New Revere

[elh0102]

I've decided to just remove my cylinder/shroud ring for a trial run. A couple of test targets yesterday showed identical accuracy, but I'll give it a longer test. If the shroud and cylinder are not touching, I really see no need in the ring. My Red Wolf has a nearly identical shroud design, and being a bottle gun, there is no similar support. If Daystate is set on using a barrel ring, I don't know why they don't do as Weihrauch, and embed some small rubber bumpers in the ring to damp any movement or noise. Well, I guess I do know, one is Daystate and one is Weihrauch! As with any single design feature, I'm sure its results will vary with individual rifles. 

 

[Rj]

I ran my Regal without the band the 2 years I owned it. I actually cut the top loop off the band and polished the bottom and put it back on the air tube as to not have the empty looking space. 

The barrel is plenty stiff and never had any poi shifts. 

 

[elh0102]

I ran my Regal without the band the 2 years I owned it. I actually cut the top loop off the band and polished the bottom and put it back on the air tube as to not have the empty looking space. 

The barrel is plenty stiff and never had any poi shifts.

I am using a large O ring for that purpose. It doesn't look as professional as I imagine yours looks, and it doesn't totally cover the gap. The dust cover pushes down a little lower, and needs to be moved forward a little to access the probe port. But, it serves the purpose. I've shot about 50 pellets with the band removed, and it seems unaffected. 

 

[elh0102]

I received a response from the US reseller, who stated the barrel is designed to be free floated, and his suggestion, either shim the shroud under the band, or just remove the band. Each rifle is different, but in my case, I think the better option is to remove the band. As I see it, the problem is the shroud, because you can't really monitor the barrel, which is hidden under there. The shroud could be in a bind, and yet the barrel still freely floating. And conversely, the shroud could appear free of any pressure, yet the barrel may not be. If someone wanted to invest the time, I think the best option is to remove the shroud and the band, and attach a press-on adapter to the muzzle for the silencer (you don't want to thread it). But, useless as it may be, the shroud Is a marketing point for them, and marketing usually trumps engineering (maybe not in Germany).

 

[Twinkees_n_Pb]

I still don't believe it.. why one (of the samw) is flawless and another requires the consumer to work on or fix it (depending how you see it, lol)... having after paid a premium price. $300 item, alright is what it is; ~1400, cmon now.

 

[elh0102]

This is my current fix, working well so far.

 

[Rj]

That will work sir. Does the shroud to air tube have an even gap front to back?

 

[elh0102]

That will work sir. Does the shroud to air tube have an even gap front to back?

Not totally, and it's very close, about .010" in the rear and .008" in front. But, best I can tell, the shroud and air cylinder never touch in the process of shooting. When using a shooting stick or bag rest, I always use the forend and not the cylinder, to avoid any additional pressure that could cause contact.

 

[Beanland]

I actually like the way it looks with the band off. I wish mine wouldn’t touch and rattle when shooting. 

 

[elh0102]

Someone asked about the silencer. It is a Hogan, made in England and purchased from Krale. It may be the best one I've ever used. My only complaint, it comes in high gloss black, which I don't like. I sanded it down and painted it flat black, don't know about durability of the paint, but it's easy to repaint. 

 

[vmaxpro]

Im suprised they dont make it a little bigger and use an id oring on it like air arms does? It seems to work pretty well.

 

[elh0102]

Im suprised they dont make it a little bigger and use an id oring on it like air arms does? It seems to work pretty well.

Yes, there are several things they could do to improve it. As it is, if the alignment is good, and mine was, then there is no contact with the shroud. That means it's providing no support, and will rattle if bumped. No other PCP rifle I own has such a contraption, and they shoot great. If support is needed, then make it supportive, as Beanland did to his. The only rifle I own that has forward support is the Taipan Veteran, which must be the king of support. Not only does the barrel screw into the receiver, but it's held in the scope tower bracket by 12 machine screws! You could run over it without moving the barrel. But regarding the Revere, I'm convinced the band serves no useful purpose. But my wife says I'm always wrong.

 

[Rj]

That will work sir. Does the shroud to air tube have an even gap front to back?

