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New HP test for full power pcp's in. .22

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knifemaker

knifemaker

Member
Feb 16, 2017
1,040
31
Texas, United States
 I was able to test the Raptor modded cc1 as well I gave it the same treatment. It is going to be a very effective varmint round, however, it would ruin far too much meat for a hunting round so treated.
I again shot a 1 gal. water jug, this time at 50 yards and it just simply blew up. Both the jug and the slug. LOL! Still deadly accurate! And to think this is with 2% tin. Not pure lead. Woo-Hoo!!!


As you can see, the bullet acts much like a typical varmint PB slug with the treatment. I think Scott got it right, The "Shredder". Can't use predator as it is already taken. 'Would have been nice Jason!


Seems with such an explosive slug, down range worries will be lessened. A Good Thing. 
wink.gif
 


Seems that only the gas check base and lower driving band are still intact. Original weight was 35 grs. Base is now 17.2 grs. So 50% weight loss, an what remains is not going far as the bc is destroyed.
grin.gif
 


Mike

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OK, here's the skinny.


1. Using a very thin, sharp box cutter or even thinner window decal scraper blade, press down to the very bottom of the cavity. A large, deep HP helps here a "Lot".


This will give a very wide nose. Much wider than cal.


2. Using a finely finished cone, near the shape of the original slug, press it in and tap it lightly to close the vanes. This gives a good, original shaped nose for good BC and keep accuracy the same as before the mod. Especially the poi.


3. Now size as you normally would. Finished!


For a very large expansion in hp long guns, rather than the blade, or phillips head, For the .25o and .257's I use a # T-15 Torque bit with the nose perfectly flattened on a fine diamond hone. This gives very fine serrations in the hp and causes it to open in a multi petal HP. Very reliable and repeatable. Once again, I place the bit in the mill, or drill press with the depth stop set for a given hp depth.

All of these are done by hand, not with the mill quill. So not as precise. 


I am making a ram with blade to fit my mill so that each cut will be precision in both depth and location. WOO-HOO!


Sadly, the card in my Sony, just went down. I can't get the old pic's out and it is full. Double GRRR!!!
I'm almost to the point of using a strong magnet to erase the darned thing if that is even possible. Update! Fixed the card! Yeah!😁

DSC02685.1610528830.JPG
DSC02686.1610528850.JPG
DSC02687.1610528863.JPG
DSC02687.1610528877.JPG
DSC02688.1610528889.JPG



Knife/Mike
 
Upvote 0
OK, here's the skinny.


1. Using a very thin, sharp box cutter or even thinner window decal scraper blade, press down to the very bottom of the cavity. A large, deep HP helps here a "Lot".


This will give a very wide nose. Much wider than cal.


2. Using a finely finished cone, near the shape of the original slug, press it in and tap it lightly to close the vanes. This gives a good, original shaped nose for good BC and keep accuracy the same as before the mod. Especially the poi.


3. Now size as you normally would. Finished!


For a very large expansion in hp long guns, rather than the blade, or phillips head, For the .25o and .257's I use a # T-15 Torque bit with the nose perfectly flattened on a fine diamond hone. This gives very fine serrations in the hp and causes it to open in a multi petal HP. Very reliable and repeatable. Once again, I place the bit in the mill, or drill press with the depth stop set for a given hp depth.

All of these are done by hand, not with the mill quill. So not as precise. 


I am making a ram with blade to fit my mill so that each cut will be precision in both depth and location. WOO-HOO!


Sadly, the card in my Sony, just went down. I can't get the old pic's out and it is full. Double GRRR!!!
I'm almost to the point of using a strong magnet to erase the darned thing if that is even possible. Update! Fixed the card! Yeah!
1f601.svg


DSC02685.1610528830.JPG
DSC02686.1610528850.JPG
DSC02687.1610528863.JPG
DSC02687.1610528877.JPG
DSC02688.1610528889.JPG



Knife/Mike
Click to expand...

Those a some nice looking castings Mike. I wish mine to come out of the mold that good, but they aren't even close! I did some experiments last year with this same box cutter technique and with good results using NSA .357 142 HP-BT slugs by also closing the petals back down to the original ogive shape as well. What I found was the they fly accurately just like the original swaged slug, but when shooting the big slug (hitting at 900 FPS) the 4 petals fragmented off in the ballistic gel starting about 6" in. Going with three petals allowed them to stay attached for the most part though I wasn't happy with my results due to the shallow hollow point. Some petals would still detach too. I imagine that if I deepened the hollow point base and turned down the power, running a FPS more in line with the pistol speeds like you are preparing them for, that the four petal design would be the way to go. I'm glad to see that this experiment is working out well for your application.
 
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Thank you Sir, 

I have designed slugs for vermin that are explosive that loos the petals, Hunting that do not, and larger game that simply mushroom in a controlled way. Here is what I posted on my home form earlier after last evenings shooting. 

Knife

I shot a 1 gal water jug yesterday at 80 yards with the heavier 35 gr. slug out of the Raptor in the 930's and it blew the jug all the heck up. Only the base and two semi pellets were left of the slug. Man, it is gonna be a fantastic pest round. 


The typically plastic milk container was left in ruins. Woo-Hoo!!!


Added bonus, with hp only without slits or further mods gives a nice mushroom, or with the aforementioned # T-15 sharpened bit pressed in it gives an even larger mushroom in expansion.


So one slug can now be deep penetration, two different mushroom profiles for meat game, or explosive for vermin. All are accurate, all are easily doable.


Seems like a huge Win-Win to me.
wink.gif
Lov'n Every Minute of it. LOL


Knife/Mike
 
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