Just got a Texan .257 any tips on ammo choice ? Cleaning , Holding for best long distance accuracy ?
Jay
Jay
- The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.
New Texan .257 LSS Tips for long distance, ammo, holding ect ?
- Thread starter Shooting Targets
- Start date
First, congrats on your new gun. Start with cleaning the bbl very good then consider fire lapping the barrel. It would be nice to slug the bbl and get the proper sizing die. Next consider some type of adjustable rings that will give a least 20 moa elevation. Next up would be a quality regulator . Add a chrony, good supply of air and a selection of slugs. 65g to 100g and test. Trigger time is your friend.
Upvote 0
@Jaydog, Having problems posting link. Go to Youtube and watch Mr Hollowpoint.m video on tuning the Texan. 
Upvote 0
I have a .257 Armada with a 1:14 TJ barrel liner. I've tried a few slugs and so far nothing better than this:
http://arsenalmolds.com/bullet-molds/257-Bullet-boattail
Lubed and sized to my lead-in/barrel.
Shoots good from 920fps to 1030fps. Currently shooting at 990fps and they hold together well out to at least 300m.
Casting your own gives more control, or you can buy them:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293611634254
http://arsenalmolds.com/bullet-molds/257-Bullet-boattail
Lubed and sized to my lead-in/barrel.
Shoots good from 920fps to 1030fps. Currently shooting at 990fps and they hold together well out to at least 300m.
Casting your own gives more control, or you can buy them:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293611634254
Upvote 0
The real secret to holding over with anything that fires a projectile is time and practice. The trajectory with air guns is a far flatter version of that of say an arrow. I'm still just learning air guns but when I used to bow hunt, I spent three days a week on a range that had yard markers on it.
I started with multi-pin sights, dialed them in for various yardages, then moved to a single pin and learned my hold over and hold under after many hours of also burnin in yardage estimates by eye. Of course this was all 60yds and closer so it was just a handful of yardages to really learn by eye. After a few months of practice I could keep my arrows inside about a 4" circle pretty handily.
It's the same process with air guns really but now I have magnified optics with graduated reticles with various markings to reference and we can use range finders for longer distances (I have yard markers memorized for my short 50yd range now). Use the range finder and a scope that has a reticle with MOA or milrad markers and make a ranging card for whatever load you are firing as a reference for your holdovers.
Of course it can be hard to find the time to put in, but it's kind of amazing how fast you can improve from zero to quite proficient in a few months.
Now the last bit is, much like billiards or golf, you can advance well beyond the average dabbler in just a few months of well disciplined practice, but that last tiny bit of improvement from there can take the rest of your life
.
I started with multi-pin sights, dialed them in for various yardages, then moved to a single pin and learned my hold over and hold under after many hours of also burnin in yardage estimates by eye. Of course this was all 60yds and closer so it was just a handful of yardages to really learn by eye. After a few months of practice I could keep my arrows inside about a 4" circle pretty handily.
It's the same process with air guns really but now I have magnified optics with graduated reticles with various markings to reference and we can use range finders for longer distances (I have yard markers memorized for my short 50yd range now). Use the range finder and a scope that has a reticle with MOA or milrad markers and make a ranging card for whatever load you are firing as a reference for your holdovers.
Of course it can be hard to find the time to put in, but it's kind of amazing how fast you can improve from zero to quite proficient in a few months.
Now the last bit is, much like billiards or golf, you can advance well beyond the average dabbler in just a few months of well disciplined practice, but that last tiny bit of improvement from there can take the rest of your life
.Upvote 0
Hello do you think that bullet and mode works well in the Texan .257 ? Kind of looks similar to the seneca flat point .257 that everybody hates lol ?
Also do you pour your own ? If so is it difficult to do ? I use to pour lead fishing lures like spinner baits with a lead tin pot from bass pro shops into a mold ? Is there alot more secrets pour molds of lead bullets like special tin mixtures ect ?
Jay
Upvote 0
Texans have barrels that are not the smoothest. I would clean it until there's no lead residue, then run some patches with J-B Bore Bright. Re-clean until a patch comes through clean as a whistle. I then lube my barrel with using 10 weight RC Silicone Shock Oil. I use the same lube for my cast bullets.
As far as I'm concerned a 257420 bullet / bullet mold is the place to start with a .257. On your Texan you'll end up with the best accuracy at very low power. That should be about 950-1020 fps with a 72 grain bullet. Beyond that you will scatter your groups.
My favorite bullet molds in order of accuracy and preference:
Arsenal 257420 or 257420 with Boat Tail
Noe 258-75-FN-BQ6 4 Cavity RG4 BT - With hollow point I got the best 100 yard groups with this bullet.
Arsenal 257388 85 Grain Spitzer Bullet - is promising but so far I have not found it's sweet spot.
Heavier bullets are just going to disappoint. the 257420 or Noe 258-75-FN-BQ6 will go in one side of a big turkey and out the other. You can hear the impact.
Size your bullets accordingly to the bore.
I cast with pure lead when possible. If I have trouble getting the mold to fill out I will add a button of tin to the pot.
In conclusion:
1. clean barrel - keep it clean.
2. lube your bullets.
3. Size your bullets
4. Optional is to powder coat, size and then lube bullets. I do this religiously.
As far as I'm concerned a 257420 bullet / bullet mold is the place to start with a .257. On your Texan you'll end up with the best accuracy at very low power. That should be about 950-1020 fps with a 72 grain bullet. Beyond that you will scatter your groups.
My favorite bullet molds in order of accuracy and preference:
Arsenal 257420 or 257420 with Boat Tail
Noe 258-75-FN-BQ6 4 Cavity RG4 BT - With hollow point I got the best 100 yard groups with this bullet.
Arsenal 257388 85 Grain Spitzer Bullet - is promising but so far I have not found it's sweet spot.
Heavier bullets are just going to disappoint. the 257420 or Noe 258-75-FN-BQ6 will go in one side of a big turkey and out the other. You can hear the impact.
Size your bullets accordingly to the bore.
I cast with pure lead when possible. If I have trouble getting the mold to fill out I will add a button of tin to the pot.
In conclusion:
1. clean barrel - keep it clean.
2. lube your bullets.
3. Size your bullets
4. Optional is to powder coat, size and then lube bullets. I do this religiously.
Upvote 0
Not the same as the Seneca at all. I pour my own 257420 BT. Takes a little practice but when you mess up, just remelt them.
Upvote 0
I have a Texan 257 with a custom 1:14 TJ barrel. These have done very well.
Nice setup. I see you just listed it for sale in classifieds.
Upvote 0
Good morning! Yes sir I did! Great rifle and bullets but I really enjoy casting for and shooting my Texan 457 CF TX2. I’m looking to get a 457 carbine CF TX2 as a backup primarily since I already cast for it.
Upvote 0
You can't go wrong with aersonal molds. Check out castbullits.com. They have any info on casting and equipment than you will ever want. Check out Elvis ammo on YouTube he is my favorite source of casting and powder coating in bulk. Good luck on your journey friend
Upvote 0