Noob's Guide to Marauder Customization and Airgun Addiction

Here are some things I learned in my first year of airgunning with Marauders:
  • YouTube can make you delusional. If you think you're going to shoot like BWalton, Ted's Holdover or Matt Dubber with the stock Marauder you just bought from PyramidAir, get a hold of yourself. You have a lot more time and money to spend.
  • Reading forums and DIY tinkering can leave you thinking airgunning is Voodoo. Actually, it's science (physics). Most people got Cs in physics. You probably have a lot to learn. I did.
  • Forums are incredibly helpful, and confusing, all at the same time. (This is a good one).
  • Forum members are generally awsome people, and some will even PM you their phone numbers to help you either achieve what you're after, or help you realize you are delusional.
  • There's power and there's accuracy. Frequently, they don't get along.
  • If you're into killing stuff get a .25 to start.
  • Just get a chronograph. Yes its another $100+, but you are blind without one.
I'll explain all of this, and run down the most effective mods I chose. But first some background.

My airgunning obsession started out with a buddy who renewed my interest in some powder burners I have. I got charged up about shooting again, but carving out time to get to the range became such a project, and ammo is so expensive, I soon started looking for alternatives.

That's when some trolling on YouTube taught me that the airguns I played with as a kid had grown up in a big way. I was persuaded that all I needed was a little patch of suburbia to safely shoot any time I wanted. "Cool, I'm in!", I thought.

Even so, I resisted the price tag on high end guns and carbon tanks. I made the beginner's mistake of buying a magnum break-barrel. I was immediately dissapointed that I couldn't hit bottle caps at 50 yards, or reliably knock starlings off utility poles at ridiculous ranges (see delusional above). Also it was too loud and recoiled so much screws would come loose with heavy use. These are common, normal disspointments I learned. I sold it at a loss and went PCP.

Again, resisting high price tags, I settled on a Gen 2 .22 synthetic Marauder. Quiet was a top priority, and the Marauder fit that bill. I splurged for a good Hill MK4 pump because carbon fiber bottles were so expensive (and who wants to deal with a dive shop, anyway?) With an affordable UTG 4X9X40 mil dot scope, rings, pellets, etc, I still managed to spend the better part of a grand $$$.

While the experienced reader knows where this is going, a noob doing research may be thinking "its not worth it". I'm here to tell you that if you're a land-limited surburbanite like me, and you like precision and power, and you truly enjoy shooting sports without all the hassle of driving to the range, it's completely worth it. But you still have a ways to go. You might even might want to consider getting it over with and throwing in at the high end to start with.

Here's why: By the time of this writing, I now own that original Marauder (modified), and for grins I got a P-Rod as well. The PRod can be carried broken down in a backpack which makes jaunts in the woods less complicated when leaving a parking area populated by dog walkers and stroller-pushers. The Prod got modified too.

I'll cover some of the fails I went through in a moment, but first here are the guns and mods as they stand now:

M-Rod Gen 2 Synthetic .22 with a Primary Arms 4X14X44 FFP R-Grid reticle scope: (photo)
  • Marmot Militia Hammer Forged Barrel
  • HUMA regulator set to 2100 psi
  • Hill Marauder Kit: (Custom hammer, spring, port, and valve. Recommended by users here in a previous FlexWagtail thread)
  • UTG bipod
The results of these modifications are that the Marauder is now a 100 yd gun, instead of a 50 yd. gun. I'm tuned to push JSB 18.1s at 910 fps with reliable 1/4" accuracy at 25 meters, photo. At 100 yds, 1.5" ( or better) accuracy over a long shot string is achievable as long as there's no more than a mild breeze. The forward-focal-plane scope also helps shooting long and its way cheaper than the Hawke Sidewinder all the serious dudes seem to have. Against the advise of some, I'm able to overfill the gun a bit thanks to the regulator and therefore use the extra air to achieve shot strings into the 50's. There's also more room for more power. Hill's spring only has 1/2 a turn of tension on it to get 910 fps. I'm currently at 34 foot pounds of flat-curve power compared to 28-30 max stock.

