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Notos at 10 ftlbs enough

Circling back to my comments earlier about simply dialing back the hammer spring tension and running the gun at a state of partial valve lock for discreet close-range pest control. One of the first HPA conversions I did was a .22 cal set up for 30fpe (JSB 18.1gr at about 865fps). One Friday a friend at work said he was overrun with squirrels and asked if I wanted to come over and remove some...but that he has neighbors on 3 sides so can I keep it quiet?

Sure.

The longest shots would be only 25 - 30 yards so that evening after work I simply backed off the hammer spring tension until it was running a lighter JSB 13.4gr at about 720fps. So half power at 15fpe. The report was so weak that at first I thought the chronograph was acting up but as soon as smacked the spinners a couple of times, I thought to myself this is going to be perfect.

The next morning it went 6 for 6 without attracting any attention from the neighbors.

QB78 harvest.jpg
 
I do not own a notos currently but will through this out there as a thought to achieve a lower power tune in unison with the other options as well . lol

Restrict the transfer porting or lessen the volume of plenum space as well . You can ignore the suggestion if I am incorrect about any of these as I do not have access to one to look at in person . :coffee: I Hope these ideas help to reduce the power where you need it to be . ;)
I have a notos and it's getting a shorter barrel since I only want it for a pistol.. it's easy to make a insert to reduce the volume of the plenum, I'm planning on figuring out by trial and error what the ideal reduction in volume is for going down from the 11" barrel to 8" as I believe it will take less air.. if anyone wants a drop in spacer to reduce the plenum, let me know, it's easy and I have the machine tools. installation is very simple too you just degass it and then screw off the air tube complete.. so the aluminum ring at the action end is really the end cap and regulator combined.. so the whole assembly is easily unscrewed but hand and between the hollow male threaded portion that is the gun and what you will see in the back of the regulator is the pelenium.. so you would just slip the pelenium reducer inside the male threaded part that is on the action and screw the air tube back on.. plus to remove it you would just degass it and unscrew the air tube and take out the spacer
Mark
 
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the factory hammer spring is too heavy to go that low. I Believe @Dairyboy cut a few coils off his and was able to achieve around 11-12fpe. That’s my plan too. Or source a shorter spring. Either way, with stock adjustment, you’re not getting that low.
id recommend not cutting the hammer spring, just source a lighter one or shorter one from the hardware store.. most people don't realize that cutting the hammer spring takes the round connection to just a end of the spring coil so you end up having at least more pressure against one side of the hammer.. but it will also spin the hammer when released
mark
 
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The issues with both your suggestions is, by decreasing transfer port opening, you will achieve velocity, but will not lower air consumption, or report of the gun. By raising reg pressure too Hugh, you essentially have an unregulated gun that will start to show a bell curve in shots (not as drastic as an unregulated platform, but still changing poi) this in my opinion defeats the purpose of owning a regulated gun in the first place. It also puts undue stress on the valve pin and hammer components. Harmony is king.
id have to definitely disagree with your comment about restricting the transfer port will not use less air.. I have a american tactical liberty nova 22 and it has high/low port selector and I get way more shots per fill on low.. a slightly smaller report too but not a lot.. however probably around 50% more shots per fill.. it's a regulated gun and I'm assuming that regulator pressure is around 2000 PSI..+/-
 
I think airgunarcheryfun out of Canada sells one.
yes.. it's the same one as for the similar Artemis snowpeak.. I forgot the number, I think it is for the pp750.. I almost bought that gun but I wanted it for right hand pistol shooting and it has the lever on the right side and the notos is on the left side but pretty much identical..
mark
 
if anyone wants to shorten their notos for a pistol, I can and would be willing to shorten the barrel so the gun is 16" overall and it will have a threaded bushing in the front for 1/2x20 internal threads for a moderator or to screw on the factory moderator..
I'm happy and willing to make pelenium reducer for less power and possibly if mine turns out perfect as I am close to being done sourcing parts. if I can get more moderators made I could shorten the barrel to 7" and a 4" moderator all inside the shroud.. you would actually have a almost identical gun to the snowpeak Artemis 750.. but for those of you like me the pp750 has the cocking lever on the right side so it is inconvenient to cock shooting pistol right handed.. this is the major reason I went with the notos is left hand cocking lever so your right hand stays on the grip..
Mark
 
Ebay has a few sellers selling springs you can buy and cut to your own length.


Just remember that not all vendors share the same spring rates or order method of measure. This one uses wire dia x outer dia x length. Buy several, cut off what you think you need, then try it, shimm it or try again.

If I remember correctly the notos is 1.1 mm in wire size, 9mm diameter. And the length varies as my notos was 62mm long.


Edit: please note this is from memory, so please measure
Allen
 
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Ebay has a few sellers selling springs you can buy and cut to your own length.


Just remember that not all vendors share the same spring rates or order method of measure. This one uses wire dia x outer dia x length. Buy several, cut off what you think you need, then try it, shimm it or try again.

If I remember correctly the notos is 1.1 mm in wire size, 9mm diameter. And the length varies as my notos was 62mm long.


Edit: please note this is from memory, so please measure
Allen
It doesn't matter if you use the factory spring or a new one.. but I definitely don't recommend cutting the spring.. it's rolled round on both ends and when you cut it, you transfer all the tension to one side along with likely spinning the hammer on firing.. I don't think it will spin on cocking but it will actually cause a twisting movement because of the single side doing all the tension.. might work for you but I'd recommend going to the hardware store and getting what you need to fit.. if they don't have it, MC master carr should have what you need..
Mark