Odoyle, Curler or curling iron?

[Odoyle]

ACE Lowes Home Depot Wal-Mart.

MOST 1/2 od to 3/4 od max diameter use different diameters per chamber separated by washers you making active baffles like pistons moving back and fourth when shot. First chamber just a hair smaller than your LDC ID wrapped with only one layer scotch brite type material. Middle chamber at least 2 wraps and last exit 3 wraps.

Compress if too weak or stretch out of too strong. Washers must fit and able to slide inside. Restrict washer holes glue felt pads soldering iron melt center holes a little larger than caliber. Round felt restrictor pad holes facing you in baffles and inside exit hole inside LDC facing you most critical must be close to pellet size to make it quietest so LDC threads must be perfect don't use certan popular brands their threads too wobbly tolerances real bad that's why you always gotta go plus one up in size or may surely clip. If threads were perfect can use exact same caliber LDC.

 

[Odoyle]

You can easily make your own springs using thinnest piano wire or steel fishing leader line.

Thinner wire best less restrictive air flow.

 

[Peep]

Odoyle,

Thanks for the detailed instructions, will try the mods today or tomorrow.

 

[Odoyle]

You can make your own springs with thin stainless steel fishing leader line.

 

[Peep]

As a former Ulua fisherman I have all gauges of solid SS wire. If cannot find a suitable spring at Ace, will try making my own.

 

[MrP]

I find that 3d printed baffles are not very durable when it comes to repeated blasts of high pressure air. 30-40 fpe is fine but when I start shootings at 65+ things shatter. then things clip and fly off at weird angles. So I fear the plastic for higher power. Any tips!?


I made some thicker 3d prints and covered the first baffle with epoxy and that at least holds up well. 


I have to leave a pretty good margin to avoid clipping though. 


I was VERY active in experimenting with the prints over the summer but got burned out on the constant trouble shooting and results that are no better than a cheap oil filter i got from China. That's what pissed me off - hours of tinkering and all kinds of designs that worked ok but in the end the cheap metal k baffle can turned out the be the way to go. Not as quiet but quiet enough and not always on the verge of failing

 

[Odoyle]

Needs to be stainless steel or aluminum for high power longevity plus 3d printed plastics will eventually crack then break with age. 

 

[MrP]

My 100 FPE air gun was shredding apart plastic curlers just with the air pressure.


A decent layer of epoxy seems to be enough if put on a baffle that's printed thicker to withstand a little extra force. It keeps the layers of the print from separating.



Do you know what I wonder about though? Flexible filament. There is this material called TPU that is rubbery. I wonder if some of the baffles were printed out of materials that allowed them to flex in some limited way if it would act like those spring baffles.

 

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

What about ABS? PLA can be kind of brittle, but I've shot mine a good bit at 65 FPE, and a couple baffles JUST failed on mine, after a good year and a half of extensive use

I only made mine with 1.5mm walls this time, I believe they were 1mm originally. Keep my fill density to 100, so theres no air gaps inside the model. I also keep my line density and line height pretty low so theres lots of passes and lots of adhesion 

Can always use carbon fiber, but it's supposed to be hell on the nozzles. Nozzles are cheap enough, but I recon the filament is not

 

[Odoyle]

Use metal hair curlers like 1/4" diamond pattern screen. Or 1/4" diamond pattern aluminum or steel screen. Or grandma's metal hair curlers.

 

[BackStop]

ACE Lowes Home Depot Wal-Mart.

MOST 1/2 od to 3/4 od max diameter use different diameters per chamber separated by washers you making active baffles like pistons moving back and fourth when shot. First chamber just a hair smaller than your LDC ID wrapped with only one layer scotch brite type material. Middle chamber at least 2 wraps and last exit 3 wraps.

Compress if too weak or stretch out of too strong. Washers must fit and able to slide inside. Restrict washer holes glue felt pads soldering iron melt center holes a little larger than caliber. Round felt restrictor pad holes facing you in baffles and inside exit hole inside LDC facing you most critical must be close to pellet size to make it quietest so LDC threads must be perfect don't use certan popular brands their threads too wobbly tolerances real bad that's why you always gotta go plus one up in size or may surely clip. If threads were perfect can use exact same caliber LDC.

Thank you Odoyle, but sometimes your instructions/descriptions leave a lot to be desired. I understand the concept. The Mrod and the Fortitude use "weak" springs to hold their baffles in place. I remember when I first got my Fortitude. I could clearly hear the baffles opening/closing when I fired a shot.

Still, I find it hard to translate some of what you posted above into something I can picture in my mind. Got any pictures of an actual usage of what you are trying to describe?

Thanks!



p.s.

I thought about using disks cut out of the pseudo-Scotch-Brite material, but found that wrapping the outer wall of the LDC tube with the same to be effective and better than using felt. I would have used disks of said material, but found that cutting it properly to OD and making the ID hole clean, even much larger than caliber, to be a real pain in order to keep extraneous fibers from getting in the way of the pellet and causing problems.

p.s.p.s.

I have also thought that i might be able to find some hair curlers like the really old fashioned type that are actually made with a weak spring. Haven't been to the Dollar stores in a while, but I will look for them when I get a chance. I remember that those older ones (my mother's) actually were based on a weak spring with a wrapping.