrel back and forth without fully cocking it to get the piston and seal moving again and distributing grease and I see how they feel. Maybe two or three drops of silicone chamber oil into the transfer port and do the same procedure, moving the barrel up and down without fully cocking to distribute the lube before shooting some warm-up shots.
Many times the greases will dry out in the power plant when they are very old. The volatile elements will disappear or they demulsify and get a little sticky. If they are still new in the box and you just had to start shooting them again, and they don't seem to be delivering good velocities, then a disassembly with Lube tune might be in order so that you can first remove any sludgy factory greases before re lubricating with something fresh. Don't be surprised if you get several dieseling shots with loud cracks when you first start shooting them, which is common with factory greases.
GL,
Feinwerk
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I am a Sheridan and Benjamin collector who picked these springers up along the way when I bought out large collections. I kept these because I knew they were really nice. The only Springer in my Benjamin/Sheridan stuff is an imported Sterling that they were selling for awhile around the same time these Beeman springer imports were so popular. I had not looked at these in awhile, had them put away, but oh no, I think I am catching something here "Springer Flu". I got these out to sell them but...maybe I found springer heaven, Lol
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oh no, four of these are San Rafael/ Beeman FWB 124/127's . I do have a nice chrono I could set up for awhile and see what flies... That is the best advice I have heard yet my friend, thank you, makes sense too, thanx again, D
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Weihrauch stopped using leather for seals in the late 70’s/early 80’s. If you start tearing them down you will be putting unnecessary wear on a potential collectors item. I would practice cleaning up and shooting in the one in the most used condition but still check it’s rarity first. Go slow because you cannot undo wear and tear.
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Yep, you will have to replace those piston seals. I bought my 124 up new in the '80s, shot it like crazy through my youth but then in the 90s it got put away for storage and it sat for a while. In 2010 or 2011 when I started shooting it again the pieces of the crumbled piston seal started blowing out the barrel and I had poor velocity. Don't shoot it when it gets that way or you'll damage the dovetail button that retains the seal when the Piston slams home in the chamber.
Wow you have some very special, highly collectible rifles buddy! 127's are extremely rare!!
I got my rebuild supplies from air rifle headquarters. They are still in business and they have all the parts you need such as seals, springs, and specialty greases. I was lucky enough to get one of the last laminated stocks from arh for my original 124 s which had the plane standard stock originally.
There has been lots written about rebuilding these classic springers and you have several spring kits to choose from from more than one vendor. Some people (myself included) still prefer to use molybdenum disulfide greases on the piston seal and others are experimenting with newer Krytox formulations.
Glad I can help you, click the like on my post to help out my reaction score if you feel like it.
Regards,
Feinwerk
Wow you have some very special, highly collectible rifles buddy! 127's are extremely rare!!
I got my rebuild supplies from air rifle headquarters. They are still in business and they have all the parts you need such as seals, springs, and specialty greases. I was lucky enough to get one of the last laminated stocks from arh for my original 124 s which had the plane standard stock originally.
There has been lots written about rebuilding these classic springers and you have several spring kits to choose from from more than one vendor. Some people (myself included) still prefer to use molybdenum disulfide greases on the piston seal and others are experimenting with newer Krytox formulations.
Glad I can help you, click the like on my post to help out my reaction score if you feel like it.
Regards,
Feinwerk
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the photo is some of the ones I was talking about. The slings and scopes have not been mounted. The original diopter sights are wrapped up in the box and/or cases with the paperwork.
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DO NOT shoot unless you plan not to sell . As you know unfired is a big item in collectables
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The FWBs are definitely going to need rebuilt. The piston seals are likely a sticky crumbling mess by now.
The Weihrauch 77 is probably fine, unless it's "super tuned" and packed with that goop they used which is probably dried out. Piston seal is fine, the breech seal is likely smashed from sitting forever.
The Weihrauch 55 very likely has a leather seal. Some careful oiling through the transfer port with whatever oil you believe in will likely have it doing well.
The others I don't have firsthand experience with.
The Weihrauch 77 is probably fine, unless it's "super tuned" and packed with that goop they used which is probably dried out. Piston seal is fine, the breech seal is likely smashed from sitting forever.
The Weihrauch 55 very likely has a leather seal. Some careful oiling through the transfer port with whatever oil you believe in will likely have it doing well.
The others I don't have firsthand experience with.
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There are a couple guys here who are collectors and also post on Vintage Airguns Gallery. They should be able to help you determine the value of your guns as collector items. I'm thinking you should hear from them once they spot your post.
As for getting the guns in working order, it would depend on age. Older than 10 years it would be safest to tear them down, inspect/replace seals, and relube with modern synthetics. At least that is what I would do.
Nice collection!
As for getting the guns in working order, it would depend on age. Older than 10 years it would be safest to tear them down, inspect/replace seals, and relube with modern synthetics. At least that is what I would do.
Nice collection!
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I think you should let the collectors choose and buy before i start to fix up , except the ones your going to keep .
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