P-Rod with UTG 4X9X40 AO mil dot scope: (photo)
  • Marmot Militia Hammer Forged Barrel
  • Hill PRod valve kit (custom valve, spring, and port)
  • BStaley O-ring tune
  • TKO moderator
  • Alchemy Airwerks P-Rod AR/M4 Rear Stock Adapter and Mounting Kit
  • cheap Knock-off M4 stock
  • cheap CVLife bipod
The results of these mods are that this fun 30yd gun with a neighborhood-noticable crack sound in it's stock form, is now a nearly-silent 50yd gun that breaks down into a backpack and looks really tactical cool. I'm getting about 19 foot pounds of power compared to 13-14 ft/lbs max out of the box. I can reliably get 1/2" to 3/4" groups at 50 yards, even with an unregulated power curve. Because of the extra power, I'm only getting about 16 to 18 good shots on the curve instead of the 25 to 30 you can get stock. The extra power gives me more confidence in taking small game. I now occasionally come home from sessions on the deer stand with a squirrel instead of venison.

Endorsements: I can highly recommend products from Tim Hill at http://hillairgun.com/. The kits he sold me performed better than expected. I was able to install them without being a machinist and Hill has solved all the physics problems that I would pefer not to do.

In addition the Marmot Militia hammer forged barrels do up your game significantly. It takes Mr. Gaska a little time to get them out, but add me to the chorus of customers who say its worth it if you are into hitting what you aimed at. http://marmotmilitia.com/index.html
The Alchemy Airwerks stock adapter for the PRod is 3D printed plastic and much cheaper than the other option out there. If you're not going into combat in Afghanistan with your PRod, it works fine. 

Fails and lessons learned along the way:
  • No doubt, many of you have already noted that if I wanted all this performance I should have bought at .25 cal to start with. You would be correct. I was a noob.
  • Many of you also may have done some rough math and realized I could have bought an FX Impact with all the bells and whistles for what I've spent here. You would also be correct. Honestly however, I've really enjoyed this process and the learning it took to achieve results.
  • Based on YouTube advice early on, I became convinced that merely buying and installing a Free Flight Hammer Debouncer would have me shooting that stock MRod like Matt Dubber with an FX Royale in South Africa. I was wrong. Even had I sprung for a more expensive SGG, I would have wanted more.
  • In the quest for accuracy, I found out after the fact that the Marmot Militia barrel has a pretty tight choke, which slowed down pellets and knocked a couple of foot pounds off the gun's potential. (Ooops. Time to spend more money.) Thus, the Hill valve kit upgrades, which bought me the power I wanted.
  • I'm so broke now, I'm still hand pumping my guns more than a year after getting into this. LOL. I'll get around to a cabon fiber bottle and a Nitrogen fill station as soon as I save up another $1K.
  • So called "pellet fussiness" is real. This part of the game IS actual Voodoo. No one can explain it. For instance, after fiddling with a valve port, my stock Prod barrel went from shooting cheap 14.3 Crossman Premiers in nice little groups, to spraying them all over the page overnight. No amount of cleaning, tinkering, going back to the old port, etc fixed it. Whatever, it went on to shoot more expensive (naturally) JSB 18.1s like the proverbial "tack-driver" everybody talks about. I eventually upgraded to the Marmot Militia barrel anyway. The 14.3's still mysteriously shoot like crap.
  • Beware the quest for power. Going over 950 fps with just about any pellet causes it to uncontrollably spiral, tumble, make 90-degree turns, etc. If you want to humanely kill things and you want power, start with a higher caliber and a heavier pellet. Do not waste brain cells thinking you can make a .22 pellet gun shoot sort of like a .22 powder-burner by magically jacking up the FPS. Its a fools errand. Don't believe the BS printed on boxes in stores.
I look forward to comments on where I went wrong (or right). What more I could do, or should have done. It's clear from reading forums I have barely scratched the surface of this hobby and everyone has an opinion! But if I had run across a post like this one a year ago, it might have saved me some dough and brain cells. So, I thought I would post it.

PS: On the subject of killing things. If you watch enough YouTube, you can become convinced that any Schmuck with an underpowered 12-ft lb. gun can run around Merry 'Ol England (or the state of your choice) popping bunnies, squirrels and crows at exceptional ranges to his heart's delight. This is not to mention guys killing wild hogs with a .177 to the brain. Yes, they were able to do these thing. But in the real world, this is called "INHUMANE" because there were undoubtedly plenty of gruesome woundings and maimings you didn't see on camera.

I'm as thrilled by live targets as the next guy. But my experience so far has been that anything less than a clean head shot on small game mammals with appropriate power and correct mushrooming pellet (H&N Hunter Extreme in my case) is ethically off limits. Lets just say I learned this the hard way, and it was not fun or thrilling.

If this is why you're getting in the game, suck it up and buy a .25 right off the bat.

