OK someone explain for me.

Read another poster's comments before I logged in about 5000 PSI check valve killing your compressor. Makes no sense to me at all; that's not how check valves work but sure.

https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Connection-Check-Foster-Nipple/dp/B07J2GQT8L

OR

https://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Air_Venturi_Fill_Check_Valve_Fits_Air_Venturi_Small_Carbon_Fiber_Tank/4970

One of those will work fine with whatever fitting you need on the other side either QC female or foster male. Just a normal fitting that would connect to your tank. Our PCP air rifles already have a check valve on them built in whether foster filled or probe filled.

The compressor hose connects to the Foster male nipple linked above.

You don't use two check valves, or check a check valve, or check check check a check valve, or do as the previous poster suggested. The linked above goes to the compressor end, when the tank has less pressure than the spring or the compressor hose the needle/disc is pushed forward and the valve opens because the increase of pressure and the pressure differential created opens it. The compressor can "push" harder than the spring can push back or the tank can push back.
 
Check valves are great! My 90 cu-in Ninja tank has one built in. They also act as a PMV which helps the filters filter out the water.
...

The check valve does not act as a PMV. The PMV allows the compressor to develop a high pressure before passing any air to the output, regardless of the output conditions. The high pressure facilitates the moisture condensation, making the moisture-trap/filter more efficient.

The PMV has little benefit if you always charge the tank before it gets below 2000-3000psi. When the tank is at 2000-3000psi, the compressor will build pressure quickly, regardless of whether you have a PMV, a check valve, or nothing. When filling a tank from empty, the PMV helps. A check valve will not help in that respect.

I have a 90 cu-in Ninja fill station. The benefit of the check valve is that you don't need to deal with a tank valve when filling the bottle.
 
Regarding the PMV, you're correct, I was thinking at it more from the aspect of a bottle top off versus filling from empty (often) where a PMV would be more necessary. I was implicitly inferring this was the case otherwise at 0 PSI I wouldn't use a check valve. I was always under the impression a PMV was not needed unless filling from empty because of the minor volume of air in the hose before 2000 PSI is reached with respect to moisture incursion. Either way, thanks, I appreciate the correction because there could be cases where someone has less than 2000 PSI in the tank but also not 0 PSI.
 
I use cheap Foster type non-return valves on all my filling accessories. There are multiple advantages to fitting these in the correct positions in the filling line. The only thing that you need to be careful about is to make sure that there is a bleed upstream of the valve location.
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Off and on topic. If one uses a small portable compressor these valves can isolate the compressor from the fill vessel plus any dryer tanks between so you can shut the compressor down without loosing the HP air in the fill line up. I carry two mid sized tanks 44cf and 74cf and a small oil,waterless compressor while RVing and hunting. On a reasonable day I can go through through 3-4 480cc tanks of air. So filling the larger tanks where no sourse is near is needed. So bleeding down the water-oil seperator is part of a volume problem.