OK - so I just bought a yong heng

Yeah. I've been reading lots here in these forums and elsewhere - keep it cool, change the oil frequently, and per youtuber Aaron Cantrell ( and others suggestions ) run the output side of it through an oil and moisture filter --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gR5ntxFhpU.  The latter I've just reached out to the seller off of ebay as it (ebay) keeps telling me the seller cannot accept payments right now. { 😒 ? } Hopefully the seller will respond and be able to sell it to me . . .

What I'm here to ask you guys is this - the stock water pump that these things ship with is widely regarded as not being up to the job and everyone says to swap it out with a bigger / better one. Okey doke. Googling around and even searching in here - I can't find any references. What have replacement pump have you guys bought - and where?

I recently saw quite a thread on these . . . here, or maybe over on GTA re: oil recommendations too. 

Thanks guys . . .
 
There's no need for a higher rate pump. The OE one is quite adequate. If you use a more powerful pump it will still be restricted by the size of the inlet and outlet spigots. It's not a bad idea to get a spare, just in case the original one fails. Frequent oil changes are also a fallacy. I have not heard of one instance of premature wear of the con-rod bearings or cylinder bore. Those are the only things that rely on oil for lubrication. I hear absurd statements like oil being cheap insurance sprouted around. Yes it is cheap but it is no insurance. Try making a claim to an oil company when your electric motor or switch burns out or a piston or O-ring fails. They are the things that are more likely to happen than worn out bearing surfaces.
 
I will second Eaglebeak that the included water pump is perfectly adequate. I did buy a second water pump (higher rated flow) and it made no discernable difference to the rate of cooling. A lot a different lubricants have been mentioned in quite a few threads (here and elsewhere). I personally am using full synthetic compressor oil. I have been using Royal Purple in mine but I am planning to switch to Husky full synthetic compressor oil when my supply runs out. The Husky oil is stocked at Home Depot and is clear. If you do decide to get a second water pump, Home Depot has them for wet tile saws.
 
Regarding oil, I just use cheap stuff from China. Tried #46 hydrulic oil and #100 compressor oil. cost is four bucks per liter. No difference seen. After 9 hours of run time, I cannot see any noticeable wearing of internals or degradation in performance. I have seen people recommending expensive oil for the compressor and I really don't think it's necessary or justifiable. If components wear out, just replace them. All are ridiculously cheap and widely available.
 
If you buy it from Walmart make sure you buy the warranty. I bought mine from Walmart. Warranty for 3 years was $33. So if it brakes within the next 2 1/2 years I don't have to worry about it
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Its well worth buying that warranty if that's true! YO
 
I purchased a "Yong Heng" compressor on the Walmart website from a 3rd party vendor.

When I opened the box, it was not the compressor that is shown on the website's picture. It didn't have the round red light on top and didn't even have the name Yong Heng printed on it. I immediately contacted the seller by e-mail and told them that was not the item I ordered and expected.

They told me that it was an original Yong Hang compressor but they were trying to promote "their own brand".

Now tell me how are you able to promote your own brand if you do not even put your name on it?

It looked to "fishy" and after many e-mails I convinced them to send me a prepaid label and I sent it back to them and called my credit card and explained the situation to them and got a refund.
 
I ditched the pump that came with my Tuxing compressor after the 1st time I used it. My Tuxing was nothing but problems with overheating, leaks, and tripping the breaker from the beginning and is now dead. The pump with bucket and frozen bottles just seamed like a lot of extra work. I ended up getting some tubing with adapters at the hardware store to hook it directly to my utility sink faucet. It ran a lot cooler that way and was less complicated. I never ran it in the middle of summer, but I think it would have still been better than using the pump. 
 
The only reason i bought a Ryobi wet tile saw water pump (14bux home depot) is because the one I got with my Y/H would start and stop intermittently not for more volume. Also check the bolts once and a while as they can vibrate loose and a thin rubber mat under the unit helps it from walking while its in use. I've had one for 2 years and it filled my 106 cu/ft tank many times. Good luck with yours. 
 
You may think I’m nuts, but increasing the water flow rate is counterproductive. In order for the heat to transfer from the compressor to the water, it has to flow slowly enough for that to happen. It’s like putting your finger on the stove. Do it fast and you won’t feel it. Do it slow and..YEOW!

I don't think you are nuts because you are correct to a point. Too slow and the opposite happens. Years ago I had a car and decided to take out the thermostat to make it run cooler in the summer. Bad idea as it immediately over heated. My auto shop teacher explained that the water was passing through the block too quickly that the heat wasn't given ample time to transfer. 
 
Use proper high pressure compressor oil. Almost all of the recommendations you get ARE NOT rated or intended for use in a high pressure compressor. Chemlube 751 or shell corena s2 p 150. Or something comparable. The change enterval for proper oil is LARGE. And the compressor only uses .3 litre. So, even a $60 gallon of proper oil will last you a few years with TONS of run time. 



Factory water pump is plenty adequate. The rate at which the water reservoir temp rises is very slow. (5gal) the water pump is far out-pacing any type of coolant heat soak. 
 
Well over a year using a Yong Heng myself. I agree with the above views that the factory water pump is fine-my original is still running and is all I've ever used. I disagree with the above that changing the oil regularly isn't needed. I use CE 750 lube (apparently amongst the best types available and not cheap) and I still change it frequently. A high heat/high load application with no rod bearing makes that area susceptible to damage from ANY trash or wear debris in the oil, not to mention low side rings and high side seals. Scrimping there is foolish IMO. Ice in the water and a good external fan blowing across the head will keep temperatures quite low-I recently filled a Great White from empty to 4400 and the highest temp noted was mid to upper 40's. Specific run times and temps noted were posted on this forum. These units can function very well but also seem to have a relatively high failure rate. Are the failures quality related or use/maintenance related? I certainly don't know but doing all one can to help protect the unit seems smart.
 
@Bandg ( and everyone else so far ) - last sentence - "I certainly don't know but doing all one can to help protect the unit seems smart."

Thus the reason for this post and I see that it's generated some useful chatter. Some good info here. NOT swapping out the water pump is pretty much the exact opposite of what I'd seen / read prior BUT there are enough of you stating that the default (OEM) one is "good enough" is promising. The CE lube / use of *good* high grade oils - that does back up what I've seen / read before. Parking a little fan in front of it is also a good idea.

@Biohazardman -- in your photo - the gold oil / water filtration thing - where did you get it if you don't mind? The seller for the one I found on e-bay hasn't replied ( hopefully not a covid victim or whatever - but who knows . . . :( ) - I'd like to get one of those too as they are highly recommended.

-=- jd -=-