New TX200 on it's way. Need advice

Sounds like you're coming around on the idea of just tearing it down and having some fun with it haha. I use all of that stuff with the exception of the MP-5 oil. I just looked it up and aside from being a bit pricey, sounds like good stuff.

My only recommendation from here is to just watch a ton of videos over the next few days. The biggest mistake everyone seems to make their first time through is using entirely to much moly. It does not take much at all!

Welcome to the club man. You chose a fantastic springer to get started with!
 
Got it. Wasn't sure if I could cock it and leave it under spring tension while running patches through it. And yes it is a Standard TX200 in Walnut. So I wasn't sure if I would need a straw in the end of the muzzle. I feel like I am going back to my days of field stripping an M4. Thought those days were behind me..lol. I appreciate the help.



The anti bear trap will hold it open, there is a series of clicks before it actually cocks. Don't stick your fingers in there to retreive patches anyway, use tweezers or needlenose pliers. Always have a hand on the cocking lever while loading pellets. I had a chinese underlever sear break and slam on my thumb when I was a teenager. The thumbnail grew back, but I would rather not do that again. There is no way to decock it when you are done cleaning. You will have to load a pellet and fire it, can be a problem for apartment dwellers.
 
My advice would be to shoot it first, and check for accuracy, firing problems, safety function, etc. . . That way, if you have difficulties after the tear-down you'll know where they likely started. Maybe you plan to do this anyway, so pardon me if this is a no-s-Sherlock comment. 

I've never worked on a TX, but a ProSport is a delight to work on. Good luck.
 
Great choice on your new gun!!! I have been shooting and servicing the TX since it came to the US. By all means clean the barrel, but forget polishing for now, way to mant airguns have been ruined by polishing the barrel before it is needed. In all my years of TX service extremely few have ever needed polishing. Before getting carried away with kits and such, try it out, make sure everything works well, no sense trying to fix something that is not broke!! Have never had to polish any of my own TX barrels, just a simple tune and lube. My current MK3 is totally factory except for cleaning, lubing, and shimming the spring, it will shoot with the best...super smooth, extremely accurate, will put it up against any kit out there, have posted my groups at 35 and 50 yds, all with factory compinents!! Your probably going to want a pellet lube, I have used Beeswax furniture spray for many years, the beeswax us all natural, wont harm any seals, great on metal and your wood stock!!! doesnt build up, self cleaning and nakes barrel cleaning a breeze!! Probably see your accuracy improve andvit keeps your pellets from corroding. Absolutely nothing bad about it, wont cause any damage to anything even getting it in your mouth!!! If I can be of further help, feel free to pm me with any questions you might have. Good shootin !!
 
Good deal. Bought the Locktite 242 blue. I ordered a ton of stuff that will be here on Wednesday. All the stuff on the videos. Air Venturi mp-5 metalophilic oil, Air Venturi Tune In A Lube lubricant, Air Venturi Moly paste, Casey tru oil gun stock finish, patch kit, ballistol, pellet patches. Hope it's the right stuff.

Follow instructions on blue loctite!! Threads must be cleaned first, both external and internal threads. Use loctite sparingly, then wipe off any excess, actually the less the better if threads are clean. Make sure the screws are not sloppy, I have found factory screws can be of poor quality on ocassion, so dont be afraid to upgrade to a better quality screw. Better threads will hold much better!! Just good and snug then let loctite set for 24 hrs. I have a house full of Amish made furniture, they only recomend beeswax polish on there wood, I use it on my stock and it looks excellent!!! It is also water/ moisture proof so I use it in the cutout for the action, you can see water beading and running off in the rain..also makes a great pelket lube!!
 
Get you some Royal London oil and put on the walnut. I had one, that stuff turned out awesome.

JPW

WI'll this change the color and shine?

I'm also on the RLO bandwagon. I love the stuff and have used it on multiple stocks. If you only put 3 coats on, it will just barely achieve a slight satin sheen. It doesn't really change the color, it just adds to the depth. I would also recommend doing the stock as soon as you confirm that the rifle is accurate and without any defects. You want to protect the stock before it get's stained.

RLO Comparison.1651636163.jpg


Enjoy your new rig!
 
Got it. Wasn't sure if I could cock it and leave it under spring tension while running patches through it. And yes it is a Standard TX200 in Walnut. So I wasn't sure if I would need a straw in the end of the muzzle. I feel like I am going back to my days of field stripping an M4. Thought those days were behind me..lol. I appreciate the help.



The anti bear trap will hold it open, there is a series of clicks before it actually cocks. Don't stick your fingers in there to retreive patches anyway, use tweezers or needlenose pliers. Always have a hand on the cocking lever while loading pellets. I had a chinese underlever sear break and slam on my thumb when I was a teenager. The thumbnail grew back, but I would rather not do that again. There is no way to decock it when you are done cleaning. You will have to load a pellet and fire it, can be a problem for apartment dwellers.

Yes you can decock the TX...pull back on the cocking lever then release the trigger, the lever will only go a short distance then the bear trap will catch. Hold on tight to the cocking lever and release the bear trap, slowly allow the cocking lever to close. Sounds tricky but really isnt once you do it, just keep a good grip on the cocking lever while you release the trigger then the bear trap.