Just checking in here. I said a general hello over in the general discussions but thought I'd get over here where this belongs. Retired last Sept. Thought I'd get myself la nice retirement gift. Which ended in me now being the proud owner of a Gauntler 2 in .25 cal. Tasco World Class 4-12×, and a Harris bipod. I also bought a Vevor pump to get started. Have not even set zero on it yet. Which brings me to the question. What is the preferred zero distance for this kind of setup?
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New guy
- Thread starter Satchel
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Hello and welcome. I like to use the American Airguns Trajectory Calculator, Very simple and straight, forward plug in your numbers and you can find the right zero for you. Example if you are only shooting at 10 yd set the zero for 10 yds but if you plan on using it from lets say 20 to 50 yds play with the numbers( zeroing distance ) and see what give you the flattest trajectory ( is it a 17, 18, 20, 23, 30 yd etc zero?) I hope this helps and enjoy your new gun these new pcps are amazing Eric
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my opinion, it all depends on what your max distance will be...
i mostly shoot crows up to 100yrds, so i set my zero @ 35yrds.
this way not much difference at 20yrd pests and a small hold over for 100.
my gun is shooting around 976fps accurately !!
i mostly shoot crows up to 100yrds, so i set my zero @ 35yrds.
this way not much difference at 20yrd pests and a small hold over for 100.
my gun is shooting around 976fps accurately !!
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Once you get used to the gun and know you like it, you might want to get yourself a Milldot scope.I had a Tasco World class on a 270 that my uncle gave me and worked pretty good for deer hunting. I ended up selling the 270 and bought a 30/06 and put it on that gun.And when I went to the shooting range I couldn’t get the scope to zero At first. I had to click it a ridiculous amount to get it to move just 2 inches.(didn’t have that problem with the first gun )But once I finally did get it zeroed in, it stayed there.But my point is for shooting at different distances and it being a 25 caliber pellet gun, you would be able to judge your hold much better.You could get a Hawke Scope for around $125. They are decent scopes for the price.
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Welcome, New Guy!
Do you have a chronograph?
If so, what are your numbers?
Also, what will you be shooting at and what distances?
Congrats all the way around.
Do you have a chronograph?
If so, what are your numbers?
Also, what will you be shooting at and what distances?
Congrats all the way around.
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Welcome!!!
This is an excellent never ending hobby !!!
We only hope we can continue shooting in heaven !!!
This is an excellent never ending hobby !!!
We only hope we can continue shooting in heaven !!!
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Welcome to the rabbit hole! ;-)
I just bought a Gauntlet 2 in .22
Unfortunately I had to send it back because it was a leaker.
It's replacement will be here Thursday.
I just bought a Gauntlet 2 in .22
Unfortunately I had to send it back because it was a leaker.
It's replacement will be here Thursday.
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For your new acquisition here you can have all kind of feedback from very experienced people that will avoid you to spend money and time erroneously.
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as mentioned zero will depend what you do with it ... many schools of thought .. airgunning has taught me alot about trajectory, and since about 90% of my shooting is pesting at widely varying ranges i need it to hit a pest sized kill zone of about 1" square with a dead on hold within the longest range .. this takes a ballistics program to do the most accurately, but ive found most full power airguns wind up witha 17-21y zero .. surprisingly to me when i fist got into it theres actually two zeros, theyre the same zero at opposing ends of the trajectory, its usually 45ish yards at the other end ..
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Welcome, and when you’ve recovered from you’re initial purchase for your retirement gift, set your sights on a chronograph and a cleaning kit for your barrel.
It’s important to know your speeds, the energy your ammo delivers at certain distances, and just knowing the velocity, period, as it helps in any troubleshooting such as leaks, faulty regulator, hammer sticking, etc.
Think of the chronograph not as a luxury, but as a tool that compliments your new PCP, and allows you to get the most out of your investment.
Congratulations on your retirement, also
It’s important to know your speeds, the energy your ammo delivers at certain distances, and just knowing the velocity, period, as it helps in any troubleshooting such as leaks, faulty regulator, hammer sticking, etc.
Think of the chronograph not as a luxury, but as a tool that compliments your new PCP, and allows you to get the most out of your investment.
Congratulations on your retirement, also
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Hi new guy, welcome to the forum!!! Congrats on retirement and the new pew pew!!! If your new to pcp guns you’re going to love them. My springers miss me and I thought they were the cats meow until my airgun buddy introduced me to the world of pcp’s! They are amazing!
So to answer your questions on zeroing distance, near zero and far zero you will want to find the velocity of your gun and the distance from the center of your objective lens on your scope to the bore of your rifle. Then plug these numbers into a ballistic calculator. You WILL need a chronograph. That’s a hands down. I went with a Caldwell with the light strip on top. Many like the fx chrony however at the time I wanted to save a couple bucks and I don’t regret it one bit. Do note with a chrony that uses optical sensors fluorescent lights can and will mess with it. The light strips help a lot but when I tune a gun in my basement I only leave the incandescent lights on. Step two find the distance of the center of the scope to your bore. Measure the od of your barrel with a caliper and divide that by 2 and write down the number. Measure the “bell” (the large section around the front objective lens) of the scope and divide by 2 write down the number be as accurate as possible. Again with calipers measure the distance from the bottom of the “bell” to the outside of the barrel and write that down too(do not divide the distance from the scope bell to the barrel by anything). Add up the three numbers and you have the distance from the center of the bore to the center of your scope.
