New to AirGunning

Hey all! My name is JP, I'm a father of 3. I just bought my father and myself air rifles and can't wait to share this hobby with him.

For him:
Benjamin Trail NP2 .177

For me:
Benjamin Trail NP2 SBD .22

any advice or feedback on these? Modifications?

Forgive me for being a noobie, and thank you for sharing your expertise!
 
Welcome to the addiction known as Air Rifles. The two you mentioned, I'm personally unfamiliar with but have done enough reading to realize the trigger is always a possible weak link. Now not sure on the NP2 variation but the regular NP models have been known to have horrible triggers. Most of it is due to a long travel. Some are better and some are worse. I do own a Crosman Stealth Shot and that one is a regular NP model. Trigger was long and heavy, with creep.

There was also an issue with the seal in mine, and it was damaged at the factory on installation. There are many sharp edges in these guns and that can ruin a seal and also cause scraping, grinding, and general felt roughness on cocking the barrel. In the one I tore down and put back together there was also noticeable scoring marks on the piston.
The best thing you can do at this point would be to shoot it maybe a half tin of pellets (El Cheapo is fine) and get a feel for the rifle itself. Would not look for too much consistency out of it for at least 100+ shots. Who knows, you may have good ones that don't need a thing!

Some common things to keep an eye on during shooting are:
1) Check stock screws up front and rear at trigger guard for tightness (check every 50 rds). A lot of shooters take the screws out, degrease them, and apply blue loctite then reinstall the screws.

2) If you start getting vertical strings check your barrel pivot screw, and tighten it a little. Do not overtighten as that will wear the nylon washers out quicker. IF the vertical stringing continues or groups do not tighten up you may have a piston seal issue.

3) When mounting a scope it's a good idea to blue loctite those screws also. Preferably you want a one piece base/mount. Air Rifles are notorious for killing scopes. The combo packages usually contain good break in scopes but they are toast after that. Good scope brands are Hawke and UTG, heard good things about Mantis scopes too. BE sure you get a scope later on that either has Adjustable Objective (Parallax) or one that has a low Parallax from factory(30 yds or less). Always buy scopes that are rated for air guns. Regular run of the mill scopes are usually parallax adjusted at 100yds which is too much for an air rifle.

4) Prepare to spend a LOT of coin on pellets. Air Rifles are fickle beasts and can be picky eaters. Good first bets are the Crosman Hollow Points, RWS superdomes, H&N Field Target Trophy, and JSB pellets. I've personally had decent luck with the H&N's. There are many pellet types and brands out there and weights. Invest in "Sampler Packs".

5) Do not ever use any type of solvent in the barrel or anywhere near the power plant. Clean your barrel with either an Otis-like device or do like me.. Use bamboo skewers to push through a cleaning pellet with a drop of Goo Gone or 91% rubbing alcohol. Push a couple extra dry cleaning pellets through. On your 22 it will be much easier than .177 because you can use a real cleaning rod GRANTED you are very careful especially around the crown. Use pure silicone oil on your breech seal. A little drop is all that it takes smeared on it every now and then. It's ok to use some type of oil on the outside of the gun (barrel, receiver, etc.) just make sure it does not run down into the piston area.

6) IF you do not like the trigger and the adjustments do not get you where you want to be you can get a CDT trigger or do the RC bearing trick, although I am not familiar with the differences between the NP and NP2 triggers.

Most important: Take your time and get to know the air rifle. Learn to be patient with it and yourself. Trigger control and hold type is everything in an air rifle.

Best of Luck and hope this helps some.
 
My advice is to watch a lot of u-tube videos and learn the artillery hold. Staying down on the scope and follow through on your shot is everything for accuracy.
Watch Joe Rhea clean barrel with boresnake on his channel "Air Gun Classics". He has a lot of good advice on scopes and most anything airgun.
The myairgunreviews u-tube channel with Kenny Normandy is great. He has a lot of videos on the trigger on the Benjamin guns. I used his bearing mod on my Benjamin, made a great improvement on the trigger. 
The best pellets in mine are the jsb and H&N's. Pyramyd Air is really good for pellets and the people there will answer questions for you.There's a lot to learn and fun to have with your dad!!!
 
I own several Crosman/Benjamin NP rifles as well as a Benjamin Summit NP2. I've worked on the triggers for each type and here's what I've found:
  1. The NP trigger units typically are very difficult to master in the raw state - long, long creep and no really clear break point. There are two methods to improve the trigger performance on the NP rifles; using both methods has yielded the best results for me. First is the "bearing fix" in which a 5x8x2 mm RC-type bearing is installed in place of the trigger torsion spring (the infamous "lawyer spring") that is at the heart of the interminable trigger creep. Several very good YouTube videos for that fix. Second, replace the trigger adjustment screw, located just behind the trigger and having a length of 5 mm, with a 10 mm screw of the same barrel dimension. I found these replacement screws at a local hardware supply shop. The longer adjustment screw in turn will take much of the creep out of the sear within the trigger housing; be VERY CAREFUL and go slow (use 1/2 to 1/4 turns on the screw!) as you adjust the new screw. Tighten it down too much and you risk having a gun that either will not cock at all or, worse, cocks but will discharge at the slightest bump. Using both of these modifications has given me a crisp 1-stage trigger on both my .177 and .22 NP rifles without sacrificing a solid, operable safety.
  2. The NP2 trigger is not the same as the NP trigger assembly. The NP2s come with a "Clean Break Trigger" (aka "CBT") that is meant to be a two-stage trigger and is not nearly so easy to muck with. To really work it over I found I had to do the full action disassembly, taking the action out of the stock and using a spring compressor to take out the gas strut and expose as much of the internal trigger assembly as possible. I polished every sear surface I could (there are a couple of sears in sequence with the trigger shoe itself) and then used moly grease on those surfaces to act as a smoothing agent. Once the gun was put back together I found the trigger to be less "gritty" in feel but still heavy. That's when I began working with the trigger adjustment screw. That screw is not the same as is found on the NP assemblies and I found it does not suffer from the "too short to do any stinkin' good" syndrome that the NP adjustment screws exhibit. If you tighten it down too much you will end up with a gun that doesn't cock well at all. Loosen it too much and you get a long, heavy first stage pull with no clear second stage wall - just another version of the long, creepy trigger that suddenly pops on you at unexpected times. I now have that adjustment screw set so that the first stage is fairly light, there is a very clear second stage wall (point at which you feel the trigger come to the threshold of firing without crossing it), and a firm-but-crisp break. I honestly prefer that 2-stage trigger to my modified NP triggers.
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    Those are my experiences: each rifle type can show significant improvement in accuracy and handling if you aren't shy about pulling out some hand tools and getting a little greasy.
 
Charliedatuna is still the best of all worlds as far as the NP2 trigger is concerned... I just wanted to see how far I could take the trigger on my Summit on my own. I am no machinist or even skilled hobbyist where tools are concerned. The work I describe above seemed like a mountain before I actually tackled it, but mostly ended up taking just patience and careful attention to the details provided in the YouTube tutorials I found. One thing of note: my "spring compressor" is nothing more than a 36" furniture clamp rated to 3500 lbs. Something i picked up at Lowes for less than $30. It works great and proved far easier to use than I'd imagined. So don't become discouraged - dive right in!