Also, I don't know about other states, but where I live there is a legal season for squirrels, crows, mourning doves, etc. With the exception of legitimate invasive species pests such as English House Sparrows, Starlings, feral pigeons, Norway rats, and the like, YouTube would have you beleive pellet pushers are out there killing regulated game like madmen year round. Please do us all a favor and don't kill stuff out of season if you live in a regulated state.

My personal ethic is that all non-pest kills should be eaten. That limits me pretty much to squirrels and cottontails anyway.

Happy Airgunning.
 
Thank you for posting that.
I have had my Gen I MRod for going on two years now and only added the SSG.
This year though I am looking to mod it and have noted your mods. Through various readings, I am looking at a TSS, the MDS hammer, port job, and right now, maybe a lighter poppet spring to compliment the lighter MDS hammer. 
I am going to keep the OEM barrel as I believe I got a "good" one. With the right pellet of course. I am considering polishing the barrel though after all the other mods. 
 
Very good info and thanks for sharing your experiences. Much of that resonates with me as I've followed a similar path, including ending up with a fully modified Marauder.

But I started with springers and still have a love for quality springers that has not been eclipsed by the purchase of a few PCPs.

My own view is that power (and large calibers) is often over-valued versus accuracy. A 12fpe gun shooting 8.4gr JSBs still retains 6.5-7fpe at 50 yards. That is plenty to humanely kill most any small game, if you can put the pellet on target.

R
 
Excellent write-up of your experience! I too have an Mrod, a .177 that's been modded by a PO and myself and IMO, there's no such thing as "fully modded". Seems like there is always more to be done and more $ to be spent. I recently got an FX Streamline .22 and like it very much. So much that I'm thinking of selling the Mrod and getting a higher end and lighter gun to replace it.
 
Nice post. I agree with most of what you said except pushing so hard for a .25 cal. Granted I shoot a .25 cal...it requires a lot of extra effort to stop the pellet in its path (backstop). If you're gonna shoot in your backyard more than anywhere else, I'd keep it at .177/.22 or plan on detuning your .25 cal to shoot at a more forgiving velocity like I do (can tune from 12fpe to 45 fpe currently). When I am shooting out at 100 yards+, I certainly am glad I have a .25 cal.

Unregulated with a diy SSG in a .25 Cal Marauder I get:

-32 shots from 3k->2k with a slightly higher ES (4%) than what would be deemed acceptable for 100. Good for 50-75 yards or 100 if adjusting for the low end of bell curve. (1 inch vertical stringing occurs at anything passed 70 yards.

-24 shots from 2.8K>2.15K with a 2.5% or better ES that is certainly acceptable for 100 yards. (1 inch stringing occurs at 90 yards)

-16 shots from 2.8k>2.3k with an ES under 1.5% that is certainly acceptable out to 100 yards + (1 inch stringing occurs at 110+ yards)


Can't really compete with regulated rifles shooting 40-60 shots with a 1-2% spread, but I can detune easily for less FPE, don't have to worry about the time in between follow up shots, and have 1 less part to fail / cause problems. All I am required to do as a shooter to get 'close' to a regulated gun's accuracy is adjust and know where my velocity is during my bell curve / shot string, which during a good 500-600 psi its on par with a regulated gun thats only 200 psi on each end of my curve I need to shoot slightly higher for. Is it hole on hole accuracy outside of my ideal bellcurve at 50+ yards? No. But even regulated rifles will have vertical stringing at some point, extreme spread hasn't been reduced in any rifle that I know of below .25% which would be required to shoot as precisely as all us air gunners intend! At best there are 1% ES rifles and that may keep vertical stringing to under 1" at 100, but it opens up to over 1" at 150.

Until we have a perfected valve and/or regulator providing an extreme spread of 2-3 FPS throughout its entire shot string, you will still see from 1/2" to 1" vertical stringing occurring at 100 yards on any air rifle no matter how finely tuned. The fact we still take shots out so far while being so susceptible to wind blows my mind much like the pellets blow through the wind. We take 100+ yard shots more for brag-ability than practicality. Even if its just so soothe our own ego. . I blame a lot the youtuber's who certainly don't show the ugly misses + wounded and escaped shots. 
 

