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Oh D### stuck screw

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HogKiller

HogKiller

Member
Mar 11, 2021
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Campbell, Calif, United States
Ok, quick back story, popped the rail on my Maverick VP .25 to see if it was a 20 moa, wasn't, took pics, sent to FX. Put rail back on, I'll SWEAR I didn't over torque anything, I learned my lesson on that many decades ago. Decided today to pop of the 0 rail and put on the 20moa rail, screw one, loose, screw two, loose, screw 3 loose, screw 4...screw you. Ok went and got something for a smidge more torque, NOT a ball nose, not happening, no way and of course there goes the allen head. even tried the tighten a tad and loosen routing and nope I'm screwed. Of course it's the one that is under the rail so not easy to get to. Because I do have spare rails and the 20moa I was going to install, I could cut it apart. I'm open to suggestions, I really don't want to try to heat it and with the head messed up now it might be useless. I'm thinking the next thing is a LH drill and an easy out, or LH drill remove the head then hope there is enough sticking up to grab with vice grips and a smidge of heat. Or just leave it and let it gnaw on me forever. Suggestions welcome after you stop laughing.
 
Scotty beat me to it...🤣
I've used soldering iron many times in the past on model rc planes or rc helicopters to remove screws..
Sounds like it's galled or bottomed out... Once you get it removed it would be wise to run a tap back through it... A bit of anti seize when you reassemble is your friend... Steel screws and aluminum never did mix well together.
 
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If I’m interpreting your posting correctly it appears you stripped out the hex in the head. I don’t believe you broke the head off. You should be able to use a screw extractor. If the extractor is too small just keep grinding it down some until it gets a grip. Replacement screw extractors aren’t that expensive. As a last resort you could left hand drill into it but that’s better done in a milling machine than a hand drill.
I have removed hundreds of socket head cap screws with left hand drills when I was working.
 
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And moving forward, use nickle anti seize on all your fasteners, most especially on stainless fasteners threaded into aluminum.

Preventive measures, and ever since I’ve practiced this method it’s been a loooonnnggg time since I’ve had a stuck in place fastener.

Another practice I’ve made is once I identify which fasteners get removed the most to access regulator adjustments, hammer spring tweaks, etc, like stock screws, or the top plate on impacts, i use all Torx head on those fasteners for sure
 
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Push an Allen wrench into your bench grinder wheel hard and raise a nice burr on the end. Now tap that deep into the socket head. Worked for me many times. Usually on a screw someone else buggered. I’m just not very good at messing up screws.
Next would be bring it out with an impact driver. The type you strike with a hammer. They are extremely effective. Every good mechanic has one.
 
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Scotty1 said:
Soldering iron tip on the screw for a bit may help without overheating everything. Reverse drill bit will help if it gets that bad. I find there is usually a torx bit that may grab better that a hex key at that point.
Click to expand...
It's a Hex. I do have an easy-out, worse case I'll have to enlarge the hole to get it in but. meh, such is life.
 
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KWK said:
Push an Allen wrench into your bench grinder wheel hard and raise a nice burr on the end. Now tap that deep into the socket head. Worked for me many times. Usually on a screw someone else buggered. I’m just not very good at messing up screws.
Next would be bring it out with an impact driver. The type you strike with a hammer. They are extremely effective. Every good mechanic has one.
Click to expand...
Oh I have one, but it's industrial strength, not sure how I'd get a 2.5mm Allen in it.
 
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rcs9250 said:
If I’m interpreting your posting correctly it appears you stripped out the Hecks in the head. I don’t believe you broke the head off. You should be able to use a screw extractor. If the extractor is too small just keep grinding it down some until it gets a grip. Replacement screw extractors aren’t that expensive. As a last resort you could left hand drill into it but that’s better done in a milling machine than a hand drill.
I have removed hundreds of socket head cap screws with left hand drills when I was working.
Click to expand...
You would be correct, I haven't totally buggered the head but it's close, I might try some REALLY thin brass shim and tap in the wrench but I think I'll do what some other advised, put the other screws in, a soldering iron and some penetrating oil, not in that sequence, and offer a small prayer to the air gun goddess. I'm a touch short of a milling machine...rats, I'd do some serious harm to have one or have one available again.
 
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HogKiller said:
Oh I have one, but it's industrial strength, not sure how I'd get a 2.5mm Allen in it.
Click to expand...
Use adapters. I've used it on small screws before. It works. You have to be careful and know how to use it. These are some of my best methods.
This screw (top one) was mangled so bad it looked impossible. Plus it has a tapered seat for alignment. It was real tight (was in there since 1906) but I got it out with a slot bit adapted down and the impact driver. Then I repaired the head by carefully peening the metal back to shape. You wouldn't believe it. It looked horrible. I have repaired many screws like that. You can not get them. Proprietary thread. Otherwise I have to make them. And sometimes I do
P1010037 (2).jpg

Made all 3 of these screws. Including the trigger screw. And many more.
IMG_3696.JPG

More screws made. Child's play
IMG_3496.JPGIMG_3568.JPGIMG_3572.JPGIMG_3690.jpgIMG_3692.JPG
 
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Update, I followed Spysir's idea of the torx, Headshots on putting the other screws back in, and the penetrating oil. I put on the oil a few days back, broke out the extended torx, clamped the gun in my vice with plastic jaws and a 2# or so ballpeen. Found where the Torx fit nicely, and started tapping, got a good grip, then used a 4" or so Crescent wrench to apply a little torque on it as I tapped with the Ballpeen and.....it started to move. Insert huge sigh of relief here. Got it out checked my huge supply of 3mm socket headed cap screws and found the right length. Checked the 20 MOA rail and apparently FX hasn't learned to deburr holes, on waiting surfaces, so took a countersink, well technically a center drill, and deburred the holes, applied a little oil to the thread and put it all back together. Made my adjustment and finally got it zeroed. Windage was off about 1 MOA at 25 yards. Started punching holes in the paper.

I want to thank you all for your advice.
 
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Good to see you got it out!
Here's what I do for future reference or anyone else. First take a large pin punch and tap on the head of the screw to peen the Allen tight, tight enough you have to drive the wrench/ bit in. Then a small pin punch in the center and give it a couple of good hits. Tap a Allen wrench in the previously peened tight hole and remove screw. If Allen wrench slips re-peen tighter and try again.
 
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Revin said:
Good to see you got it out!
Here's what I do for future reference or anyone else. First take a large pin punch and tap on the head of the screw to peen the Allen tight, tight enough you have to drive the wrench/ bit in. Then a small pin punch in the center and give it a couple of good hits. Tap a Allen wrench in the previously peened tight hole and remove screw. If Allen wrench slips re-peen tighter and try again.
Click to expand...

Yet another good idea, the Torx got a hell of a bite, luckily.
 
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