The website with the calculator I used is:
https://shooterscalculator.com/point-blank-range.php?df=G1&bc=0.035&vi=915&sh=2&ts=0.25&cfa=on&alt=490&tmp=59&bar=29.92&hum=50
This will give you the near and far zero, sight in at the far zero.
Nowadays I use the StrelokPro app on my phone. After learning a tiny bit (a fraction really) I find the app to be indispensable. Wither you range by the parallax knob, with a rangefinder, or best guess it’s great to be able to put the range in and have the app calculate the moa, mil, or number of clicks you need to adjust the scope to be dead on.
My buddy Rob has many more years trigger time than me and just knows what amount to hold over or under when shooting. I’m not there yet so I use the ballistic calculator.
You may eventually want to look into a cheap compressor to save yourself a workout with the hand pump. It didn’t take me long to to start reading threads on the yong heng air compressor. Then came the air bottle. I didn’t buy everything all at once, just kinda one at a time as the money became available. The chronograph should be your next purchase. It is indispensable as a first tool.
There’s also a section on the forum to print out free targets. I think Michael uploaded like a few hundred printable pdf’s and other have some cool ones as well like the ten dimes challenge.
Again welcome to the forum and the hobby/sport. Stay sharp stay well sir!!
-icy
So to answer your questions on zeroing distance, near zero and far zero you will want to find the velocity of your gun and the distance from the center of your objective lens on your scope to the bore of your rifle. Then plug these numbers into a ballistic calculator. You WILL need a chronograph. That’s a hands down. I went with a Caldwell with the light strip on top. Many like the fx chrony however at the time I wanted to save a couple bucks and I don’t regret it one bit. Do note with a chrony that uses optical sensors fluorescent lights can and will mess with it. The light strips help a lot but when I tune a gun in my basement I only leave the incandescent lights on. Step two find the distance of the center of the scope to your bore. Measure the od of your barrel with a caliper and divide that by 2 and write down the number. Measure the “bell” (the large section around the front objective lens) of the scope and divide by 2 write down the number be as accurate as possible. Again with calipers measure the distance from the bottom of the “bell” to the outside of the barrel and write that down too(do not divide the distance from the scope bell to the barrel by anything). Add up the three numbers and you have the distance from the center of the bore to the center of your scope.
The website with the calculator I used is:
https://shooterscalculator.com/point-blank-range.php?df=G1&bc=0.035&vi=915&sh=2&ts=0.25&cfa=on&alt=490&tmp=59&bar=29.92&hum=50
This will give you the near and far zero, sight in at the far zero.
Nowadays I use the StrelokPro app on my phone. After learning a tiny bit (a fraction really) I find the app to be indispensable. Wither you range by the parallax knob, with a rangefinder, or best guess it’s great to be able to put the range in and have the app calculate the moa, mil, or number of clicks you need to adjust the scope to be dead on.
My buddy Rob has many more years trigger time than me and just knows what amount to hold over or under when shooting. I’m not there yet so I use the ballistic calculator.
You may eventually want to look into a cheap compressor to save yourself a workout with the hand pump. It didn’t take me long to to start reading threads on the yong heng air compressor. Then came the air bottle. I didn’t buy everything all at once, just kinda one at a time as the money became available. The chronograph should be your next purchase. It is indispensable as a first tool.
There’s also a section on the forum to print out free targets. I think Michael uploaded like a few hundred printable pdf’s and other have some cool ones as well like the ten dimes challenge.
Again welcome to the forum and the hobby/sport. Stay sharp stay well sir!!
-icy
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Welcome to another "old guy" diving into the money pit rabbit hole! Hope you enjoy the ride!
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Welcome to the rabbit hole Satchel, lots of great guys here and tons of knowledge also. I do more reading than posting now because I'm still working on my learning curve.
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I would say around 40 yards.i had that rifle in .25. Developed a leak and went back for a refund. I was not crazy about the effort required to cock it. Good luck with yours.
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Thank you, I will look for that tool. Seems like the stuff you'v got to know is there.. Thank myou.
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Matt247365,
I do have a chrono, I have not been able to get outside and do anything with it yet. Either to cold or too windy, or both!! I'm a fragile old feller, I can wait for good weather. I have done enough benchrest centerfire competitive shooting and load development that I am sure I'll come up with something, but then again air is a whole different thing than gunpowder. That's why I came over here and found this forum. I learned so much back in the old days from the Varmint Hunters forum. Anybody here remember those days?
I do have a chrono, I have not been able to get outside and do anything with it yet. Either to cold or too windy, or both!! I'm a fragile old feller, I can wait for good weather. I have done enough benchrest centerfire competitive shooting and load development that I am sure I'll come up with something, but then again air is a whole different thing than gunpowder. That's why I came over here and found this forum. I learned so much back in the old days from the Varmint Hunters forum. Anybody here remember those days?
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