I picked up my .25 off time this site, shot wonderful at first, then one day I shot a hosp, and it looked at me after, before flying away. Went out grabbed a chronograph off the shelf, set it up shot 1st string, nothing over 550... Something was wrong, so one month into it I had a decision to make, spend hrs of reading forums & watching YouTube trying to diagnose and repair myself, or contact someone that could fix this and get the gun into my hands faster.
Called Motorhead's tuning services, after reading through couple hundred forum posts he made & that he was 45 mins away. While there added WAR valve, SSG, opened ports, trigger job but didn't feel the need to regulate as I wanted as much fpe I could dial up and didn't want to have to open it back up to change power.
I can crank it up for 80fpe when necessary, but I keep it set at around 65fpe so when I add a regulator (which I have) I'm going to try and set it up for as many shots @ 60-65fpe I can get. After being tuned, amazed at how shoots at times.
Then came the decision to add the bullpup kit, which makes it unbelievable I really like the overall weight distribution it just feels serious.
Next for it will be a few more WAR goodies, and I want a new barrel so I can shoot slugs then to Travis at WAR to get fitted with custom cocking side lever, if I can stop shooting long enough.
Money pit, could of bought high end off the shelf, but where's the fun in that.

 
"NorthLand43"Thank you for posting that.
I have had my Gen I MRod for going on two years now and only added the SSG.
This year though I am looking to mod it and have noted your mods. Through various readings, I am looking at a TSS, the MDS hammer, port job, and right now, maybe a lighter poppet spring to compliment the lighter MDS hammer. 
I am going to keep the OEM barrel as I believe I got a "good" one. With the right pellet of course. I am considering polishing the barrel though after all the other mods.
Lost in all that copy may be the recommendation for the "kits" that Tim Hill sells. Rather than trial and error with all kinds of springs, port sizes and hammer weights, he's alread figured it out and assembled a kit with all the stuff including the right drill bit to expand your barrel port. I found the kit to be very effective at raising power and shot count. I ditched the debouncing device and there seems to be no problem with wasted air. The kit was expensive. You're paying for expertise, not the parts, which all fit in a small mailer. Anyway, for me it was worth it.
 
"EMrider"Very good info and thanks for sharing your experiences. Much of that resonates with me as I've followed a similar path, including ending up with a fully modified Marauder.

But I started with springers and still have a love for quality springers that has not been eclipsed by the purchase of a few PCPs.

My own view is that power (and large calibers) is often over-valued versus accuracy. A 12fpe gun shooting 8.4gr JSBs still retains 6.5-7fpe at 50 yards. That is plenty to humanely kill most any small game, if you can put the pellet on target.

R
What springer do you like? I've been thinking about trying one again.
 
"ackuric"Nice post. I agree with most of what you said except pushing so hard for a .25 cal. Granted I shoot a .25 cal...it requires a lot of extra effort to stop the pellet in its path (backstop). If you're gonna shoot in your backyard more than anywhere else, I'd keep it at .177/.22 or plan on detuning your .25 cal to shoot at a more forgiving velocity like I do (can tune from 12fpe to 45 fpe currently). When I am shooting out at 100 yards+, I certainly am glad I have a .25 cal.

Unregulated with a diy SSG in a .25 Cal Marauder I get:

-32 shots from 3k->2k with a slightly higher ES (4%) than what would be deemed acceptable for 100. Good for 50-75 yards or 100 if adjusting for the low end of bell curve. (1 inch vertical stringing occurs at anything passed 70 yards.

-24 shots from 2.8K>2.15K with a 2.5% or better ES that is certainly acceptable for 100 yards. (1 inch stringing occurs at 90 yards)

-16 shots from 2.8k>2.3k with an ES under 1.5% that is certainly acceptable out to 100 yards + (1 inch stringing occurs at 110+ yards)


Can't really compete with regulated rifles shooting 40-60 shots with a 1-2% spread, but I can detune easily for less FPE, don't have to worry about the time in between follow up shots, and have 1 less part to fail / cause problems. All I am required to do as a shooter to get 'close' to a regulated gun's accuracy is adjust and know where my velocity is during my bell curve / shot string, which during a good 500-600 psi its on par with a regulated gun thats only 200 psi on each end of my curve I need to shoot slightly higher for. Is it hole on hole accuracy outside of my ideal bellcurve at 50+ yards? No. But even regulated rifles will have vertical stringing at some point, extreme spread hasn't been reduced in any rifle that I know of below .25% which would be required to shoot as precisely as all us air gunners intend! At best there are 1% ES rifles and that may keep vertical stringing to under 1" at 100, but it opens up to over 1" at 150.

