Oil for Hong Yeng?

A quart of oil will last for a year or better. Royal purple is OK from what I have read but you can't see if it gets excessively dirty. I use the Husky synthetic blend compressor oil, from Home Depot, as it is clear and I can judge when it is dirty although I have an hour meter as well. If you decide to use motor oil make sure it is the non detergent stuff.

Changed mine at forty minutes run time the first time because it got really dark. After that I started changing it at three to five and now ten hour intervals. 
 
If not, can I get some recommendations for an alternative?

In my LPA YH I run CE-750. Zero odor as compared to what was in it prior. Figure if CE-750 is good enough for my LC-110 it'll be just fine in my LPA YH. The no odor thing is great!


Agreed. Straight 30 weight non detergent SYNTHETIC motor oil will work. The worst thing you can use is #46 hydraulic fluid. It stinks, no pun intended. A high quality compressor oil like Amsoil 100 compressor oil, Royal Purple, or Filtertechs CF500 which is the same as CE-750 but costs much less, is worth the extra cost. Your compressor will last longer and your nose will thank you. Petroleum base motor oil, detergent additives in motor oil, and #46 hydraulic fluid should never be used..
 
If not, can I get some recommendations for an alternative?

In my LPA YH I run CE-750. Zero odor as compared to what was in it prior. Figure if CE-750 is good enough for my LC-110 it'll be just fine in my LPA YH. The no odor thing is great!


Agreed. Straight 30 weight non detergent SYNTHETIC motor oil will work. The worst thing you can use is #46 hydraulic fluid. It stinks, no pun intended. A high quality compressor oil like Amsoil 100 compressor oil, Royal Purple, or Filtertechs CF500 which is the same as CE-750 but costs much less, is worth the extra cost. Your compressor will last longer and your nose will thank you. Petroleum base motor oil, detergent additives in motor oil, and #46 hydraulic fluid should never be used..

Why not 46 hydraulic oil? It is suggested to use from the manufacturer. I heard from a guy that rebuilds yong hengs for an amazon distributor that the only ones with seized bearings had used royal purple. He said use iso46 hydraulic oil only per manufacturer recommended specs. IDK. After hearing that I dumped the purple out and put in iso46. I just always see conflicting answers to this question.
 
If not, can I get some recommendations for an alternative?

In my LPA YH I run CE-750. Zero odor as compared to what was in it prior. Figure if CE-750 is good enough for my LC-110 it'll be just fine in my LPA YH. The no odor thing is great!


Agreed. Straight 30 weight non detergent SYNTHETIC motor oil will work. The worst thing you can use is #46 hydraulic fluid. It stinks, no pun intended. A high quality compressor oil like Amsoil 100 compressor oil, Royal Purple, or Filtertechs CF500 which is the same as CE-750 but costs much less, is worth the extra cost. Your compressor will last longer and your nose will thank you. Petroleum base motor oil, detergent additives in motor oil, and #46 hydraulic fluid should never be used..

Why not 46 hydraulic oil? It is suggested to use from the manufacturer. I heard from a guy that rebuilds yong hengs for an amazon distributor that the only ones with seized bearings had used royal purple. He said use iso46 hydraulic oil only per manufacturer recommended specs. IDK. After hearing that I dumped the purple out and put in iso46. I just always see conflicting answers to this question.


The "Chinglish" 4 page manuals recommend it. Hydaulic fluid stinks when it gets hot and it doesn't lubricate nearly as well as true compressor oil. It's made to pressurize hydaulics, not lubricate compressors. If you like the smell and the burned residue it leaves in your compressor, it's your option to continue using it.
 
Whenever this subject rears its head, which is often, you will get replies from people claiming "I use this brand oil and I haven't had any problems". The fact is, it doesn't matter what sort of oil you use. Some recommend synthetic-based oil because they assume it will be less likely to diesel. The fact is that synthetic and mineral-based oils have similar flashpoints so the only real advantage is in the recommended change intervals. 2000 hours for most mineral-based and 3500 hours for the synthetic. Does anybody seriously believe that their little Micky Mouse YH type pump will last 2000 hours?
 
@humdinger is correct. Hydraulic fluid is similar to brake fluid. Would you put brake fluid in your car engine instead of motor oil? I know I wouldn’t. I edited and partially re-wrote the Tuxing manual and the first thing I did was delete the hydraulic fluid and insert good synthetic compressor oil as first choice, or 30 or 40 weight synthetic non detergent motor oil as second choice.
 
I’d run it for 1/2 hour then change the oil. Then I’d go another hour and change it again. This gets rid of any wear products during manufacture and from the first break in runs. Then every five hours run time after that. Keep the compressor cooling water chilled if possible, and don’t run it over 65 degree C. Royal Purple Synfilm high pressure air compressor oil or any of the above that @humdinger recommends is a good choice.
Mike
 
I use Chemlube 751. It is made for dive compressors and is odorless. You know you can run a diesel off of used fryer oil, but it's not recommended. In two years of reading YH oil/failure threads I have yet to see one fail because they were using Chemlube. I have seen threads of failures because of the Purple oil, Hydraulic oil, 30 weight motor oil, but not a one from anyone using Dive compressor oil for what it's worth.
 
I wonder, so tell me what you think - is it really so much a matter of using one oil that's for whatever reason better than another, or could you just use this or that well thought-of oil, designed for the purpose, and just change it out quite often to avoid breakdowns?

I'm okay with "wasting" oil by changing it out "too" frequently.

This really sounds like a great experiment that would benefit the community and help others! Thank you for posting and suggesting it. Do you mind trying out the above suggestions on your compressor and reporting back? I'm using CE-750 on my LPA Yong Heng and if you can save me effort in knowing what's best it will really save me both time and money. Thanks!
 
I wonder, so tell me what you think - is it really so much a matter of using one oil that's for whatever reason better than another, or could you just use this or that well thought-of oil, designed for the purpose, and just change it out quite often to avoid breakdowns?

I'm okay with "wasting" oil by changing it out "too" frequently. This really sounds like a great experiment that would benefit the community and help others! Thank you for posting and suggesting it. Do you mind trying out the above suggestions on your compressor and reporting back? I'm using CE-750 on my LPA Yong Heng and if you can save me effort in knowing what's best it will really save me both time and money. Thanks!

I would be happy to do that. I am a caretaker who is with someone 24/7 so it is very hard for me to have continuity in my replies, as I always have to watch over someone. I got my Yong Heng days ago and have not even been able to unwrap it. But it was suggested elsewhere to run oil through it and in very short order change it to get rid of the detritus of machine shavings, etc., and then do it again. I'm not sure how much I will be able to report that helps, but I will report how much gunk I get out of the machine once I've changed the oil through it quickly a few times. I'd much rather spend on oil than repair a machine. Usually my stuff lasts virtually forever because I take such good care of it, so if you hear me say it's breaking down, it's either that the item was crap or I was way beyond out of my depth. My friends have said I drive like a old man for the last 30 years. I'm careful and simply can't afford to treat my stuff like carp.