New Diana 54 Air King Pro - Factory Lube

[bustachip]

will a non-petrol base grease detonate even if it looked like that
i use ULTIMOX 226 on my pistols, it is just Krytox and at low power levels of the pistols I'm very happy with the results
thank for the warning

The first time I did my 97K back in 2010ish, I used ultimox 226 and used way too much and it got in front of the piston seal. It didn't detonate or diesel, but there was a hint of a vapor or mist
from the lube being pushed through the TP...lol.
I would wipe it off the breech seal area with a q-tip. I later tore it back apart and cleaned it all out then relubed very sparingly. I've learned a lot since then. Today I only smear a thin thin coat around the piston seal, then work it in and out of the compression tube. I'll then take the piston back out and look to see if any lube is pushed to the front of the seal, if not, I'll put it back together. It really doesn't take much at all. And if a tiny amount does make it in front of the piston seal, it will be fine.

 

[bustachip]

I recently picked up a new Air King Pro in .22 caliber. As with all of my new air rifles, I tested it over the chronograph before beginning the tuning process. It was generating 37fpe

It was detonating and despite trying to shoot through it, it was in no way taming down. A quick disassembly revealed the source of the problem, EXCESSIVE Lube!! In the pictures below, you can see the amount of lube that was applied at the factory. I also attached pictures showing the piston and comp tube after it was cleaned up

Before

View attachment 372754View attachment 372755View attachment 372756


After


View attachment 372758View attachment 372759

For anyone who might be purchasing a new Diana in the near future, do not continue shooting it if it continues to detonate and produce excessive energy levels. On any new springer it is normal to have a few high velocity shots like this out of the box, but they should quickly settle down. In this case it was not settling down, and continued shooting would not have been good for the gun. I just wanted to get this out there as a safety awareness.

Steve

My new Prosport looked similar to what you found in your Diana, but not near as much in front of the piston seal as yours. Looked like they used a grease gun through the TP on yours after it was assembled..lol.

 

[beerthief]

How far do you live from Burt, Iowa? Drive to Flying Dragon, M-F 0900-1200, Mike's probably there. Just look for the stretch limo from a funeral home parked out front on Main St.

12 hours drive , but i am retired

 

[mossyoakpenn]

Wait, a $725 gun that needs to be disassembled by the user after purchase to make it work right? Not just no, but heck no!!! Puts the purchaser and where they bought it from in a bad spot. Nothing wrong with knowing how to work on your gun eventually but not right away…

 

[JP806TX]

I have about 0 mechanical skills. But as Cjtamu mentioned , there are u tubes on how to take these guns apart , fix problems and reassemble . I believe Cjtamu actually helped me a while back with all the problems I was having with my new Diana 54. Hector Medina has been absolutely invaluable in correcting the problems with my gun. I have a TX 200 , Pro Sport , WH97 , Beeman R9 and the Diana 54 which I’ve taken apart 3 times now. I’ve taken them all apart. The worst one that kept me up at night was installing a PG 4 Vortek kit in the HW 97. The black cap has to be screwed on and off in order to get the trigger and spring out. Taking it of ,no problem but screwing in back on while in my homemade compressor and under pressure was a real worry as I was afraid of cross threading the threads. But you learn as you go, take lots of pictures and have a very clean work space. If I can do it, anyone can.

I've also taken my HW97 apart. You do have to be careful threading that end cap back on.

Here's.a trick a friend of mine told me to prevent cross threading....without the set up under pressure (spring taken out), rotate the end cap counter clockwise slowly against the receiver tube. Eventually, you'll feel a click and that's the start of the thread. Now you have to figure out a way to witness mark that spot on the tube and the end cap. Whiteout is my method as you can use alcohol to wipe it off.

Now when you go to thread in your end cap (in your spring compressor), you know exactly where to go slow to engage the thread.

This is assuming the threads were never messed up (cross threaded before).

 

[uglymike]

12 hours drive , but i am retired

Call him and tell him you're coming, he'll be delighted!