Until we have a perfected valve and/or regulator providing an extreme spread of 2-3 FPS throughout its entire shot string, you will still see from 1/2" to 1" vertical stringing occurring at 100 yards on any air rifle no matter how finely tuned. The fact we still take shots out so far while being so susceptible to wind blows my mind much like the pellets blow through the wind. We take 100+ yard shots more for brag-ability than practicality. Even if its just so soothe our own ego. . I blame a lot the youtuber's who certainly don't show the ugly misses + wounded and escaped shots.
I like these observations. Your thoughts on ego and 100 yards clearly apply to me. I like the idea of hitting stuff that far out and jawing with my rimfire pals about it. They don't beleive its possible with an air gun. The we go to busting bottles at the campsite a long ways out and I get to prove they are wrong and get a big laugh. So thats part of the attraction. A backyard gun that you can take out in the woods and stretch out some. However, the laugh was on me this weekend. After writing all this stuff about 1.5" groups at 100 in this post Saturday night, I was hard pressed to keep it to 5" - 6" Sunday. It was windy and cold, and I got my a$$ handed to me by my expensive little pop gun. LOL
 
"kkarmical"
I picked up my .25 off time this site, shot wonderful at first, then one day I shot a hosp, and it looked at me after, before flying away. Went out grabbed a chronograph off the shelf, set it up shot 1st string, nothing over 550... Something was wrong, so one month into it I had a decision to make, spend hrs of reading forums & watching YouTube trying to diagnose and repair myself, or contact someone that could fix this and get the gun into my hands faster.
Called Motorhead's tuning services, after reading through couple hundred forum posts he made & that he was 45 mins away. While there added WAR valve, SSG, opened ports, trigger job but didn't feel the need to regulate as I wanted as much fpe I could dial up and didn't want to have to open it back up to change power.
I can crank it up for 80fpe when necessary, but I keep it set at around 65fpe so when I add a regulator (which I have) I'm going to try and set it up for as many shots @ 60-65fpe I can get. After being tuned, amazed at how shoots at times.
Then came the decision to add the bullpup kit, which makes it unbelievable I really like the overall weight distribution it just feels serious.
Next for it will be a few more WAR goodies, and I want a new barrel so I can shoot slugs then to Travis at WAR to get fitted with custom cocking side lever, if I can stop shooting long enough.
Money pit, could of bought high end off the shelf, but where's the fun in that.


Correct. The fun has been in the tinkering. Perfection is only satisfying for a while. Then its just boring. An FX Impact I don't think would have been as rewarding as making my Marauder shoot better. On the other hand, if someone just handed me an Impact, you can bet I would take it! That's a really cool looking gun, and its obvious you dropped some dough on yours. How loud is it? And what do you think you have in it money-wise? 
 
"Mousefart"One of the most intelligent, well written, and coherent pieces I've read on any topic among the forums that I follow in several disciplines. If you're broke and having to save for an air pump, then you're woefully underemployed! If I owned my own business I'd hire you immediately and give you a raise. Thanks for the read.
Thats a real nice compliment. I appreciate it. A little bit of a vanity post in terms of going on too long and covering too much stuff. But still, I hope it might help other noobs who might stumble across it while endlessly researching what gun to get and how much to pay.
 
Sadly though, people that think this is a cheap hobby, will be sorely disappointed. I started with the Marauder Gen 2, pump, scope and a few other items. Immediately upgraded to a carbon fiber tank (pumping really took the joy out of it), bought a couple more guns, now saving money for something in the quality range of an Impact or something similar.

And just think, if I'd just been happy with the 10/22 I've had for 40 years, I could have purchased around 10,000 rounds of .22 even at today's inflated prices, paid range fees, and the rest.

This isn't a cheap hobby by any means.
 
This is a great post with real admissions to success and failure. I really liked the read. All of us here share these experiences, made the same assumptions, made the same mistakes. Sometimes looking at yourself in the mirror and reflecting on what you are trying to achieve is the best thing a person can do to achieve a goal. Thank you for this article.
A long time ago in another life an old guy told me that everything I was attempting to do had been attempted before. He said you will have failures. Learn from those failures and mistakes but never give up because from those failures you gain experience and knowledge. Success is within reach but seldom does that success quench your thirst to accomplish more. I did not understand a lot of what he was saying back then but he was spot on because he too went down those same paths. He was a teacher, an instructor with great skills and natural abilities.
So get into the sport, enjoy your successes, share your experiences with the rest of us.
One last thing that I have passed on to many of what became my students or proteges. Use the KISS method when you can. Step back from what you are doing that seems to be a wall impeding your progress. Then remind yourself to Keep It Simple Stupid.
 