Not totally, and it's very close, about .010" in the rear and .008" in front. But, best I can tell, the shroud and air cylinder never touch in the process of shooting. When using a shooting stick or bag rest, I always use the forend and not the cylinder, to avoid any additional pressure that could cause contact.

Reason for asking is most times it can be corrected some if its off. Back when the Regal XL came out, some had band rattle worse than others. 

You can tilt the barrel up or down a smidge in the receiver by the tightening sequence of the barrel screws. 

If it were hanging too low out front. Tighten the front bottom screws first. Then move to the top rear screws. This would cant the barrel up some.

 

[Beanland]

I need to try that with the barrel screws. Mine actually touches the air tube. Thank you. 

 

[kenfoerst]

Glad to see this post on the Revere. I received my .22 cal. left hand version about two weeks ago. When I pulled it out of the box the first thing that I noticed was the rattle. Didn’t take long to figure out it was coming from the barrel band. Initially I was disappointed that Daystate would put out an expensive rifle with such a rattle. After reading some of the various forums I realized that this was not uncommon. The fix that I employed was to pull off the barrel band and wrap one full turn of electrical tape around the barrel cut the exact width of the band and reinstall the band over it. It was a tight fit but eliminated the rattle. I have since checked the accuracy and it seems to have no adverse effect. If anything it is better. In fact the accuracy has been stellar with the 16 grain Air Arms. As a side note I checked my shot string today and found that I was getting 41 shots from a 250 bar fill with a spread between 883 and 898. I believe this equates to an average of 890 FPS and a standard deviation of 3. My regulator is showing a set pressure of 160. I thought it was supposed to be 150 but maybe the gauge is not that accurate. I am curious what others are getting for shot count and velocity with their .22 caliber Revere. 

 

[elh0102]

I haven't checked my shot count, but that sounds about right. My reg indicates a 150 set point. The electrical tape fix should work, I just prefer to have the shroud free of all pressure. 

 

[elh0102]

I experimented with placing a small piece of rubber inner tube material between the cylinder and shroud, with band removed. This is essentially how AA sets up their S500 HFT rifle, using a rubber bumper under a free floated barrel. Of course, it doesn't use a shroud, which is the better way to go. I found the rifle shot about as well, but, just that small pressure moved the POI 4 minutes. So I removed it, left the band off, and it returned to tbe previous POI, still shooting one hole at 25 yards. So, for my specific rifle, I'm better off with the band removed, and the shroud left free floated. Some day when I'm feeling energetic, I'll experiment with removing the shroud, and attaching the silencer directly to the barrel.

 

[kenfoerst]

After a bit more tinkering, I have come to the conclusion that in my case the rattle stems from the fit of the air tube into the stock. What I believe is happening is that the for-end of the stock is moving and bumping the air tube. This causes the barrel band to move and contact the barrel which is free floated inside the barrel band with a very small tolerance. It only takes a minor movement to create the metalic sound. In my case the noise occurred any time that I put my hand on the stock for-end with even the slightest upward force. In my case I solved this problem by placing a small stick-on velcro pad in the channel of the stock about midway between the action and the end of the stock. I believe that this prevent the the for-end of the stock from moving and causing contact with the air tube. I am not sure how this rifle is designed and if the air tube is suppose to be free floated in the stock. From my observation, It appears that there is contact with the air-tube at least near the receiver. A slight warpage or imperfect milling of the stock fit could have caused the issue with the rattle and may be the reason some people experience the problem and some don't.

 

[Twinkees_n_Pb]

To @kenfoerst comment... overall I don't know if perhaps in these new/recent batches of Reveres, Daystate is using a different air tube than ones in the recent past, however this was one thing I found different between the Revere I return (due to this and other minor QC issues) vs my good one in this picture.

At the end of the tube (again my older, problem free Revere, in this pic) there is a slight bevel at where it then touches the band. On the one I returned, its ends at almost a 90degree angle. Again no idea if it is a contributing factor other than the difference I noticed. 

 

[Twinkees_n_Pb]

 ( @beanland hope you don't mind my zooming in on your posted pic to point out my observation since I didn't take a pic of one I sent back. )

One I returned recently looked exactly like this ... vs my problem free Revere.