New Eagle Vision GoPro 7 - 12mm lens

Max115

Member
Jul 15, 2018
1,543
1,014
BC, Canada
Upgraded the SideShot GoPro 7 lens to the Eagle Vision 12mm F1.8 lens.

What a difference in terms of clarity and recorded scope view. I purchased the 3.4mm back in 2019 when I first got my SideShot setup. Thanks to Hajimoto for the recommendation back then. I wished I had spent the extra money then and got this 12mm lens because it is so much better.

It took me a while to adjust the lens by screwing in and out to find the best focus position. But I finally got the focus as sharp as I could.

Hopefully now I can record better footages.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YpDhmjYlyE
 
@golfer. Thank you. I think it was just looking too long at the video editing and started to doubt what I see with my old eyes, lol. For sure the scope plays a role with the clarity, but for what it is, just shooting videos, it is good enough. As I am not producing big ticket, Oscar quality type movies, lol.

Maybe a Night Force scope in the near future? Still didn't want to part with my kidney, not yet, lol.

@healthservices. I suggest you get the 12mm and don't look back, lol. Don't be like me and ended up paying more money a couple of years later. Let me know how it turns out.
 
Pretty nice footage. The 1.8 is definitely a far superior lens if image quality and clarity is important to you. Not everyone has a photography background (I do), so many don't really perceive a significant difference between those two lenses, aside from the cost. Light almost always dictates the winner when comparing video in the scope-cam game. Every place you can increase light is an improvement in the final product. Both lenses can look much more similar when you have more light than you need, but when light is marginal (sun dipping into later afternoon or early evening), the better lens will always prevail.

Here's a link to a test video I did comparing clarity, sharpness, camera settings and post-processing results. You mentioned a Nightforce, and this shows what that level of glass is capable of:

Eagle Vision Go-Pro Side-Cam w/HERO7 - Focus and Image Settings Tests - Airgun Nation

And remember... you only really NEED one kidney.


 
It is not your scope. The image of the background will always be a bit blurry. I believe that is just how it is cause you are recording at a mirror. Not at the actual images through the scope. You can put a 10k dollar scope on, the image will be the same. Look at ted and mats video of them using the gopro side shot. It is also blurry a bit and not crisp and clear as seeing through the scope. 
 
Soft focus around the edges is common in lower quality lenses. This is because it cost a lot more to manufacture a lens that holds sharpness all the way to the edges, and the selling price has to justify the manufacturing costs. In professional camera lenses, edge sharpness is a sought after trait, and they are significantly more expensive than the consumer lenses. These little action camera lenses just can't command the price of exceptional focus edge-to-edge. I'm not trying to sound authoritative here, so please don't take this as gospel, but if I remember correctly, a wide-angle lens is easier to produce with a better apparent edge-to-edge sharpness. If I am remembering that right, then it makes sense that as we change out our original wide-angle GoPro lenses for longer focal length lenses in our scope-cams, the edge sharpness fall-off would be more noticeable.

As for what 2fast was saying... I both agree and disagree. The scope is going to produce an image of a given quality. That image was engineered to be viewed by the human eye through the fixed optics of that particular scope. When we add a scope-cam, we are adding multiple optical factors (a beam-splitter and a lens that both degrade the image and the amount of light passing to the final sensor). These elements were never part of the scope design, and this will almost always detract slightly from the original scope image quality.

I agree that changing the scope will not correct factors inherent to the scope-cam system that we added (light and focus fall-off toward the edges, beam-splitter, etc), but if you change scopes and that significantly changes, for better or worse, the starting image, you should see a similar change in the recording if the recording system is the same. I feel pretty confident that if you use the same scope-cam setup on a $250 scope and a $2000 scope, the recording from the scope that produces the better starting image is going to have the better recorded image, regardless of how much degradation the scope-cam introduces.

A scope-cam recording is actually the sum of two independent optical systems. Increase the quality of either or both of the two addends, and you will increase the quality of the sum. The reverse also applies.
 
Max115,

I have a Sideshot Firefly system I’m getting ready to set up, hopefully this weekend if I can get just one day when my world is not blowing up. If this system works with a GoPro with a modified lens, do you know if it will work with a 90° Firefly? Just curious. I’ve shot my budget for at least three years, but I come from a film and imaging background, so finding the clearest, most cost-effective solution awakens that money spending gene in my system too. God help me. 
 
20210116_152033.1610839279.jpg
Alex, I tell you my head is about to explode attempting to focus the retical. 🤯
 
20210116_165730.1610846937.jpg
20210116_163830.1610846938.jpg
Well after fighting with quite a bit, I am at least close. While fighting all this I started debating about just buying the $1200 gopro kit with the it all working, but I don't like spending money like that unnecessary. Its getting dark and video quality is going down dramatically so it is about time to call it a day. I got my adapter from Orion but I think it was made for the older style gopro. So a little additional work needed to be done to make things work.
 
Use a solid flat-field, like a white wall. Set your scope's variable diopter adjustment to it's mid-point.

Screw the lens in until it just has enough thread engagement that it won't fall out. Then check focus of the reticle only. Screw lens in 1/2 rotation and check focus again. Continue until the focus is the best. If it's not good enough yet, leave it there, then see if you can bring it in the rest of the way with the diopter adjustment.
 
Thanks Chuck, I ended not needing to adjust my diopter. I'm so blind I needed all that for me to see and shoot. Since my camera case and adapter was screwed in and camera was off center (made for a earlier model gopro) I detached the case from the mount and held it at the opening by hand after each adjustment. It made it easier to focus since it seemed no matter what I did it was not close to being focused. Fumbling with the case on was a mess. With it off it was easier but it still seemed like like hours for it to start coming in. once I got close enough I centered the clear case to the adapter by looking at the screen until I got what I thought was center. Added some super glue to the mounting point and waited for it to set. Check to see it was centered... dang it moved. Pried it off, sanded the surfaces and retried. Second time worked. I drilled some holes and screwed the case to the adapter. This will work for now and I will readjust as necessary. Thanks for the help. Hopefully tomorrow I can get a short clip.