+1 on not being a cheap hobby! Even when you do a lot of the things youself.

-Quality air supply (scuba tank or equiv.) 150-200$ On the low end, 400-500$ on the high end. 2000$ If you buy your own compressor!
-Quality Scope 100-500$ (Plenty of cheaper glass that I'd consider quality, if it holds zero and has decent glass)
-Quality Air gun 300$-2000$
-Chronograph (80-100$)
-Range Finder (80-150$)
-Quality Pellets (80-150$) every few months-year depending on how often you plink/shoot

On the Top end you could easily spend $5k! All for an air rifle!
Even on the bottom end, you would be spending ideally 700-800$ to get started in the hobby. For me it was around 800$ and I did a lot of things myself, and went on the very low/cheap end for everything except pellets since that price difference in marginal and jsb's reign supreme.
 
My experiences were similar too in the beginning, except that to get the extra performance I bought a more expensive air gun instead of upgrading my old ones. 

My personal belief is that, for most people, it makes more financial sense to buy a Cricket, Mutant or Wildcat etc instead of putting that money into a Marauder or AT44 if you ever plan to sell it. That doesn't mean that it isn't possible to squeeze good performance out of those entry level guns with some well chosen aftermarket mods. It just costs the same money by the time you made them comparable (unless you can do a chunk of the work yourself). 

I would also add that, if you shop smartly, you can often get a used 4500 psi tank and fill adapter for similar money to buying a handpump. 

If I was doing it all again with the knowledge I have now, I would have skipped all the cheap springers and co2 guns. I would have skipped the entry level PCP guns and gone directly to buying a Cricket 25 and Mutant 22. I would have skipped the handpump and bought used scba tanks too.

On scopes: As someone who also has a Primary Arms FFP scope and some more expensive scopes, I would say that the PA scopes cover all of what 98% of people would use an air gun for. They are more than clear enough to see at any airgun appropriate distances. The only thing they don't do well at is if you plan to use the turrets for precision corrections at competition level. 

BTW, I agree on using a 25 cal for humane hunting. I use both a 25 and a 22. The difference in stopping power is noticeable and significant. Not everyone agrees with that but it has been my experience . Plenty of people say they make perfect headshots every time at 50 or 75 yards with their 177 or 22. I just have a hard time believing it. My 22 caps get the job done but not nearly as fast or clean. 
 
"zebra"My experiences were similar too in the beginning, except that to get the extra performance I bought a more expensive air gun instead of upgrading my old ones. 

My personal belief is that, for most people, it makes more financial sense to buy a Cricket, Mutant or Wildcat etc instead of putting that money into a Marauder or AT44 if you ever plan to sell it. That doesn't mean that it isn't possible to squeeze good performance out of those entry level guns with some well chosen aftermarket mods. It just costs the same money by the time you made them comparable (unless you can do a chunk of the work yourself). 

I would also add that, if you shop smartly, you can often get a used 4500 psi tank and fill adapter for similar money to buying a handpump. 

If I was doing it all again with the knowledge I have now, I would have skipped all the cheap springers and co2 guns. I would have skipped the entry level PCP guns and gone directly to buying a Cricket 25 and Mutant 22. I would have skipped the handpump and bought used scba tanks too.

On scopes: As someone who also has a Primary Arms FFP scope and some more expensive scopes, I would say that the PA scopes cover all of what 98% of people would use an air gun for. They are more than clear enough to see at any airgun appropriate distances. The only thing they don't do well at is if you plan to use the turrets for precision corrections at competition level. 

BTW, I agree on using a 25 cal for humane hunting. I use both a 25 and a 22. The difference in stopping power is noticeable and significant. Not everyone agrees with that but it has been my experience . Plenty of people say they make perfect headshots every time at 50 or 75 yards with their 177 or 22. I just have a hard time believing it. My 22 caps get the job done but not nearly as fast or clean.
I hope other Noobs get this far down in the thread because what you say is right-on in my opinion. Still shopping for that tank BTW, LOL. I dont have time to fool with dive/paintball shops and don't want to buy a $1k+ compressor. So now I'm looking into what all is involved in renting a 6kpsi nitrogen tank to use as a fill station for a backpack-sized carbon fiber bottle, or to go directly into guns while shooting at home. AirHog seems to have the adapter stuff I need. But its the same 'ol $$$$ issue! Any insight would be helpful