Newby Question.

In the UK we have the HW99s that everywhere else is known as the HW50s. I am a huge Fan of the 50 and have had very many probably in the teens over the years. I have been keeping an eye out but have yet to see any mention of the Galling that scraping grinding noise that plagues so many of these sweet little guns. The fix in the UK used to be seized on by the guns critics as not fit for purpose and those of us who knew better just got on with it and serviced the gun and did the FIX at the same time and just enjoyed it. Gradually over the years the critics seem to have seen sense and they seem to be in the minority now. So I am wondering what do you guys do about the Galling when it arrives?? Here are my two. The scoped 99 is the most accurate I have had and has been with me for many years. The other not for very long. I am about to scope this Gun. Great Guns. :)
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The 'Galling' seems to be a result of the barrel cocking lever (or hinge point) contacting the underside of the receiver during the cocking stroke. While installing a Vortek tuning kit into my HW50S I did not see any sign of contact between the aforementioned surfaces, but I still left a decent coating of moly grease in the general area. Some members have posted that a small grinding job performed on the part of the hinge that is most likely to make contact, reducing the overall size of the hinge, will eliminate the possibility of contact. I did notice that there is a small polymer insert on the underside of the cocking lever where any contact with the receiver would occur in my HW50S; similar insert is not present in my HW30S.

Looking at your beautiful HW99S (bottom photo) I notice that it has a gold trigger & trigger guard, very interesting. The stock is also very appealing, please tell me more about this gorgeous rifle! You previously mentioned it was a 'Bog' or something like that, I'm not familiar with that description unfortunately. TIA :)
 
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The 'Galling' seems to be a result of the barrel cocking lever (or hinge point) contacting the underside of the receiver during the cocking stroke. While installing a Vortek tuning kit into my HW50S I did not see any sign of contact between the aforementioned surfaces, but I still left a decent coating of moly grease in the general area. Some members have posted that a small grinding job performed on the part of the hinge that is most likely to make contact, reducing the overall size of the hinge, will eliminate the possibility of contact. I did notice that there is a small polymer insert on the underside of the cocking lever where any contact with the receiver would occur in my HW50S; similar insert is not present in my HW30S.

Looking at your beautiful HW99S (bottom photo) I notice that it has a gold trigger & trigger guard, very interesting. The stock is also very appealing, please tell me more about this gorgeous rifle! You previously mentioned it was a 'Bog' or something like that, I'm not familiar with that description unfortunately. TIA :)
Actually the galling that occurs on the Delrin insert model that has been around for years occurs on the inside of the cylinder. The grinding on the outside Is only present on the pre delrin strip model (polymer insert). As to the model with the refinished standard stock. That has had the Piston glided and has been very well tuned to give me 9.5ftlbs (not by me:)) so that I could use it with a diopter which you can see on the gun. Low recoil and I only shoot rested. (82 years) and weak and feeble. It is quite decent at this discipline but not as good as I thought it might be so it is going to wear a scope. I put the performance down to the length of the sight base, circle front and rear diopter. I am comparing it with my HW77 long which is far more capable. This does not detract in anyway as I think that the HW50/99 is the equal of any gun in the Weihrauch line up scoped. There is a Stock Wizard on the Airgunsforum called Nath. He refinished the Stock for me. Thats about it. edit I forgot. The gold trigger guard and trigger are off Ebay.
 
When new the gun performs perfectly. After any number of tins of pellets the gun is getting smoother and better. Suddenly the cocking seems a bit different. Like some friction going on. The first stage of the 2-piece linkage is now rubbing up against the slot in the receiver. After awhile, if left alone, there will be enough metal removed from the slot that the pivot joint in the lever will have enough bind on it that it locks up an doesn’t function properly. If still left alone, even the galling starts. Some people say to loosen up the pivot joint. Why? It functioned perfectly for many tins of pellets the way it is when new. So what changed? The spring. The spring finally took a set and is binding against the piston wall. The piston is being turned and putting pressure on the lever. Enough to push it up against the slot in the receiver. This started the rubbing that led to the binding that led to the galling. When I have installed a spring kit with a sleeve the problem is gone. The spring can’t get up against the piston wall. Plus the preload is far less than the factory spring so when the the gun is at rest the spring has very little load and even if a bit did actually get to the piston wall, it’s not enough pressure to move the piston. That has been my experience. Some will probably disagree. You will have to decide what makes sense.
The Delrin strip does prevent the galling (last stage) but doesn’t address the problem.
 
When new the gun performs perfectly. After any number of tins of pellets the gun is getting smoother and better. Suddenly the cocking seems a bit different. Like some friction going on. The first stage of the 2-piece linkage is now rubbing up against the slot in the receiver. After awhile, if left alone, there will be enough metal removed from the slot that the pivot joint in the lever will have enough bind on it that it locks up an doesn’t function properly. If still left alone, even the galling starts. Some people say to loosen up the pivot joint. Why? It functioned perfectly for many tins of pellets the way it is when new. So what changed? The spring. The spring finally took a set and is binding against the piston wall. The piston is being turned and putting pressure on the lever. Enough to push it up against the slot in the receiver. This started the rubbing that led to the binding that led to the galling. When I have installed a spring kit with a sleeve the problem is gone. The spring can’t get up against the piston wall. Plus the preload is far less than the factory spring so when the the gun is at rest the spring has very little load and even if a bit did actually get to the piston wall, it’s not enough pressure to move the piston. That has been my experience. Some will probably disagree. You will have to decide what makes sense.
The Delrin strip does prevent the galling (last stage) but doesn’t address the problem.
Well The most important thing that I and many more in the UK do first is to remove the stiff spring from behind the Delrin Strip and severely beat it up then throw it away as this is the main culprit. This spring forces the very poorly finished foot of the cocking lever into hard contact with the inside of the cocking slot causing two tramline marks one either side of the inside of the cocking slot. If you look, this surface of the foot has often got little edges and points that dig in as the gun is cocked and should be smoothed. Getting rid of the delrin spring loosens the whole thing up and takes pressure of any contact. That and a liberal amount of Moli inside the cylinder makes thing much easier. The moli can only be added after the piston is inserted or it will get in front of the piston. The knuckle in the cocking strut should be freed if stiff. Also smooth any edges from the sides of the cocking slot. I may have forgotten something but those are the main points. I have never tried replacing the delrin spring with something weaker. Some do but I have never seen the need. So many of my 50's have galled that when I get a new one i do the fix anyway. Sometimes before I have even cocked the gun. Give everything a bit of a proper going over and at this point it is a good idea to fit a Kit and adjust the power.
 
Oh yeah here it is.
 
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